Recolour (fake) stained glass ?

[-alan-]

The front door of our house and two similarly sized wooden panels either side of it have some kind of imitation stained-glass panels in it.

The floral motif in the middle was red with a blue centre when we moved in 20 years ago, but the red has all bit disappeared. The other colours seem to have weathered slightly better. The 'lead' bits are stuck on, rather than integral frames, and the coloured bits look like they were originally either painted, or coated in a plastic film (which was done well enough so that I can't find the edges).

I'm about to paint the front door, and would like to refresh the red colour in the pattern. Was wondering if anybody as ever done something similar with some kind of paint on glass ?

If so - what kind of paint should a chap use, and is there a need to apply some kind of sealer or other protective treatment to make it last ?

 

[Vinny]

If you want a decent job, you need advice from an expert - someone who works in glass. Weirdly enough I know distantly two people who make a partial living from doing just that, including teaching, but not well enough to pass on contact details, but have a look here as this could be found by chance, and maybe use the contact for help? Amazing stuff on her website to admire anyway, although she seems to have dramatically cut what she lists - try a search for her one-off bowls.

https://kjglass.co.uk/

 

[Big Tabs]

There is paint available to put colour on to glass, not used any for a long time.

Buy some, then practice on a bit of spare glass.

As I remember, technique is important as brush strokes can be easily visible if done poorly.

I would be tempted to take the door off and do it with the door horizontal, any dripping will look awful.

 

[-alan-]

Thanks chaps.

I think I'll have a practice with some acrylic paint I found here on a similar piece of glass I have in the shed - and see whether I need to cough up for the more specialised stuff you mention. Quite curious to see what kind of results you can get now

 

[Big Tabs]

Thanks chaps.

I think I'll have a practice with some acrylic paint I found here on a similar piece of glass I have in the shed - and see whether I need to cough up for the more specialised stuff you mention. Quite curious to see what kind of results you can get now

And with acrylic paint you can water it down as well.

 

[-alan-]

Didn't know that - thanks BT. I'll add that to the test programme.

 

[awkwardbydesign]

If you intend to use glass paint, the glass needs to be laid flat. Red is always the colour that goes first (look at old pictures and posters).
When I was doing it 20-30 years ago for a glass company, solvent based paint was the best (cellulose thinners). The lead could be Decralead or Permalead. I would try to remove the old paint with thinners, but if that won't touch it, and it's smooth enough, just go over the top with the new colour. It should flow out to the edges and be held in by the lead. Dust is your enemy, so place a cover over it when you have painted it.
The other possibility is that it is coloured film, with the lead hiding the cut edges. I used to do both types (plus real leaded lights; technically it is only stained glass if it is painted and fired in a kiln, BTW), and with glass paints it was more usual to use "liquid lead", a type of grey PVA in a squeezy bottle rather than stick-on lead.
Like this;

 

[awkwardbydesign]

BTW, alan, if that door panel is a double glazed unit, I would expect the colour to be film. Flat glass on the piece that has the leading applied?

 

[cooky1257]

Be sure to completely clean the glass(use thinners) before you paint do not use thinners on acrylic!

 

[-alan-]

Will do.

BTW, alan, if that door panel is a double glazed unit, I would expect the colour to be film. Flat glass on the piece that has the leading applied?

Had a closer look there. It's single glazed, but is actually a coloured film.

Tried scraping the edge a bit, and it does tear/come away, but not easily. Is there an easier way to remove it do you think ?

 

[Graham B]

I’ve had success in the past using coloured glass paints. You can get them from art supplies shops or craft / hobby stores. As others have said, do practice first with brushes, number of coats etc. It can be tricky but if you get it right the end result can be really good. I agree you’ll probably need the door horizontal.

 

[awkwardbydesign]

Will do.



Had a closer look there. It's single glazed, but is actually a coloured film.

Tried scraping the edge a bit, and it does tear/come away, but not easily. Is there an easier way to remove it do you think ?

You could run a craft knife all round each piece and then peel it off, but replacing the film would need the lead removing and then replacing. Personally I would lay it down and flow paint into each space as I suggested earlier. If you are lucky the paint won't react with the film. If it does, then remove the film and try again. Trying to do it vertically is not something I would like to do.

 

[Vinny]

The only logical choice for a film that would have the archival qualities that this would require, would be polyester (PETP). The chances of the colour being within the film (i.e. the PETP being extruded as a coloured film) are so close to zero as makes no difference. It is extremely highly likely that the film would be coated and the dyes applied to the surface. That being so, the dyes are going to be soluble in a common industrial solvent, probably acetone. Cellulose thinners in particular are very, very close to acetone in terms of solvent capabilities.

To get a really dense colour, the film would probably have been coated both sides, but it may be just one - a TINY shaving using something like a scalpel or razor blade, from somewhere very inconspicuous on the outer surface should tell you - pick a dark colour to sample.

In short - think carefully before doing anything, and go VERY carefully if you decide to try to renovate it.

 

[-alan-]

I knew this would be the right place to ask.. Thanks to everybody for their input

The only logical choice for a film that would have the archival qualities that this would require, would be polyester (PETP). The chances of the colour being within the film (i.e. the PETP being extruded as a coloured film) are so close to zero as makes no difference. It is extremely highly likely that the film would be coated and the dyes applied to the surface. That being so, the dyes are going to be soluble in a common industrial solvent, probably acetone. Cellulose thinners in particular are very, very close to acetone in terms of solvent capabilities.

To get a really dense colour, the film would probably have been coated both sides, but it may be just one - a TINY shaving using something like a scalpel or razor blade, from somewhere very inconspicuous on the outer surface should tell you - pick a dark colour to sample.

In short - think carefully before doing anything, and go VERY carefully if you decide to try to renovate it.

The film does seem to be mounted below the lead borders. Rather then remove it, I'd be tempted to try to recolour it first.

Vinny - given that it's most likely a dyed plastic, would the acrylic paints suggested above be likely to bond to the surface properly, or would you recommend trying some other paint or dye altogether ?

 

[Vinny]

.....given that it's most likely a dyed plastic, would the acrylic paints suggested above be likely to bond to the surface properly, or would you recommend trying some other paint or dye altogether ?

Sadly, all but impossible to predict. Not least, I am making no better than an educated guess that base film is PETP.

If you are painting onto bare PETP, not much will stick that you could get as a paint binder, not long term - months would be a good result.
Painting onto anything else, if I knew what it was, I could make an educated guess. If painting onto the dyed side, there is a fighting chance that the coating that is holding the dye, would be a cellulose ester (for what its worth, probably cellulose acetate propionate - a very common polymer for carrying coloured coatings). If you assumed that, a cellulose paint would be a good bet, if they exist, but beware that the solvent would attack the coating.

My best advice remains, think carefully, go VERY slowly if you have a go - even try one carefully applied "spot" in an inconspicuous area, just 3-4mm across, first, and leave that for a week or more to see what happens and be aware that you should be looking for signs of attack of the film by the paint.