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Kaber Tweets advice please

Nic Robinson

Nic Robinson

Moderator
I was looking over some old notes and found a thread from the other forum where a chap said owners of older Kabers simply must get some SPKR015/3 tweeters. He implied these were easy to get s/h from Linn dealers. Well, I spoke to my local one and he for one doesn't keep such stuff.

1) Are these things going to change my life?
2) Where do I get them?
3) Are they easy to put in?

My system is LP12 Lingo 1/LVii/MC25FL/Avondale'd 42/LK100/Old Kabers (pre newer feet).

Thanks all,

Nic.
 
NIC, i have upgraded the hf and mid-bass units in my Kabers.
the units come from the ESPEK speaker i.e.soft dome treble units
with 3 vertical bars and the mid-bass units are a straightforward
change.
the sonic difference is worth the cost!.

Dennis
 
Cheers, Dennis.

I'm a bit behind - is the Espek a Linn speaker. If so do you get the units direct from Glasgow?

Cheers,

Nic.
 
I've put the Neodymium tweeters in my Kabers (soft dome, 3 bars, and miniscule magnets) but they lost all their drive, excitement and attack so I took them back out again. However I know of people who like them, so there's personal taste / system synergy at work.

If your Kabers have the Hiquphon tweeter (soft dome no protective bars or grille of any sort) then a change to any of the subsequent Tonagen units they used later (SPK015-1 to SPK015-5) would constitute a large improvement IMO.

I run mine with SPK015/1 Taken from some Tukans, as they had had the Hiquophon units in to start with. The SPK015/3 are regarded as being the best one to use it seems.

While you're at it, changing the padding resistor for the tweeter is worthwhile to drop the treble level slightly. Linn did this twice during the production run themselves. The earliest ones with the Hiquphon tweeters had 2R7 resistors, which became 3R9 over time with the later tweeters. Linn dealers were supplied with all the info to do earlier spec Kabers at the time. You can run any resistor value with any tweeter value though as far as I can make out. The resistor change was recommended for Kabers and occurd in two stages it seems, first change was to 3R3 then the final revision was to 3R9. This is supposed to knock 1dB off the top end.

Hope that helps

Cheers
 
Well,

I had a look yesterday and ound the current tweters have a fine grill over them. Does this mean that they are one of the Tonagen revisions?

Also, I had a go at undoing the 3 allen bolts and 3 screws and nothing came loose. How do you get the things out btw?

Cheers,

Nic.
 
Yes they will be Tonagen units, either SPK015/1 or /2.

Their gasket is foam and slightly sticky, this tends to hold them in. Once the 3 screws are out, it's a question of using your finger nail in the crack round the edge and encouraging it free. If using something else, be careful not to mark the cabinet. It will come out.

HTH

Cheers
 
Cheers, Timpy. As they're Tonagen, I'll go with what my ears have been telling me all along - they sound great!

Perhaps I'll save my pennies for some of Les's new speaker wire and replace my aged 04.

All the best,

Nic.
 
Hi Nic

Just re-reading for a moment, if you want to get them out, it's the allen bolts you want to take out to remove it from the cabinet.

The 3 actual screw headed screws (the inner ones), are at a guess, to hold the magnet assembly to the front plate (the bit that carries the tweeter dome!!!). Don't take these out, and if you do put them back asap!! If they go back (as they seem to have done, it will all still be aligned properly. Please just don't do it again!!

Cheers
 
Hi Richard

I'm not sure how these units work as I've never had one of them apart, but most tweeters seem to have the dome and any grille part as front of the faceplate, with screws just holding the magnet on the back. If this was the case, undoing the 3 screws wouldn't leave a hole in the middle where the dome / grille was, as they are often part of the face assembly (usually very well glued) and only the magnet assembly would be free. I'm just guessing for these particular tweeters of course, based on others.

Often I've found that the magnet is glued to the other side of the suspension on the faceplate as well for the ones I have had apart. Any actual dismantling of the drivers I tend to shy away from. Saw a voice coil that had got caught in the magnet gap on a pair of Mordaunt Shorts recently where the magnet assebly had broken away from it's mounting ....nasty mess...

Cheers
 
In Scanspeaks, when you unscrew the inner screws, the faceplate comes away from the entire assembly. Of course, I haven't taken apart any other tweeters and thus there could be differences between manufacturers.
 
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