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Naim

Don't use your your kitchen gas range to fry the fish either. PAY PROFESSIONAL AT THE CORNER BOOTH. Stay at home all the time and watch TV
Analogous. The only lethal voltage is a mains voltage present in every open socket in the house. The voltages on the supply part of Naim PSU's are at ~30V something non lethal in ANY circumstance. It's the most primitive power supply ever conceived. it doesn't mean it is not effective. Brute force at the best.
And 220 V is only potentially lethal in very special circumstances . I survived 15000V and 450V DC stings are just an annoyance happening every now and then
Go on, stick your tongue across one, I triple double dare ya!​
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Put the meter across the tants caps and see if it indicates short. If not , they are not the problem. Check the output reg voltage for 24V . Most of Naim folklore is a pure nonsense akin to "money sensor light " in the dashboard of a single lady car
 
Go on, stick your tongue on one, I triple double dare ya!​
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Send it in. That 60's tech stuff for board school girls . There are four elements to it. Maligned transformer 230V/30V , simple as fu..k rectifier bridge in full wave action , two bazuka capacitors (o.22 quid in wholesale to justify the cost of the whole affair) and three legged most primitive regulator originating in 50's concepts . Those blue beads are Nec tantals which likely are not the culprit but occasionally do short. They never need to be replaced but they are to justify the cost of "Naim recap"
 
Send it in. That 60's tech stuff for board school girls . There are four elements to it. Maligned transformer 230V/30V , simple as fu..k rectifier bridge in full wave action , two bazuka capacitors (o.22 quid in wholesale to justify the cost of the whole affair) and three legged most primitive regulator originating in 50's concepts . Those blue beads are Nec tantals which likely are not the culprit but occasionally do short. They never need to be replaced but they are to justify the cost of "Naim recap"
I meant, stick your tongue across one of those reservoir capacitors and then tell us there is only 24V floating about within a HI-CAP. This is, assuming you can type, let alone talk, afterward.

This isn't the pfm DIY room, regardless, the OP has demonstrated some ignorance wrt working with electronics. As such, the correct advice is to recommend seeking professional assistance.
 
If the unit has been switched off for a long time, even if there was rectified mains across the caps you'd be fine. It's staggeringly unlikely you'd die from a charged cap even if it was up to 340V and only just been switched off.

With all that said, always, always treat anything mains powered with the UTMOST respect and always power it down before opening it up. Mains is bastard dangerous.

In this case you have thirty something volts tops across the big caps, so as long as you don't lick 'em you'll be fine. The output tants have a tiny amount of charge in them.

Thank you everyone, I’m definitely going to have a look into the capacitors, I will probably just find the values of them and change them.. thanks again all

I think they're 10u at 35V.
 
Agree with DiBosco, a 62/140 is a very good combo. Can't remember off hand if the 62 can be powered from the 140, but if it can, go with that for the time being and find a friend with a soldering iron and a little knowledge to replace the caps, their pennies and Naim will charge you many hundreds. I'd put money on it being the caps.
I had a 72 / 140 which I then added a hi-cap to. I am pretty sure that the 62 worked like the 72 - that changed when I went to 135s and you had to have a HiCap to power the 72. I seem to remember needing a black DIN plug to go into the 72 though when you worked without the HiCap. This takes me back ... I had 72 / HiCap / 135s / IBLs ... and a NAT01 ... selling the NAT01 was my biggest hi-fi "mistake".
 
Back to the original post... surprised that nobody mentioned fuses yet. Are there any in HiCap or in those mains plugs of yours, you UK people are so proud about?
 
Thank you everyone, I’m definitely going to have a look into the capacitors, I will probably just find the values of them and change them.. thanks again all
As long as you're careful, there's no reason why you shouldn't do this yourself if you're proficient at soldering.
(Best to post such queries in the DIY section, then you'll avoid all the anti-Naim noise...)
 
then you'll avoid all the anti-Naim noise.
Whats this noise your referring to ?

We are nearly two pages in and I haven't seen any noise yet ?
Maybe we see things different ?

(PS, I already happily own several Naim boxes including a Hicap - if that makes any difference to your comment ?)
 
Before soldering things, have you checked that the Snaic 5 lead is OK?
Claims to have done so, but no mention of having used a multimeter which would also allow one to test for the absence of 24V out on either rail of HI-CAP without so much as having to slide the sleeve off (i.e. set meter to VDC, remove SNAIC5, and test across HI-CAP socket 4, pins 1 and 3, as well as between pins 5 and 3).
 
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Thank you everyone, I’m definitely going to have a look into the capacitors, I will probably just find the values of them and change them.. thanks again all
The tantalums are 10uF 35v and can be gotten from most suppliers, the large electrolitics are a little bit more difficult
 
I've had this exact problem and it was the tantulum caps on the output of the voltage regulators.

If you have a friend who knows about electronics, get them to look. Naim will charge a fortune to replace a couple of 25p capacitors (if that's what it is).
Hi I would like to thank you very much for your help, I ordered the Tants and replaced them all, I also put the Hi cap on soak to boost the electrolytic capacitors, it cost me £4.50 to sort it out, luckily I have had 40+ years of soldering so that wasn’t a problem at all, I didn’t need to use the hob to do it like some of the sarcastic comments I got, I really appreciate your help thank you again 😊
 
Hi I would like to thank you very much for your help, I ordered the Tants and replaced them all, I also put the Hi cap on soak to boost the electrolytic capacitors, it cost me £4.50 to sort it out, luckily I have had 40+ years of soldering so that wasn’t a problem at all, I didn’t need to use the hob to do it like some of the sarcastic comments I got, I really appreciate your help thank you again 😊
Well done! There are lot's of tw*ts on internet forums, but fortunately some good ones who actually want to help!
 


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