divedeepdog
pfm Member
My mates dream was to put Aro on his 1210. My ‘addiction’ provided us with Nima, Hadcock and an Aro to try across a few decks. He ended up with Tabriz on it
I like the Aro, I think it's great at what it does and unipivots are better at that thing than anything else I know of. But they're a bit 'one trick ' and I would want one myself. Always think they're nice when I hear them but not rounded enough for me.My mates dream was to put Aro on his 1210. My ‘addiction’ provided us with Nima, Hadcock and an Aro to try across a few decks. He ended up with Tabriz on it
Thanks Craig for this. I was thinking along these lines but nice to get confirmation of what could work. I will probably have a stab at this over the weekend if i get an hour or 6 !If you have the VM540ML already, you could measure the distance between stylus tip and an imaginary perpendicular line that runs through the centres of the cartridge mounting holes. The difference between this number and 7mm will be what is added to effective length in order for the calculator to return an accurate pivot to spindle distance within the confines of Loefgren 'A'.
Not sure yet, tbh thats the least of my issues at the moment. Getting the arm on the deck and aligned properly will be my goal ! If this works then i am sure i can fashion something to hold the arm. But don't worry, i will post either my success, or not, here.How are you planning to deal with the "resting" position of the ARO on the 1210?
Looking at Naim's 'Arm General Assembly' drawing for ARO, it doesn't look like it would be too difficult to knock up a custom fit clone of Naim's armrest. The drawing doesn't give the dimensions of this part, however, it appears to be little more than a stout metal tube with a stainless rod glued into a cross drilled hole using Loctite 405 adhesive. Naim's original pillar part has a threaded socket at the bottom such that this can be bolted up from below Linn's armboard with a panhead screw. I wouldn't recommend pulling a Technics plinth apart to facilitate this attachment method, perhaps a tiny circle of 3M Command Adhesive strip instead, made using an office hole punch, for example. Even without the adhesive strip removal pull tab present these can be twisted off without damage to most finished surfaces (especially so, when the area of attachment is so small). Regardless, once one settles upon an ideal arm height it wouldn't be difficult to come up with pillar height and outrigger length, the latter based upon final position such that the outrigger arm doesn't allow the tonearm to fall before it reaches record.Please share your experience. I have a couple of idle AROs and would love to mount one on one of my Technics 1210s so I'd appreciate knowing if it will be worth the fuss. How are you planning to deal with the "resting" position of the ARO on the 1210?
The VM540ML manual states that distance is 9.6mm.If you have the VM540ML already, you could measure the distance between stylus tip and an imaginary perpendicular line that runs through the centres of the cartridge mounting holes.
Really i couldn't find it. Thats great thanksThe VM540ML manual states that distance is 9.6mm.
Thanks Craig. That's useful info although I am pretty hopeless and not sure I can do this on my own.Looking at Naim's 'Arm General Assembly' drawing for ARO, it doesn't look like it would be too difficult to knock up a custom fit clone of Naim's armrest. The drawing doesn't give the dimensions of this part, however, it appears to be little more than a stout metal tube with a stainless rod glued into a cross drilled hole using Loctite 405 adhesive. Naim's original pillar part has a threaded socket at the bottom such that this can be bolted up from below Linn's armboard with a panhead screw. I wouldn't recommend pulling a Technics plinth apart to facilitate this attachment method, perhaps a tiny circle of 3M Command Adhesive strip instead, made using an office hole punch, for example. Even without the adhesive strip removal pull tab present these can be twisted off without damage to most finished surfaces (especially so, when the area of attachment is so small). Regardless, once one settles upon an ideal arm height it wouldn't be difficult to come up with pillar height and outrigger length, the latter based upon final position such that the outrigger arm doesn't allow the tonearm to fall before it reaches record.
I was just planning on using something like a command strip, cut up into a smaller slice and see if it holds the armrest, then again i am not planning on keeping the Aro on my deck long term - unless it blows me away!That's useful info although I am pretty hopeless and not sure I can do this on my own.
As long as the TT centre spindle to the arm bearing pivot is the correct distance, you can place the armboard wherever you like.My other question, which has always confused me is: does it matter how far i move the arm board round in terms of arm mounting angle. Eg: if the board is at 1pm and i move it to say 2pm, will this affect things like the offset angle in terms of alignment, even if the spindle to pivot is now correct ?
Ok thats good to know.. Cheers.As long as the TT centre spindle to the arm bearing pivot is the correct distance, you can place the armboard wherever you like.
Please let us know how it sounds. Pictures would be welcomed too.
OK the VTA adjustment of the ARO isn’t sufficient, so the arm is too low at the head-shell end? You can buy cartridge spacers though, to make the cartridge “taller”.Anyhow, once i set this up i realised there is another issue in that i can't get the VTA to go low enough to get the arm level, so a new thinner armboard will need to be cut. But for now i decided i just needed to listen if the cartridge and alignment had worked.
This will need more than spacers to bring the VTA down. I may just recut a new armboard which is thinner and gives me more room to adjust it.OK the VTA adjustment of the ARO isn’t sufficient, so the arm is too low at the head-shell end? You can buy cartridge spacers though, to make the cartridge “taller”.
I had a protractor ready but didn't use it as i just wanted to listen quickly to check and hear if there were any major issues with my install. To my suprise not only were there no issues but no mistracking at all. In brief, if it sounds good then it is good ! (i used older records for this to test) Once i have recut an armboard i will double check everything.Also, it’s not clear if you aligned the cartridge using a protractor, or just assumed it would be correct, because of the spindle-pivot distance. There’s probably quite a bit of wriggle room though, to adjust the tracking angle. Using a cheap USB camera makes that process easy.