Naim SBL
- Thread starter Gaius
- Start date
Jo Sharp
Pulls on doors marked push
Mk2 SBLs appear for sale quite regularly. They are a bit better than Mk1s.
doctorf
left footed right winger
Look at http://www.sbls.co.uk
I think garyi built the site and it told me all I needed to know.
Simon
I think garyi built the site and it told me all I needed to know.
Simon
Hi Mark, mordaunt short made the mk1 unit and when they went bust naim had to get them from somewhere so decided the make there own.
Its basically the same unit but with low reflection cast alloy chassis as opposed to a pressed steel one.
I suppose on mk1 you here the chassis and mk11 the enclosure.
Its basically the same unit but with low reflection cast alloy chassis as opposed to a pressed steel one.
I suppose on mk1 you here the chassis and mk11 the enclosure.
I still have fond memories of using my SBL's, they need a little tlc, but not the amount the internet myth seems to have thrown up.
Yes they like a solid wall, preferably with nothing between them. They benefit a great deal from being level and no 'rocking' from any of the spikes.
The link gives and excellent description about how to ensure the seal sound be tackled.
I found an improvement by unscrewing the passive xo from the speaker and just letting them hang.
As for the mk2 bass unit, yes it is a little better but you will get a good flavour of what they do from the original unit.
br
glenn
Yes they like a solid wall, preferably with nothing between them. They benefit a great deal from being level and no 'rocking' from any of the spikes.
The link gives and excellent description about how to ensure the seal sound be tackled.
I found an improvement by unscrewing the passive xo from the speaker and just letting them hang.
As for the mk2 bass unit, yes it is a little better but you will get a good flavour of what they do from the original unit.
br
glenn
When I first heard SBLs at a dealer I loved them and thought they were the best speakers I had ever heard, but I could never afford a pair, so it was just a pipe dream.
But now I'm no longer a kid struggling with a first mortgage I have a pair, the very last from Naim when they discovered a batch of unused enclosures.
Whether they are MkI or MkII makes no difference when you would have sold your granny for a pair - they are SBLs!
Get them in the correct position close to the wall as possible and pay attention to every detail of setting up. Resist paying £75 for a kit unless you really have to as the ali pads can be taken off, hammered flat and put back in a slightly different position. Use washing up liquid on the gasket and get a new tube of clear silicon bath sealant.
I bought some Mana Soundbases for mine and they have worked for me really well so far, but not quite so well on my new parquet floor over concrete, so it isn't a no-brainer necessarily. When I had mine on carpet I used slate sub-slabs too, and they sounded awesome with every stage of the additions - far better than naked.
Don't worry about the version of them, just enjoy them.
As Glenn says, keep the crossovers very loosely attached, or just let them hang off the cable.
Use a spirit level to get them spot on vertical and make sure each spike is taking the same amount of load and keep the lock nuts only just pinched up. Start at fixing one back corner with the bottom box alone, then lift the front spikes off the surface by rocking back and level sideways to fix the other back spike. Wind fully in one front spike and level front to back the other front spike until it's perfect (on 3 points), then wind down the last front spike until its just taking up load. If you push the top of the box at the front and watch the spikes you'll want to see that they both touch down together - but if you are on carpet you'll have to rely on tapping and listening to ensure it's the same all round. Levelling spikes can be a pain if you don't have a method. Do it like this and you'll get it right within 10 minutes.
But now I'm no longer a kid struggling with a first mortgage I have a pair, the very last from Naim when they discovered a batch of unused enclosures.
Whether they are MkI or MkII makes no difference when you would have sold your granny for a pair - they are SBLs!
Get them in the correct position close to the wall as possible and pay attention to every detail of setting up. Resist paying £75 for a kit unless you really have to as the ali pads can be taken off, hammered flat and put back in a slightly different position. Use washing up liquid on the gasket and get a new tube of clear silicon bath sealant.
I bought some Mana Soundbases for mine and they have worked for me really well so far, but not quite so well on my new parquet floor over concrete, so it isn't a no-brainer necessarily. When I had mine on carpet I used slate sub-slabs too, and they sounded awesome with every stage of the additions - far better than naked.
Don't worry about the version of them, just enjoy them.
As Glenn says, keep the crossovers very loosely attached, or just let them hang off the cable.
Use a spirit level to get them spot on vertical and make sure each spike is taking the same amount of load and keep the lock nuts only just pinched up. Start at fixing one back corner with the bottom box alone, then lift the front spikes off the surface by rocking back and level sideways to fix the other back spike. Wind fully in one front spike and level front to back the other front spike until it's perfect (on 3 points), then wind down the last front spike until its just taking up load. If you push the top of the box at the front and watch the spikes you'll want to see that they both touch down together - but if you are on carpet you'll have to rely on tapping and listening to ensure it's the same all round. Levelling spikes can be a pain if you don't have a method. Do it like this and you'll get it right within 10 minutes.
Chaps
There are 3 things to remember with SBLs.
1. They really do need to be almost touching the wall with no toe in.
2. MK11s are a lot better than MK1s.
3. You need Mana (I know it's an old corny discussion) to get the best out of them.
I have a pair in my dining room system and I shall probably keep them for life.
Regards
Mick
There are 3 things to remember with SBLs.
1. They really do need to be almost touching the wall with no toe in.
2. MK11s are a lot better than MK1s.
3. You need Mana (I know it's an old corny discussion) to get the best out of them.
I have a pair in my dining room system and I shall probably keep them for life.
Regards
Mick
YNWOAN
100% Analogue
Given you are up, care to venture a sensible one? I have a solid wall and know that one....
Happy New Year Mark.
Sorry, went to sleep immediately after posting that:
1/ get them as close to the wall as you can but make sure the rear spikes are not resting on the carpets grip strip.
2/ get them as rigid/stable to the floor as you can - which can be a bit tricky given that the stand top is under the speaker cab.
3/ make sure the lock-nuts to the spikes are done up firmly.
4/ make sure the long hair wool in the lower cab is nicely plumped up.
5/ take time doing the gasket between the mid-box and the base.
6/ use enough silicone sealant to make sure there are no air gaps (but not gallons of the stuff).
7/ ideally use a new gasket kit - I'm not sure Naim do them any more though.
8/ new metal pads wouldn't be a bad idea either. When you remove the old, fill any spike holes with wood filler.
9/ when you fit the mid unit give it a boink on the top to make sure the spikes make contact with the metal pads. They are supposed to lightly pierce it. Make sure the mid unit isn't just floating on the silicone bead.
10/ some have suggested that wiping the surfaces first with washing-up liquid makes removing of silicone much easier in future - never tried it though.
11/ use a piece of thick cardboard to space th treble unit above the base.
12/ don't over tighten the treble units bracket where it joins the main stand at the base.
wylton
Naim and Mana member
I have this problem; I'm currently using Mk1 Kans on MkII stands (previously SBL's and Isobariks) on a Mana soundbase. The gripper prevents me from getting the speakers as close to the rear wall as I would like. This is further exacerbated by the proximity of the skirting board. I have been trying to think of a way round this.
Rasher's use of the slate sub-base is an interesting idea as well.
YNWOAN
100% Analogue
If you move the speakers (and stands) out of the way and lift the edge of the carpet, you can use a chisel (and hammer) to just cut out the bit of grip strip that's in the way. The strip is easy to cut and the carpet will fit just as before.
(or you can just rip it up as Mark suggests - my way is neater though
)I'm not a supporter of sub-bases (whatever they are made of).