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Leak TL/12+ Stereo 60 shed find

Budney

Member
This weekend I took a trip down to Wales to pick up some super cheap KEF 4 ways. The day before I was leaving the seller messages me to say she also found some old valve amps in the shed and would I be interested in them as well. She reels off the model numbers and starts saying a grand plus for each of them, probably just saw the listings on ebay. I said bit pricey for me but send some photos anyway.

When I saw the photos I knew they were something special as a hifi friend has mentioned Leak valve amps in the past so started to do a bit of research. I got in touch with Tony of this forum and he gave me some solid advice. I ended up bringing home 2 x TL/12+ mono blocks, a Stereo 60, Varislope Stereo 2 and a Through Line 3, plus the gorgeous KEFs, for £800 which I was pretty pleased about. Not bargain basement prices but this stuff doesn't come around often so figured it was worth the risk. I managed to talk her down thanks to Tonys valuable insight, mainly that the mains transformer of the Stereo 60 was not stock and so its collectible value has all but gone, as well as some valves, including the GZ37, were unusable. Mullard throughout however! Blessing and a curse, as some will need replacing, so I may have to go with Mullard to keep everything the same...tricky decisions.

I now get to begin the challenge of restoring these. Obviously all the out of spec passives have to go, I'll stick with carbon composite resistors and oil caps as per Tony's recommendation. I like the idea of leaving the original can caps in place and installing new ones on the underside of the chassis to retain the original look. I've got access to a proper tube tester so hopefully the ones that look physically fine will be good to use. The GZ37 rectifier looks shot, I may just replace with some diodes to get up and running, or just shell out for a Mullard NOS...who knows.

The monoblocks look nearly stock, a few caps changed, a few resistors burnt but all in all pretty decent. Their valves were a bit worse for wear, a few cracked, a few lost the getter, but transformers thankfully seem okay. Original green 100R resistors are there also. The same can't be said about the Stereo 60 unfortunately...The green resistor has gone, and the mains transformer has been replaced, leading to the chassis being butchered to make it fit, as well as lot of other things been messed with. Initially when I looked at it there was a label of 300-0-300 so I thought I was okay, but on further research, it seems like the 60 used a 430V transformer, not 300! So I may be all out of luck there...

I've worked on plenty of solid state amps but nothing this seriously valve, messed around with some guitar amps but this is my first proper explore into valve territory. My uneducated thinking leads me to believe that it just won't have as much power output as it would have with the stock power transformer, is this right? If thats the case then I may be able to get away with using it, if not I may have to find a replacement. I found one online that is marketed as a Mullard 5-20 stereo replacement mains transformer with seemingly the close enough specs at 410-0-410 400ma, but not cheap at around £200 :(

There also seems to be some strange resistors mounted on top of the chassis, with terminal blocks and hot glue...can anyone explain what they are doing there?

I think I'll do one mono block first, get comfortable working with valves, I also reckon I have enough good valves to get one working. Then I'll attempt to tackle the 60, hopefully it wont be too much of a pain to get working again! With the pre amp and tuner, I'll probably get working again then stick on ebay, as I know they aren't really very well regarded units and I have no need for them, a rebuilt Bozak CMA 2DL will run pre amp duty in this system!

Heres some photos
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Original resistors on top of chassis were "Standees". They had a bad rep for reliability.

Do not simply fit silicon rectifiers to replace the valve one as considerable modification is required to do this safely!
 
Original resistors on top of chassis were "Standees". They had a bad rep for reliability.

Do not simply fit silicon rectifiers to replace the valve one as considerable modification is required to do this safely!

why would anyone want to put standees on on these amps?

Diodes would only be temporary whilst rebuilding the amp, I know that wouldn’t be wise long term :D
 
why would anyone want to put standees on on these amps?

I suspect it was that they were so huge there was nowhere logical to put them beneath. I’ve no idea, but did they run hot too?

It wouldn’t surprise me if most of those valves were still ok. The obvious wrong uns have lost vacuum, so the GZ37, two EL84s and one small one, an ECC81 by the looks of it are definitely bin jobs, but the rest may well test ok.

Leak power amps are very high gain, crazy so compared to modern amps, so you wouldn’t need anything more than a passive volume control for most usage scenarios. That’s how I use my Stereo 20 anyway. It is actually hard to use them with a lot of active preamps without modification as you just end up amplifying noise and have no travel on the volume knob.
 
why would anyone want to put standees on on these amps?

Diodes would only be temporary whilst rebuilding the amp, I know that wouldn’t be wise long term :D

Standees were original fitment.

it wouldn't be wise short term either.... you should get away with it purely because the bodge transformer is only 300V and the caps will be rated for the full volts of the original but take it up slow on a variac. Check out wiring of GZ34. it will likely be same as the 37 or very close. with lower Volts transformer it will handle it no problem.

OK just seen the pics now above and the GZ37 looks OK to me.
 
Even if you can't read the date codes on the valves, the logos tell you that there are various vintages, including recent in the sense that they were made not too long before Philips stopped manufacture/sales of valves. Also, Mullard logo means nothing in terms of where they were made, not even that they were made by Philips.

"Made in Great Britain" tells you more, but not even that means that they were made by Philips.

