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Linn Kan B110B Driver Replacement

C

Charlie_1

pfm Member
Has anyone heard the results of replacing an original Kef B110B driver with the new one from Falcon Accoustics?

Also, any recommendations on which companies are best approached to do the work?

I've seen a couple on the Internet but just looking for feedback.
 
Ah right, I assume the B110 is the earlier version then? I've only started looking into this today. If so, then same question but related to the B110.

My Kans are fairly early and don't have the B110B anyway although they do have the better tweeter.
 
It was more a concern due to their age. Thought perhaps they were not performing at their best even though I really enjoy music through them.

However, since you ask, the treble is a bit rough on some recordings.

They are sat on floor standing speakers, on rubber feet, at the moment so I really must get the Kan 2 stands first of all.

I also had a PM from a friend today who talked through what’s involved in replacing the drivers and I’ve kind of gone off the idea.
 
If they aren’t rubbing then the only potential issue is stiffening of the rubber surrounds.

This can be treated:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/243413-kef-b139-sp1044-fs-43hz.html

But be aware you May prefer the snappier presentation of the harder suspension

Aging tweeters present more issues especially where dried ferrofluid is present.

I mentioned the difference between the b110a&b because they are more different than people realise. As a mid/bass the A is preferred, as a mid the B is superior. Also they are actually a different chassis shape and one will not fit perfectly in a cutout made for the other.
 
david ellwood said:
If they aren’t rubbing then the only potential issue is stiffening of the rubber surrounds.

This can be treated:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/243413-kef-b139-sp1044-fs-43hz.html

But be aware you May prefer the snappier presentation of the harder suspension

Aging tweeters present more issues especially where dried ferrofluid is present.

I mentioned the difference between the b110a&b because they are more different than people realise. As a mid/bass the A is preferred, as a mid the B is superior. Also they are actually a different chassis shape and one will not fit perfectly in a cutout made for the other.
Click to expand...
Thanks David.
Is the deterioration inevitable or does it relate to usage or the environment they've been subjected to?
 
IMHO that makes them the best ever version. I'd recommend letting them well alone in terms of trying to renew anything and just enjoy them.
 
I once changed the original B110A units from my Kans to the new Falcon ones and I'm sorry to say the Falcons do not sound better. I even retrofitted all the Linn mods to the drivers, mainly the aluminium plates throughout the driver chassis (without them Kans do not sound quite right), but still no. I guess run-in could make the sound better, but I did not have the patience to wait and changed the old drivers back. Even tough Falcon say that they make the coating of the driver cones the same way as before, it is different from old Linn units. Linn ones seem to have heavier amount of coating and it's not sticky at all, so it could be that Linn ordered special versions of these drivers or coated them in-house or the coating was different back then anyway. The best B110As by far in Kans date back to serial numbers 10xxx to 12xxx. These seem to have better rubber surrounds than Kans with serial 15xxx-19xxx, lighter in color and later Kans have had some cracks in the rubber whereas the very early Kans never have). If the drivers aren't broken, I would not change them to new ones.
 
Having faffed about replacing drivers in the past its a doddle to do but a waste of time unless you have an identical driver to fit or a better one.
Whats wrong with the driver?
 
Those old KEF B110's will probably be out of spec now (although I doubt Linn even bothered to pair match them in original production) - the Falcon B110's will be superior in every way - in fact, too good for Linn rubbish. Do yourself and your ears a favour - ditch them and buy some speakers from a serious manufacturer.
 
winchman said:
Having faffed about replacing drivers in the past its a doddle to do but a waste of time unless you have an identical driver to fit or a better one.
Whats wrong with the driver?
Click to expand...
Nothing is wrong with them. I was just curious if they were worth replacing. I will just continue to enjoy my music through them as they are.
 
Well, whatever Kans are they most certainly are not "knocked up in a couple of hours by bored Linn techies". I've never seen such care and attention put in a speaker box construction in what was basically entry-level speakers, especially the insides which are never even seen (matched veneers, box veneered on both sides, every possible seam sealed, very heavy gauge wiring soldered directly to the posts and drivers, damping inside is top notch as is bracing, crossovers damped with hotmelt glue, drivers modified to suit their agenda). They cared about the sound, but the sound they make just isn't for everyone's taste. I love them. :D
 
david ellwood said:
If they aren’t rubbing then the only potential issue is stiffening of the rubber surrounds.

This can be treated:

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/243413-kef-b139-sp1044-fs-43hz.html

But be aware you May prefer the snappier presentation of the harder suspension

Aging tweeters present more issues especially where dried ferrofluid is present.

I mentioned the difference between the b110a&b because they are more different than people realise. As a mid/bass the A is preferred, as a mid the B is superior. Also they are actually a different chassis shape and one will not fit perfectly in a cutout made for the other.
Click to expand...
KEF model T27 was NEVER available with ferrofluid...
 
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