Kef B-200 linn modifications

[jimmymcfarrell]

Now that I’ve got my active Sara’s (loosely) up & running I’ve found the internal bass driver is rubbing slightly.
Couple of questions hopefully someone will be able to answer:
How do you get the internal drivers out? I’ve had the baffles out from the cabinets and the front drivers removed from the baffles; but the Isobarik one remained steadfastly fixed to the rear of the baffle by the silicone.

Either way it’s got to come out, either to rotate or to replace.....which leads to next question.

I’ve bought a SP1014 B-200 for pocket money off eBay that is supposedly tested ok but what did Linn do to them before fitting them to the Sara?
Does the original dust cap have to come off before the white disc is fitted.
And what can I paint onto the basket to replicate the damping “paint” that Linn used.

Thoughts & suggestions greatly appreciated as always

 

[lexi]

Maybe paint with some black Dinitrol underseal. It is a polymer based rubber. You can thin black silicone with white spirit and try that.........watch the fumes or any contamination to other rubber etc. I normally use piano wire to cut silicone. Careful you don't damage basket or tabs behind the seal.

 

[hp1]

Linn did a few mods to the b110s and 200s, remove dust dome and add cardboard(b200) ,melt 4 holes in the cone behind dust dome ,stick aluminium to pole plate and thin bits on the basket, dope the cone and coat the basket and magnet in black lob.

I have some of the exact same lob if you need it.

To remove the rear driver I have screwed into one of the mounting holes a 12.9 hardness capscrew which will thread its self into the thin pressed steel, and pull.

But knowing what I know now id remove the baffle and push the driver out.

 

[jimmymcfarrell]

Thanks for the replies. Gives me some ideas to continue with.

dope the cone and coat the basket and magnet in black lob. I have some of the exact same lob if you need it.

What is this stuff? Not bitumen?

To remove the rear driver I have screwed into one of the mounting holes a 12.9 hardness capscrew which will thread its self into the thin pressed steel, and pull.

Thanks I will try this

But knowing what I know now id remove the baffle and push the driver out.

I tried this & it was so well adhered by the silicone I couldn’t get it to budge.

 

[hp1]

Hi,
The black goo is bitumen based but is kept usable with water ,once the water comes out it is as you have seen.

To remove the baffle there is a nut and repair washer behind the label on the cabinet rear panel. Use a stanley blade to cut a hole in the label rather than trying to remove the label as all the silver lettering parts company if you do.

Dont over tight this when reassembling, it will pull the brass insert out of the baffle and be royal pain to put right.