Linn Karousel Bearing oil check?.

[per-Sony-fied]

It seems the torque settings for the Karousel have been all over the place since its introduction. Are these current torque settings set by Linn published somewhere?

Finger tightness? Not sure there’s a torque wrench that goes that low,

This image pinched off the web which comes in the Karousel box & states 3.5Nm. There are plenty of torque wrenches that work that low.
This document/instructions is REV2. I notice also on the web there is another revision document that states 4Nm for all modern LINN Subchassis & 5Nm for the older pressed steel type. This appears to be be the original revision 1

 

[Beobloke]

Here you go - LP12 belt for a sensible price.

I bought one of theirs for my Linn Basik and it was spot on.

LINN Sondek LP12 Turntable Belt, Precision Ground 0.85mm x 5mm PREMIUM QUALITY | eBay

LINN Sondek LP12 Premium Replacement Drive Belt - Please see "FULL DESCRIPTION" area for all info & large photos - Thank you.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Mr Pig]

I don’t know why you would replace your belt every year.

I can't remember. Maybe it was the dealer, I honestly couldn't say. I bought my first LP12 when I was twenty so that would have been 1987.

 

[Mr Pig]

This image pinched off the web which comes in the Karousel box & states 3.5Nm. There are plenty of torque wrenches that work that low.

Yeah, and that's not finger tight. To be honest, that's about what I would expect, about 4Nm. Certainly not more than that. It's not a ridiculously low value.

 

[paulski]

The main worry would be that the bearing had previously been fitted by someone who didn’t pay close attention to the torque setting for the top nut. If it’s been tightened too much the bearing liners can be distorted creating a sticky bearing.

This is why Karousel bearings aren’t guaranteed if not fitted by a dealer. And a good reason someone might sell one cheap second hand.

In a word, bollox. Have you looked at the build of the thing. The amount of torque you’d have to apply to get a measurable distortion would be immense.

 

[Darren L]

Have you looked at the build of the thing. The amount of torque you’d have to apply to get a measurable distortion would be immense.

That's what I thought, it would need to be tightened with an impact driver to distort the bearing liner.

 

[Mr Pig]

The amount of torque you’d have to apply to get a measurable distortion would be immense.

Yes, it's not aluminium. I do think it might be possible to stretch the top part of the housing, it is quite thin, but I think you'd need to put a breaker bar on it.

 

[Wayne C]

Out of interest what recommendations do people have for jigs, I really would like to consider this option at some stage?, changing the bearing oil isn’t as straightforward as inserting anything like a cotton bud physically into it to remove it. And the bearing for sure would need to be removed from the deck to do a proper job. Labour costs of doing these jobs comes in at £60 an hour so I’m told. I’m guessing taking the bearing off isn’t a 10 min job. I guess like anything once you have done something once things may be less daunting.

 

[Jazzer]

Out of interest what recommendations do people have for jigs, I really would like to consider this option at some stage?, changing the bearing oil isn’t as straightforward as inserting anything like a cotton bud physically into it to remove it. And the bearing for sure would need to be removed from the deck to do a proper job. Labour costs of doing these jobs comes in at £60 an hour so I’m told. I’m guessing taking the bearing off isn’t a 10 min job. I guess like anything once you have done something once things may be less daunting.

I use my old target style hifi rack with a thick piece of plywood that has a large central area cut out of it, and placed on the top shelf of the rack.
It enables me to work under the deck and to play it with the Linn baseboard removed to check the results of my fiddling. lol.
Since moving house, I now run the deck on a light pine table for aesthetic reasons? have always thought that it sounded better with the base board on but many prefer it off.

 

[Mr Pig]

Out of interest what recommendations do people have for jigs.

You've got a few options.

Top of the tree is a genuine Linn jig.
Not cheap at about £300 but in my opinion the best. Great access and high enough to work comfortably under it. Plinth clamps and long back uprights so that you can lay it on its back but I never do that.

Solid Sounds Rota-jig LINK
Also £300 but lets you rotate the deck upside down for easy early assembly. Seems a popular option but I prefer the more solid Linn offering.

Cheapo eBay jig LINK
Not always available but usually are. The least desirable option but £50 and will do the job for occasional use. Not very high, your arms are going to lie on those lower horizontals and access is more limited.

Make one.
An old Sound Organization or Target table are almost made for the job. Cut out the front horizontal bar and weld on two l-sections for the plinth to sit on. Swap the screw in spikes for bolts and you've got a very usable jig for not much money.

Four paint tins
Asking for it! Yes,I've done but one slip and it's tears so buy anything rather than do this.

 

[Wayne C]

You've got a few options.

