advertisement


Lenco GL75 vs. Thorens TD-124

Some say it isn't a bad arm if refurbed, some say it's a bit ratty. Certainly the few I've had in front of me have had perished bearings and saggy end stubs and on the face of it didn't look worth the effort to put right, though I could be wrong. I had a spare modern arm that was a drop in though so didn't bother.

The cartridge fixing in the headshell is a complete pig's ear of a thing though, whatever anyone says.

Ps. All Denon compliance figures are wrong. They are quoted at the wrong frequency and are all higher compliance than the figures suggest. However the 103 IME sounds much better in a heavy arm anyway. Frankly the thing defies accepted theory.
 
According to the guys at Lenco Lovers / Lenco Heaven the L75 arm has an effective mass of 23g. I can well believe this as it is pretty heavy and the counterweight rides quite some distance from the pivot point.

Tony.
 
I cut a strip out of my 75 and welded it back together. A bit of lead loading and some primer to finish. It's been painted metallic silver since this photo was taken.

Lenco011.jpg
 
I cut a strip out of my 75 and welded it back together. A bit of lead loading and some primer to finish. It's been painted metallic silver since this photo was taken.

Lenco011.jpg

Great minds think alike. LOL. :D:D

Sharif.
 
I've owned several GL75's over the years and, for what it's worth, I rather like the supplied arm as long as the bearing blocks are attended to and the exit cables are replaced.

Tony and I may disagree on this point (;)), but I found the stock arm perfectly ok with the more durable mm cartridges and I suspect the more universal budget mc's as well (DL110/160). I used a K9 in one with no stability issues, so the equivalent AT (95E, 120E) should be ok too, as well as the (now exalted) Shure M3D/N21.

The sound of these turntables is fantastic in terms of pitch stability and has a firmly "solid" quality to it. Any "rumble" tends to be harmonics of the idler drive rather than motor vibration I've found, but watch for main bearing "wobble" as some suffer from this (these decks ended up as rotating speaker drive unit assembly jigs), Most should be ok though.

The stock mat is great as-is, although some say the GL78 mat is better still and the auto-stop of the latter isn't intrusive on arm-friction.

I still feel bad about butchering the deck, but there are so many of these decks about, it probably doesn't matter and important spares are still available from T&G.

As the Techie-tweaky market is becoming too full now, perhaps someone could manufacture a new armless top plate so the mechanicals could be transferred over? maybe this is done already?????
 
I've owned several GL75's over the years and, for what it's worth, I rather like the supplied arm as long as the bearing blocks are attended to and the exit cables are replaced.

Tony and I may disagree on this point (;)), but I found the stock arm perfectly ok with the more durable mm cartridges and I suspect the more universal budget mc's as well (DL110/160). I used a K9 in one with no stability issues, so the equivalent AT (95E, 120E) should be ok too, as well as the (now exalted) Shure M3D/N21.

The sound of these turntables is fantastic in terms of pitch stability and has a firmly "solid" quality to it. Any "rumble" tends to be harmonics of the idler drive rather than motor vibration I've found, but watch for main bearing "wobble" as some suffer from this (these decks ended up as rotating speaker drive unit assembly jigs), Most should be ok though.

The stock mat is great as-is, although some say the GL78 mat is better still and the auto-stop of the latter isn't intrusive on arm-friction.

I still feel bad about butchering the deck, but there are so many of these decks about, it probably doesn't matter and important spares are still available from T&G.

As the Techie-tweaky market is becoming too full now, perhaps someone could manufacture a new armless top plate so the mechanicals could be transferred over? maybe this is done already?????

You are right, it's been done for a while now. It's now up to version 3 called PTP3 top plate from one of the admin at Lenco Heaven. I have one here waiting for my slate plinth to arrive to get it started. And there are a few chaps from UK doing high quality custom bearing for the Lencos. Some of the creations by the DIYers on Lenco Heaven are just brilliant.



See the pic of the said top plate.
http://www.oswaldsmillaudio.com/Products/images/plinths/lenco/small_lenco2.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/21euwl3.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/f3yq6e.jpg
 
Last night I did some comparisons with the GL75.

It made me realize that the arm is not the piece of junk that people claim it is. And a completely standard GL75 with a decent cartridge is a very capable deck. I found very little difference between the standard GL75 and some serious turntables I compared it with. If the cartridges had been the same there might have been no difference!

Are you throwing away your GL75 arm just because everyone else is?

I have had some major surprises after doing comparisons by switching instantly with levels matched........and having an open mind.

I don't think hifi has changed very much in 40+ years. Today there is a glut of high quality used hifi available for peanuts.
 
And that is the reason lots of young people will not buy into the Foo. They have more sense and would rather have something more tangible for their money.
 
Are you throwing away your GL75 arm just because everyone else is?

I have had some major surprises after doing comparisons by switching instantly with levels matched........and having an open mind.

I don't think hifi has changed very much in 40+ years. Today there is a glut of high quality used hifi available for peanuts.

Nah. I threw mine away (actually I didn't, they're in bits in a box) because the counterweights were heading for Australia, had some seriously ratty wiring and the bearings were shot ... and I had an alternative that would drop in fit. However I'll happily believe they aren't too bad if I could bring myself to do the necessary work. The problem is the knackered bearing/saggy end stub/ratty wiring issues are more common than not I fear (a sample of two is pretty small but both of mine had identical problems). And lets face it they don't LOOK like they'd be up to much do they? ;)

The cartridge mounting sled arrangement thing stinks though, whichever way you look at it.
 
Put it this way, a GL75 with new bearing blocks, exit wiring AND K9 absolutely peed all over an Axis/Akito mk1 and K9. the Lenco owner was delighted :D

If one isn't careful though, the GL75 upgrades will go the same way as the Techie ones, and there are some seriously expensive ones for the latter now..
 
Put it this way, a GL75 with new bearing blocks, exit wiring AND K9 absolutely peed all over an Axis/Akito mk1 and K9. the Lenco owner was delighted :D

If one isn't careful though, the GL75 upgrades will go the same way as the Techie ones, and there are some seriously expensive ones for the latter now..

Not at all surprised. My Lenco/Ittok/DL103 pees over my LP12/Ittok/DL103. I have a bearing upgrade on the way which should really deliver and I am getting a Midas Touch body for the 103. The other thing I am considering is ESCo for the 103. Then I reckon I will be done.

I have never enjoyed listening to records as much as at present. The LP12 has been a good friend for a 1/4 century but is bested in my system by a deck costing a tiny fraction of its value - less, in fact, than any one of the numerous upgrades I would need to bring the LP12 up to current spec. No thanks, Ivor.

Cheers,

Nic.
 
So, what's the plan for the ON/OFF switch then?

Sorry Patrick, I missed that.

I've done away with 16 rpm. I modified my deck so that in that position the idler comes away from the motor shaft and the platter. I repositioned the switch so the motor turns off as well.

Lenco014.jpg
 
What sort of connection does the headshell on the GL75 arm use? Is it easy enough to take the headshell off?
 


advertisement


Back
Top