To be able to say anything definitive about any of the valves, you need the codes off the lower sides of the valves.
 
Looks like the Stereo 60 has had a Quad II (or ELS?) mains transformer fitted?

Ha! Now you point it out that may be it! Certainly the right shape and colour! If so it is being asked to do about twice what it wants to.

PS Spot on, picture here.
 
Looks like whoever fitted it did quite the hatchet job on the chassis sadly. If it was mine I’d get a new top plate made up - just enough for the entire transformer areas - and paint matched to cover that. I think Majestic Transformers would do a proper replacement Stereo 60 mains transformer. Likely not cheap though, but for a Stereo 60 likely worth it.
 
I guess the good thing there is now a Quad II transformer to sell, and they are worth a good few quid in working condition.
 
That is some good news to wake up to :)

Transformer is from a Quad 2! So hopefully selling that will bring me most of the money to be able to get a new transformer, which is fantastic. I was not looking forward to that, it would cost more than what I paid for the amp!

Also, the GZ34. I admit I’m not that knowledgable about valves, so when I saw it’s translucent top and the colouring on the bottom, I assumed it had burnt out. Looks like I won’t need to mess around with diodes after all.

In terms of the transformer, obviously it won’t do the job, but is running it at 300v okay for the time being? Or should I really not bother until the correct transformer is in there? I’ll get in touch with Majestic and see how much it’ll cost to get a new one made up.

Standees confused me as the pics I found online showed something similar to a cap where those resistors are. Another photo shows what looks like a huge cylindrical cement resistor, so I guess I’m all out of luck if I want something to match the chassis/caps
 
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That is some good news to wake up to :)

Transformer is from a Quad 2! So hopefully selling that will bring me most of the money to be able to get a new transformer, which is fantastic. I was not looking forward to that, it would cost more than what I paid for the amp!

Also, the GZ37. I admit I’m not that knowledgable about valves, so when I saw it’s translucent top and the colouring on the bottom, I assumed it had burnt out. Looks like I won’t need to mess around with diodes after all.

In terms of the transformer, obviously it won’t do the job, but is running it at 300v okay for the time being? Or should I really not bother until the correct transformer is in there? I’ll get in touch with Majestic and see how much it’ll cost to get a new one made up.

Standees confused me as the pics I found online showed something similar to a cap where those resistors are. Another photo shows what looks like a huge cylindrical cement resistor, so I guess I’m all out of luck if I want something to match the chassis/caps

There is some risk to the transformer itself in using it yes.... assuming it hasn't already been damaged of course.
A Quad II power amp has 5 valves total but the Leak has 8 so a lot more draw in filament current. The low HT will likely protect it rather on that front.
I wouldn't leave it on for more than say 1/2 hour and I'd change coupling caps before using it at all (they've been changed already but I wouldn't trust them). Sound quality will be well down anyway as it will be working much more towards class B than it should be.

Sowter transformers are another one who do at least some replacement Leak transformers but not sure if mains ones are included.
 
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Jez has made some very salient comments above. Even equipped with the original mains transformer, the Stereo 60 has justifiably or otherwise seemed to have acquired a bit of a reputation in vintage hi-fi circles for its long-term reliability

I owned one of these amps for several years and had it virtually completely rebuilt and revalved with NOS Mullard tubes. My impression was that in trying to emulate power amplifiers of the time like the Radford STA25, this particular model represented ' a bridge to far' in terms of design / implementation. The output transformers were IMHO not Leak's finest hour and in terms of aspects of presentation such as resolution of fine detail and tonal accuracy, I have to say that I much preferred the Stereo 20 and TL12+ models.

Nevertheless, Budney, the '60 is a rare piece of British audio history and as you have been lucky enough to have acquired the EL84 based monos as well, you will have the enjoyment of doing your own A-B comparisons and reaching your own conclusions on their relative sonic merits once all the amps have been restored . Good luck and happy Leak listening !
 
First you have done very well. And saved some classics from further deterioration.
But you know there is a but coming... as brecklandboy points out the Stereo 60 is not Arthur's finest. I agree the TL12+s will trounce the 60 in terms of detail and overall sonic performance. Also you will be surprised at how little difference there is in perceived power.
I would start with the TL12+s, not the Stereo 60. That is a shame that someone has butchered the chassis to fit the Quad mains transformer, what were they thinking? And there is no chance of getting replacement 'Standees' and so on.
 
First you have done very well. And saved some classics from further deterioration.
But you know there is a but coming... as brecklandboy points out the Stereo 60 is not Arthur's finest. I agree the TL12+s will trounce the 60 in terms of detail and overall sonic performance. Also you will be surprised at how little difference there is in perceived power.
I would start with the TL12+s, not the Stereo 60. That is a shame that someone has butchered the chassis to fit the Quad mains transformer, what were they thinking? And there is no chance of getting replacement 'Standees' and so on.

Arthur? Harold surely.... There was Arthur Radford.
 
The correct rectifier for the St60 turns out to be the GZ34...
Interestingly there is an attenuator switch at the input, visible in pics above.

Personally I'd be inclined to consider making a new amplifier around the output transformers, one unrelated to Leak but maybe more related to Radford... Chassis is butchered, original mains transformer AWOL and then there's the less than stellar reputation of the 60.
 


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