I can cope with replacing valves every year or so and do have efficient speakers. It's something (ie own a hifi I really can't afford but makes me feel like I've reached the top of what's almost affordable) I have to do before I turn into my inlaws.A Technics SL-G700 player/streamer and Genelec 8331As - So at least 5 ST20s worth. It started as a pair of Audioengine A2s I had in a cupboard and escalated from there. So my best advice is, accept you'll need to replace the valves every year or so.
I'm very glad to have both systems and couldn't live without either now. As for which I prefer, probably the Leak with bigger, more efficient speakers but it's a tough call and, surprisingly, they sound more alike than different.
This is probably very important. If you get one without exact known provenance be prepared for an expert to examine it and carry out work. Mine was rebuilt by Mike P and then further work carried out by GT so I'm confident.Bear in mind though that being so aged, and thus having had components inside changed, or needing to be changed, I suspect very many ST20's won't perform at the same level in terms of reliability and sound quality.
Thanks for your input/help too.Well I'm new to ST ownership myself. I've owned a lot of amps over the decades and this is the amp that'll see me through to the grave. I wouldn't use it for 10-15 hours a day though. I imagine it might be too costly in electricity and decent valve replacements. It's more for those occasions when I want to listen to music, not just have it on in the background. Personally I'd use a Quad 303 for long hours of background music because it combines cool running, reliability, is easily fixed if it does go wrong and sounds very good.
As Alex S says there is no biasing necessary on an ST20. I haven't experienced any ground loop issues with mine and there's only a faint low hum from the speakers which I can't hear from any more than a metre away. Bear in mind though that being so aged, and thus having had components inside changed, or needing to be changed, I suspect very many ST20's won't perform at the same level in terms of reliability and sound quality.
Does anyone have any idea what one costs in terms of electricity used per hour/day?
Thank you Tony, that's not as bad as I was expecting.I think there might be a Watt reading upthread somewhere. The TL-12 Plus monos take 75 Watts each, so 150 the pair. I think the Stereo 20 is less, about 125 Watt (just the one mains transformer). Think of it as a couple of old tungsten light bulbs in real terms.
For comparison my old Pass Aleph 3 (a 30 Watt class A amp) used 250 Watt, a Quad 303 about 50 (the Quad will take more if driven hard).
depends on your rate but around 4/5pence/hr should cover it.
depends on your rate but around 4/5pence/hr should cover it.
Thank you both, I'll hold off buying one till after Monday then!The power consumprion of a ST20 will be in the region of 125 watts as Tony says so about an eighth of a unit per hour, a bit under 4p an hour for most people in the UK (but going down a little on Monday).
I can cope with replacing valves every year or so and do have efficient speakers. It's something (ie own a hifi I really can't afford but makes me feel like I've reached the top of what's almost affordable) I have to do before I turn into my inlaws.
Bear in mind though that being so aged, and thus having had components inside changed, or needing to be changed, I suspect very many ST20's won't perform at the same level in terms of reliability and sound quality.
Has anyone here actually heard one of these valvepower amps?Looks like another reincarnation of the Stereo 20 is on the market :
https://valvepower.uk/index.html
Wonder if there’s any cross-over between Valve Power and English Acoustics in terms of parts? Will be interested to see what PCB they use. The VP iteration doesn’t look quite as nice as the EA, but then again is considerably cheaper at £1000, which seems extremely good value for money (the EA Stereo 21C model is around £7000+ now!), if one prefers to go modern rather than buy a restored Stereo 20.
With modern safety standards the plastic covers on modern electrolytic capacitors should be left in place. See my earlier post about replacing the power supply electrolytics and why you should leave the sleeves on the capacitors. Remember safety standards have changed significantly since the 1950s/60s.I'm puzzled by those ST20's I see with blue filter cap replacements. To me they are very incongruous. I sprayed my replacements. It was very easy.
I left mine on. They took the paint ok.With modern safety standards the plastic covers on modern electrolytic capacitors should be left in place. See my earlier post about replacing the power supply electrolytics and why you should leave the sleeves on the capacitors. Remember safety standards have changed significantly since the 1950s/60s.