Maybe its been on Pinkfish before but has anyone published the "dummys guide to modifying a CD Player" with pictures for the guy's who don't have soldering irons but could get one for Christmas. I've seen it for the Geddon clone (Richard Hallman's excellent article, for example). There seems to be a lot of tech expertise avaliable out there and a lot of cheap players to practise on. I understand just replacing one or two important capacitors, an improved power supply, a new mains lead, can bring improvements vis a vie the Marrantz CD65 saga.
Modifying CD Players
- Thread starter grol123
- Start date
fatcat
pfm Member
Dave
You asked for a "dummy's guide to modifying a CD Player". As nobody has replied and tried to help you, I will attempt to.
I am qualified to do so, because Dave, I was that dummy who attempted to upgrade a CD player.
12 months ago I owned a Rotel 965, I had owned it from new and was in perfect working condition.
My first modification was to fit a DIN socket to use instead of the phono 's. Naim say they are better, so that's good enough for me. I like to think it was an improvement but I am not sure.
My second and last modification was to replace the op amps. This was quite difficult, as there is only one large circuit board and it is not easy to remove. The selection of op amp is important, an op amp that is sonically a good match with a multibit player may not be so with a bitstream player. I made a good job of replacing it, I even made a custom heatsink out of a piece of copper.
Now my problems started. Where do all those wires connect up to? Why are there a lot more sockets on the board than cables? I connected them up as I thought correct and switched on. My CD player now sounded like a bowl of Rice Crispies and a smoke was coming from the display.
I was able to play CD's but could only do so if I used the remote. I couldn't see which track was playing plus on most CD's I couldn't play beyond track number 10. However, the improvement in sound quality was very noticeable.
It now lives in the loft.
I bought a 965 Discrete for £100.00. This machine does not have op amps but an output stage built with mainly Black Gate capacitors. The ceramic capacitors (I think that's what they are) have been changed, plus most of the Black Gate capacitors have been replaced by BHC capacitors. It definitely sounds better than a standard 965.
From my painful experience detailed above and as somebody who has only basic knowledge of electronics I would advise the following.
1. Take digital photos of the player before you disconnect or remove anything.
2. Research on the Internet, modifications of the player you intend to modify, both in terms of types of possible modifications and the ease of modifications.
If you have a Marantz player try to find out what changes where made to KI players.
3. Identify the type of OP Amps used. Replace if necessary. Don't fit the op amps onto the board, fit a socket, this will enable you to easily test different types.
4. Replace the clock. Fit a dedicated power supply to the clock.
5. Be careful who you take advise from. There a lot of people using forums such as this who obviously now what they are talking about. Identify them and listen to what they have to say. (I am not one of these people)
6. Don't listen to general advice, such as Black gates are really good, Oscons are top notch or vishay resistors are the ones to use.
7. Dont bother changing voltage regulators, transistors or diodes. There may be benefits in doing so, but I believe these are not as significant as changing the op amps and clock.
I intend,in the near future, to replace the clock in my CD player with a master clock from LC Audio. (Their website give detailed instructions for a large number of CD players). And I dont intend making the same mistake twice.
You asked for a "dummy's guide to modifying a CD Player". As nobody has replied and tried to help you, I will attempt to.
I am qualified to do so, because Dave, I was that dummy who attempted to upgrade a CD player.
12 months ago I owned a Rotel 965, I had owned it from new and was in perfect working condition.
My first modification was to fit a DIN socket to use instead of the phono 's. Naim say they are better, so that's good enough for me. I like to think it was an improvement but I am not sure.
My second and last modification was to replace the op amps. This was quite difficult, as there is only one large circuit board and it is not easy to remove. The selection of op amp is important, an op amp that is sonically a good match with a multibit player may not be so with a bitstream player. I made a good job of replacing it, I even made a custom heatsink out of a piece of copper.
Now my problems started. Where do all those wires connect up to? Why are there a lot more sockets on the board than cables? I connected them up as I thought correct and switched on. My CD player now sounded like a bowl of Rice Crispies and a smoke was coming from the display.
I was able to play CD's but could only do so if I used the remote. I couldn't see which track was playing plus on most CD's I couldn't play beyond track number 10. However, the improvement in sound quality was very noticeable.
It now lives in the loft.
I bought a 965 Discrete for £100.00. This machine does not have op amps but an output stage built with mainly Black Gate capacitors. The ceramic capacitors (I think that's what they are) have been changed, plus most of the Black Gate capacitors have been replaced by BHC capacitors. It definitely sounds better than a standard 965.
From my painful experience detailed above and as somebody who has only basic knowledge of electronics I would advise the following.
1. Take digital photos of the player before you disconnect or remove anything.
2. Research on the Internet, modifications of the player you intend to modify, both in terms of types of possible modifications and the ease of modifications.
If you have a Marantz player try to find out what changes where made to KI players.
3. Identify the type of OP Amps used. Replace if necessary. Don't fit the op amps onto the board, fit a socket, this will enable you to easily test different types.
4. Replace the clock. Fit a dedicated power supply to the clock.
5. Be careful who you take advise from. There a lot of people using forums such as this who obviously now what they are talking about. Identify them and listen to what they have to say. (I am not one of these people)
6. Don't listen to general advice, such as Black gates are really good, Oscons are top notch or vishay resistors are the ones to use.
7. Dont bother changing voltage regulators, transistors or diodes. There may be benefits in doing so, but I believe these are not as significant as changing the op amps and clock.
I intend,in the near future, to replace the clock in my CD player with a master clock from LC Audio. (Their website give detailed instructions for a large number of CD players). And I dont intend making the same mistake twice.
robs
should know how this works by no
Some good info below (especially the acoustica & TNT sites)...but as fatcat says, be aware that it is quite easy to kill your machine!. I have a CD63, and have added damping to the casework, a filtered IEC inlet, a Kwak clock, & a few other bits & pieces. I have an unmodded one too (which I got cheap on EBay in case I did the worst to the original..!), and there is a distinct difference for the better to my ears.
http://www.diyaudio.com
http://www.acoustica.org.uk
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/digital/bbs.html
http://www.tweakaudio.com/Cd tweaks.html
Have fun!
http://www.diyaudio.com
http://www.acoustica.org.uk
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/digital/bbs.html
http://www.tweakaudio.com/Cd tweaks.html
Have fun!