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Nima lead replacement for LP12

1964meb

1964meb

pfm Member
Hi People

I replaced my Nima lead incorrectly some years back and have not got around to sorting it out. The lead purchased and installed cant be 'dressed' properly as it has a big lumpy bit in the wrong place!!!

Can anyone recommend a replacement Nima lead that can be secured correctly inside my LP12? I was thinking (hoping) for about £100

I'm not adverse to buying S/H from a fish or dealer

Many thanks in advance

Mike
 
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I remember that.

Suggest ordering an original replacement lead from Roksan via one of their dealers; reasons being, I have a feeling that an angled plug may not point in the right direction and, what with many cables tending to be a bit thick/stiff, directing such toward the P-clip without undo strain on the suspension can be a pain.

That 400-odd quid HDC 03 that you were considering previously is billed as an 'upgrade' on their site. Not to be confused with the original part.
 
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Hi Craig B

Many thanks

Are the 'original parts' still available??? (£400 is a lot for a lead for that arm IMO)

Mike
 
The Roksan cable uses what look to be tonearm internal leads between the plug and the cable that leads out of the turntable. That presents essentially no load to the turntable suspension.

Making a look-alike for the Roksan unit is very simple and potentially very cheap. - maybe £40 using Cardas tonearm wire and Profi plugs.
 
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Vinny said:
The Roksan cable uses what look to be tonearm internal leads between the plug and the cable that leads out of the turntable. That presents essentially no load to the turntable suspension.

Making a look-alike for the Roksan unit is very simple and potentially very cheap. - maybe £40 using Cardas tonearm wire and Profi plugs.
Click to expand...

Hi Vinny

Does using "Cardas tonearm wire and Profi plugs " involve soldering - I'm really not good at soldering.

Regards

Mike
 
1964meb said:
Hi Craig B

Many thanks

Are the 'original parts' still available??? (£400 is a lot for a lead for that arm IMO)

Mike
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Nima appears to be still on the books at Roksan.com.

They don't list the original cable as 'accessories', which is why I suggested giving them a shout and possibly ordering one as 'parts'.

I'd specifically ask them for a replacement Nima lead via this contact form on Roksan's site. One of the 'What is your enquiry about' options is 'I need spare parts'.
 
Kenton said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18461406...d=link&campid=5338728743&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Is that it?
Click to expand...
That does appear to be the original lead.

The straight plug isn't as much of a problem at it seems. Depending upon how far this extends downward, one might find it best to fold the cable back up tight to the arm pillar and fasten it on using a zip tie (on to the plastic plug itself should it protrude far enough from the pillar end, if not then round the pillar). Then it is simply a matter of bending the remaining cable back down and routing it toward the P-clip/plinth exit point. Warming all up with a hair dryer first helps things set just so.

Anyone who has mounted a fair few Grace G-707 on Sondeks could do this in their sleep (sadly, some probably still do). Part of the issue with the old Grace was that the plug (socket really, as the pins were within the pillar connector) extended quite far out the end of the pillar. With the Jelco type cable that came with Nima there may not be a problem.

file.php
 
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1964meb said:
Ive seen a SH one for £185 but that that is the HDC-03A 'upgrade'.
Click to expand...

Beware the original upgrade cable - I had one and there is no support to the joint inside the heatshrink (the 4 wires join standard cable in there) and the one I had bought used had broken there obviously because of repeated bending and pulling.
 
I had a Nima on an LP12 and if IIRC there are two versions of the Nima with regards to plug orientation, one normal and one turned around so it would work easier in an LP12. I maybe be wrong bit this was the orientation of the DIN plug at the bottom of the arm and not the cable itself per se. Best to check with Roksan or a Linn dealer that fits Nima’s
 
tenpercenter said:
I had a Nima on an LP12 and if IIRC there are two versions of the Nima with regards to plug orientation, one normal and one turned around so it would work easier in an LP12. I maybe be wrong bit this was the orientation of the DIN plug at the bottom of the arm and not the cable itself per se. Best to check with Roksan or a Linn dealer that fits Nima’s
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I wonder if certain Linn dealers haven't simply rotated the terminal block within the arm pillars slightly. I've done this on numerous tonearms, only I don't recommend it to others for fear that my suggestion might have them 'wire binding' their arms, and/or fracturing/shorting wires within. The way to do this safely is to set the arm afloat sans AS bias whilst testing terminal block rotation, that is, after loosening the set screw(s) down side of pillar. If you can get sufficient rotation without causing the arm to prefer one direction of swing over the other then that orientation should be fine. With some, gently turning slightly past where you want to end up and then backing off to the preferred spot will create a new neutral orientation. Regardless, this need be tested over the full lateral range of motion of the tonearm, else what is free at start of record could bind toward end of side.

As always, should you or any of your MM Force be caught or killed, the Secretary will disavow any knowledge of your actions. This tape will self-destruct in five seconds. Good luck, Mr. Phelps.
 
Kenton said:
Mike, does it have to be a Roksan cable? How about one like this with a right angel plug, might be easier to fit in. I have one like this I put on my EAT. I used a solid silver one which was about £120 but it’s very good. Seller says this is Roksan compatible.

k

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32244989...d=link&campid=5338728743&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
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Hi Ken, I bought a right angled cable, this too was a mistake. I took it apart and re-orientated it. Unfortunately involved burring a brass screw, drilling it out (!!!!!!!) and bodging it back together.
It still works but isn't dressed correctly. I think thus is causing occasianal noises .... ??wow (??) and flutter(??) from the right channel.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Craig B said:
That does appear to be the original lead.

The straight plug isn't as much of a problem at it seems. Depending upon how far this extends downward, one might find it best to fold the cable back up tight to the arm pillar and fasten it on using a zip tie (on to the plastic plug itself should it protrude far enough from the pillar end, if not then round the pillar). Then it is simply a matter of bending the remaining cable back down and routing it toward the P-clip/plinth exit point. Warming all up with a hair dryer first helps things set just so.

Anyone who has mounted a fair few Grace G-707 on Sondeks could do this in their sleep (sadly, some probably still do). Part of the issue with the old Grace was that the plug (socket really, as the pins were within the pillar connector) extended quite far out the end of the pillar. With the Jelco type cable that came with Nima there may not be a problem.

file.php
Click to expand...
Thats excellent Craig. zi could try this for no cost - thats right up my street. Many thanks for the advice and pic.

Mike
 
1964meb said:
I think thus is causing occasianal noises .... ??wow (??) and flutter(??) from the right channel.
Click to expand...

Speed instability on one channel? ;0)

It's certainly true that if the arm cable isn't dressed correctly you can get speed issues. Although usually on both channels.
 
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