New turntable

[krenzler]

You can find Joel Boutreux's e-mail towards the bottom of this page:

http://www.stefanopasini.it/Audio_index_Thorens.htm

His english can be a little laboured (he's much more proficient in french or german) but you'll get what he means.

 

[avole]

FWIW I have read that it's quite unusual for Thorens springs to degrade to the point that a reasonable bounce can't be achieved, so might be worth trying sets like these (I will when I get around to it): they're not expensive, it's not like chancing your arm on a motor.

This is my feeling, too. I think you'll find spending some time on adjusting the springs using Joel's instructions will solve any problems.

 

[tolot]

Hi,

some Information you can get here:
http://www.theanalogdept.com/susp_tim_bailey.htm

tolot

 

[positive_energy]

I am very happy with my Well Tempered Amadeus turntable. I would definitely recommend one for your shortlist.

 

[mark-hants]

Thanks - I'll pursue those. Thankfully I can speak reasonable French.

The speed change seems to depend on the belt being in good condition (it's a new genuine Thorens one), the belt being fitted the right way around (text facing out), the fork through which the belt threads being exactly the right height, the motor spindle also being set just right, and the suspension supporting it all.

Before I took it for a service: it would change speed correctly most of the time, after I tightened the suspension progressively, though the belt would rub on the fork and the suspension was totally stiff which is not as per specification - it's meant to "bounce".

Now, everything is smooth, there is no sound of the belt rubbing, but it will only change speed with no record on the platter, and at 45RPM the slightest wobble of the suspension has the fork catching the underside of the platter.

The tolerances are seemingly very narrow indeed. Yet, 15 years ago before this went into storage it all worked perfectly.

I think what I'm going to have to do is what I did before, which is to ignore the sound quality aspect of how the suspension ought to be set and just keep on tightening it until the speed change works even if that means it's completely tight - as high as it will go, no "bounce", this will keep it going in the meantime.

The speed change is ultimately more important than the sound quality in so far as I can't use it if it doesn't change speed properly so that has to take priority. If I only listened to 33RPM LPs then it would be perfectly fine, a great sounding deck and second-hand it would be great for someone with no 45RPM requirement.

Thanks for the contacts, will report back.

 

[Seanm]

Can you adjust the motor azimuth on the 150? I've found it necessary to adjust this on my 147 very slightly when tuning the suspension to get the speed changer to work just right. Just occurred to me.

 

[avole]

I really doubt that the suspension is the problem. From memory you have to set the gap between platter and top plate at 6 mm, then adjust suspension for bounce. It should most certainly not be stiff. Once you have bounce and gap correct, you should be fine.

I'm with seanm, I'd be looking at the motor azimuth, and also the change mechanism. I take it you've cleaned both rim and spindlr, and have lightly dusted the belt with talc?

By the way, the article Ilinked to is very specific about belt length. i'd check yours just to be sure it is at the required spec.

 

[Seanm]

Yes, belt length can make a big difference here, worth experimenting with a few, although this can get expensive. Joel is very insistent that the official Thorens ones are too short. I found speed changing to be a little inconsistent with his and went back to the Thorens. Suspension, belt, motor azimuth and, as avole says, the speed changing mechanism itsel are all interrelated, so it gets fiddly. One of the reasons I bought an RP6.