Top of the tree is a genuine Linn jig.
Not cheap at about £300 but in my opinion the best. Great access and high enough to work comfortably under it. Plinth clamps and long back uprights so that you can lay it on its back but I never do that.

Solid Sounds Rota-jig LINK
Also £300 but lets you rotate the deck upside down for easy early assembly. Seems a popular option but I prefer the more solid Linn offering.

Cheapo eBay jig LINK
Not always available but usually are. The least desirable option but £50 and will do the job for occasional use. Not very high, your arms are going to lie on those lower horizontals and access is more limited.

Make one.
An old Sound Organization or Target table are almost made for the job. Cut out the front horizontal bar and weld on two l-sections for the plinth to sit on. Swap the screw in spikes for bolts and you've got a very usable jig for not much money.

Four paint tins
Asking for it! Yes,I've done but one slip and it's tears so buy anything rather than do this.

I’ve owned those target stands and sound organisation ones back in the day, are you referring to the two level version. To match the height of the linn authentic one.

 

[Mr Pig]

I’ve owned those target stands and sound organisation ones back in the day, are you referring to the two level version. To match the height of the linn authentic one.

Yip.

 

[Wayne C]

I’m going to put an advert in the classified to see if anyone’s got one for sale.

 

[Jazzer]

I’ve owned those target stands and sound organisation ones back in the day, are you referring to the two level version. To match the height of the linn authentic one.

Mine is a four shelf type.
I have never seen a proper Linn one in the flesh so I have no idea what height you have to work at with them.
My rack was actually made by Partington and has 4 adjustable shelves.
I place my modified cut out plywood shelf at the very top position and remove all the others to give me access from beneath.
It is about a metre from the floor I suppose, working height.
Works really well and up until I moved, I simply put the original shelves back in when I had finished playing about with the innards of the turntable.

 

[Mr Pig]

Mine is a four shelf type.
I have never seen a proper Linn one in the flesh so I have no idea what height you have to work at with them.

A standard two-shelf Sound Org or Target table is probably the same height as a Linn jig give or take a few centimeters. I made an LP12 jig out of a Sound Org table and it was great. more or less as good as a genuine Linn one and cost £50 plus a couple of quid to the welder who tacked the bars on.

 

[Wayne C]

A standard two-shelf Sound Org or Target table is probably the same height as a Linn jig give or take a few centimeters. I made an LP12 jig out of a Sound Org table and it was great. more or less as good as a genuine Linn one and cost £50 plus a couple of quid to the welder who tacked the bars on.

Are the bars made out of the piece you cut out I’m trying to visualise this, I had one of these stands year ago. As you say same type of tubing as the Linn jig but probably a fair bit wider

 

[Mr Pig]

Are the bars made out of the piece you cut out I’m trying to visualise this, I had one of these stands year ago. As you say same type of tubing as the Linn jig but probably a fair bit wider

I'm sure I have pictures somewhere. PM me your email address and I'll send them to you.

If I remember correctly, I removed the front bar and dropped the back on for cable clearance. I cut off the four shelf supports and welded on two sections of L-section for the deck to sit on. I didn't fit clamps but that would be easy to do if you wanted to.

 

[Wayne C]

An update I’ve just received and installed a new belt and it is exactly the same issue, so it’s not the belt I would think.

 

[Wayne C]

Be amazed but it’s possible.

If you want to be practical (I would)

Get a new belt and some bearing oil (of any sort for LP12). For goodness sake don’t buy a £60 Linn one that’s crazy.

Take the platter off. Clean up the bearing hole with a Q tip and if you like some IPA but it’s not essential.

Refill the bearing with oil. There’s normally instructions but basically there’s enough going in so it ‘starts’ to want to come out ‘in play’. There’s lots of ‘this many drops’ and so on but the bearing basically wants to be nearly filled (once the spindle is in)

The oil normally comes with some instructions.

Clean the pulley and sub platter with ipa or window cleaner or whatever.

See if it’s fixed.

If not adjust the motor. Google the lp12 service manual.

The outer platter can go on the inner upside down so that you can see what’s going on.

It’s either a bearing oil oroblem (I’d be amazed, but fresh oil always a good idea) or the wrong or a crappy belt, or a contaminated belt, or (very unlikely) a grossly mis-adjusted motor position.

Sounds like the deck has been fiddled with before so why not put a fresh belt and some new oil in.

Strongly suspect it’s a duff belt.

As mentioned. Just installed a new belt and it’s exactly the same , I think the motor maybe the issue possibly

 

[Mr Pig]

An update I’ve just received and installed a new belt and it is exactly the same issue, so it’s not the belt I would think.

I don't think you've got any choice but to take the deck to a dealer. It's impossible to diagnose without seeing it.