claire.foxx
-⃝⃤
You are indeed very lucky there as that kind of board-mounted knob is pretty easy to damage unlike say a Minimoog, Korg MS20 etc where the pots are actually bolted to the front panel. It was rare to find one that has never needed a fix even back when I was buying/selling the things 25 years ago! Nice Nippon Chemicon caps too, which are likely still mostly ok! How’s the tuning/keyboard tracking and long-term pitch stability?
I’ve set a day aside next week to check that over (the process with a multimeter and chromatic tuner is shown in one of the next instalment of the restoration videos I linked to), it’s only just been stripped, but a cursory tinkle on the plastics reveals a Middle C is still a Middle C after an hour and the pitch and modwheel centres to about 1/32 of a stop accuracy so it detents back mechanically to acceptable parameters so I am hopeful the electronics are as good as the mechanics.
Earlier models just had the pot side tags folded in but this has the proper grounding tags soldered in place. Harder to desolder to remove and strip and clean when this happens but more stable. Fortunately I don’t have to, I don’t think.
Sometimes the externals don’t reflect the internals. Got that horrible glue out of the wood channels without drama (heatgun loosens it up nicely - GORT Did not know this in his video but I picked up on it in the comments) and I will begin sanding/oiling today. I’m trying to avoid anything too invasive.
I am shying away from adding MIDI and CV/Trig retrofits even though it is the done thing, there is something about keeping it as it is — but cleaner.
First bath complete, drying off. “Hey mom? what’s cooking?”
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