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Linn Classik - DEAD!

My experience at 'fixing' Classiks is fairly limited but I am aware that they suffer from over-heating problems due to poor ventilation, amongst other issues.

This usually impacts on capacitors in the power supply which need to be replaced.

@linnfomaniac83 is certainly the person to contact.
I have spoken to David, I need to dig the schematic out but I’ve been pretty poorly and had some other issues going on. I’ll try and get onto that today. The four 100uf 35v caps are absolutely the first thing I’d change though, the always fail and replacing them usually restores function. That’s not to say there won’t be other faults. If you get a power light, the SMPS (standby supply) is working, but if those caps have failed, the output ripple will be jamming the microcontroller that controls input selection, volume, power state etc, which is why the gradually start struggling to come out of standby and exhibiting erratic behaviour.
 
I have recently acquired a Linn Classik K. sounding well but no sound from FM. The band tuning worked and the signal strength showed 5, and still showed 5 with the aerial removed. I factory reset the classic, but now the tuner has disappeared and does not show up on the input selection.
anyone had this
 
@PeterP - you may want to remove your email address from this 'open post' where anyone could scoop it up and send it over directly via a pm instead. Otherwise, you stand the chance of being spammed!
 
I’d not seen the updates on the thread, it’s obviously fallen back a few pages and in all honesty I’d forgotten about it...

Anyhow, the shorting display cable is very odd indeed, I’ve never seen anything like that before but it could have caused some big problems. Fingers crossed everything is okay there.

The toroidal transformer is only energised when the switching supply energises the relay, I’ve no reason to believe the toroidal transformer will be at fault. If, in the extremely unlikely event that had failed, you would still see power and display but the power amp section wouldn’t work.

As for the caps, the main culprits for preventing the unit powering up properly are C327 and C328 which are 100uf 35v through hole electrolytics which filter the outputs from the small PCB mounted transformer, however you should see, or at least hear (in the form of a hiss/whine) some signs of life if these are bad... they usually are, replace them with 105°c rated low ESR Panasonics. However if there are no signs of life, check for voltage between ground and the inductors (L301 and L302), if you have nothing there, it’s not the capacitors, and it’s likely to be something in the PWM circuit that drives the small transformer. I am just about to order parts for Jason P’s Classik and rebuild the SMPS, the only bit I can’t replace is the transformer itself so I’m praying that’s okay, if it isn’t, the only fix is a Classik T with a burned output stage which I can harvest for it’s transformer. I’ll let you know how I get on.

PS, I have a schematic for a Classik T if you’d like a copy, PM me your email address and I’ll email the PDF to you.
 
Linnfomaniac83: I've never posted on any forum before, but I could really use the PDF of the Classik T. My son returned my 22 year old unit to me with the "lo p" message. I checked the Youtube vid and this message and ordered the caps. I changed all 6 of the 100uF caps and 4 of the 22uF near the output ICs with no change to the "lo p". After changing 4 of the 22uF nearest U309, the unit then would not display anything. I discovered I had damaged the traces on removing one and also then noticed a burnt/missing trace running past the 2 100uF and inductors. No change after repairing all the damage I could see. Without the schematic, I think this unit is done. Would I send my email in some separate message for you to send the PDF? Thanks!
 
I have an old Linn Classik which plays well but occasionally the lens on the laser module just keeps moving backward and clicks at the end of the travel. it does this when the drawer is opened. if i switch it off and then on again it goes back to the home position and its fine again for a few CDs. i replaced the whole CD lens mechanism and it worked fine for about 3 months then it started doing the same thing again. has anyone seen this fault and do you know what the problem might be?
 
Does anyone have the schematics for A Linn Classik S ? Just heard a loud bang, followed by noise and LO-P on the display.
We just changed the capacitors 63V 100uf, 25V 100uf and 50V 100uf. Would love to hear her play again...
 
I have a Classic T, where the sound of cd is distorted on specific volume levels. For example on 70 it is clean, on 71 it is little distorted, at 72 it's clean again and at 77 it is distorted again. Other inputs seem to be clean. Any suggestion? I would love to have a schematic to help.
 


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