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Is a subwoofer needed with full range speakers

INTERESTING READ TO NAVELGAZE

A repost from AUDIOGON and CANUCKAUDIOMART that is s good summation of the conflicting strengths and warts in setting up a subwoofer(s...?) properly and - more importantly - key considerations you would weigh first to do so.

It was first posted by the audio mag author in the link immediately below, that may no longer be valid.

http://ultrafi.com/why-everybody-needs-a-good-subwoofer/


August 3, 2008 by ultrafi in Tips, Tricks & Info | Comments Off on Why Everybody Needs a Good Subwoofer…

" …And Why a Really Good Subwoofer is so Hard to Find

Audiophiles and music lovers are missing out on one of the most dramatic improvements they can make to their audio system: Powered Subwoofers. Most audiophiles won’t even use the word “subwoofer” in public, let alone plug one in to their precious systems. There is a kind of snobbery that exists in the world of high-end audio aimed primarily at receivers, car audio, home theater and especially subwoofers. As a matter of fact, subwoofers are responsible for many people disliking both car audio and home theater, since it is the subwoofer in both of those situations that tends to call attention to the system and cause many of the problems.

The truth of the matter is that subwoofers have fully earned their bad reputation. They usually suck. Most of them sound boomy, muddy and out of control with an obnoxious bass overhang that lingers so long as to blur most of the musical information up until the next bass note is struck. We have all had our fair share of bad subwoofer experiences, whether it’s from a nearby car thumping so loud that it appears to be bouncing up off the road, or a home theater with such overblown bass that it causes you to feel nauseous half-way through the movie. You would think that high-end audio manufacturers would be above all of that, but you would be wrong. In many cases, their subwoofers are almost as bad as the mass-market models because they too, are trying to capitalize on the home theater trend that is sweeping the land.

You see, it’s very difficult and expensive to build a good subwoofer. One reason is that a sub has to move a tremendous amount of air, which places big demands on the driver (or drivers). Moving lots of air requires a lot of power and that means an amp with a huge power supply, which can cost huge money. Finally, in trying to move all of this air, the driver (or drivers) which operate in an enclosure, create tremendous pressure inside of the box itself. The cabinet walls must be able to handle this pressure without flexing or resonating. Building such a box involves heavy damping and bracing which gets very expensive. When you consider these requirements, you quickly realize that it is virtually impossible to build a really good subwoofer (I mean good enough for a high-end music system) for under $1000. Yet most of the subwoofers out there sell for between $500 and $900. Manufacturers do this because their marketing research has shown them that that is what people want to spend on a sub, never mind the fact that what people want to spend and what it takes to get the job done right may be two different things. The result is that even most high-end manufacturers are putting out poorly constructed subwoofers that just don’t sound very good.

I don’t want to give you the impression that anyone who really wants to can build a good subwoofer so long as they are willing to throw enough money at the problem, because that really isn’t true either. There are some pretty expensive and well-constructed subwoofers out there that you would never want to plug into your music system because they would most certainly make the sound worse. Why? Because of their crossovers. A crossover is inserted into your signal path in order to remove the lowest frequencies (the deep bass) from your main speakers so that they no longer have to do all of the dirty work. The deep bass will instead be dealt with by the subwoofer. The #1 benefit of adding a high quality subwooferto your system is not how it further extends the bass response, but how it can dramatically improve the sound of your existing power amp and main speakers from the midrange on up. That, my friends, is by far the most compelling reason to add a sub to your high-end music system. Once your main speakers are freed from the burden of making deep bass, they will sound cleaner, faster and clearer, especially in the midrange and midbass. They will also image way better because there will be far less air pressure and therefore resonance and vibration affecting their cabinet walls. And since the power required to make the deep bass is provided by the subwoofer’s built-in amplifier, your main power amp will be free from that burden and begin to sound like a much more powerful amplifier. The one big problem with all of this is that you need a crossover to roll off the deep bass in your system and achieve all of these benefits. And the crossover that comes with almost every subwoofer on the market will cause more damage to your signal than can be overcome by these benefits. That is the main reason that audiophiles refuse to consider adding subwoofers, even very expensive ones with well built cabinets.

Enter the Vandersteen 2Wq 300 watt powered subwoofer. This is the only subwoofer that is specifically designed to be inserted into the highest of high-end music systems without doing any harm to the precious signal. So how does Vandersteen do it? Simply. In fact his crossover scheme is so ingeniously simple that it’s a wonder nobody else thought of doing it the same way. I’ll spare you an in-depth description and just say that the only thing you end up inserting into your system is a couple of high quality capacitors. That’s it, nothing more! No additional wires or gadgets enter your signal path. Hell, you don’t even have to disconnect the wire between your amp and speakers to add this subwoofer. The model 2Wq sub uses the same basic crossover scheme as the $15,000 flagship Model 5As. As a matter of fact, you can even run the specially designed Model 5A crossovers (M5-HP) with the 2Wq if you want the most transparent sound imaginable.

So what about the other reason to add a subwoofer to your system: for more powerful and extended bass? I don’t care how big your main speakers are, they’re no match for a good subwoofer in the bass. A really good subwoofer can run rings around the best floorstanding speakers when it comes to bass extension, power and control because it is designed to be good at that and nothing but that, whereas main speakers have to be good at higher frequencies as well. Ideally, you want two subwoofers so that you have true stereo separation down deep into the bass. Stereo subs can also help to lessen room interaction problems by providing two discrete sources of bass information. Remember, if you can’t afford to buy two subwoofers at once, you can always add the second one later. Adding a pair of 300 watt powered subwoofers is exactly like adding a pair of 300 watt monoblock amplifiers to your system and upgrading to a pair of better main speakers at the same time. The beauty is that you don’t have to replace your main power amp or speakers to do it.

But there is a problem here as well. Everything comes at a price, and the price you pay with most subwoofers is that when you add them and their built-in amplifiers to your system, they don’t tend to blend or integrate well with the sound of your power amp and speakers. This is especially true if you own a tube amp, because the character of your amp is nothing like the character of the big solid-state amp that is built into most subwoofers. The result is that your system sounds split in half. You can hear where one part of the system leaves off (namely your amp and speakers) and where the other part takes over (the sub and its amp). This is a HUGE problem for audiophiles who aren’t willing to destroy their system’s coherence for additional power and bass extension. Fortunately, Vandersteen has the perfect solution for this problem that is, again, so simple, I wonder why nobody else thought of it first. His solution is to build a very powerful 300 watt amplifier that strictly provides the huge current needed to drive the subwoofer. You can think of this amplifier as only half of an amplifier; or just the power portion of an amplifier. The release of this power is controlled by the signal that is provided by your power amp. Vandersteen’s amplifier needs a voltage to modulate its current output, and what better place to get that voltage than from your main power amp? This way, your power amplifier is directly responsible for the sonic character of the deep bass coming from the subwoofer because it provides the necessary voltage signal. This voltage signal contains the unique and characteristic sound of your main power amplifier and insures that that character is maintained in the sound of the subwoofer itself. The beauty of it is that your amplifier is only providing a voltage reference and no actual current, so it is not taxed with the burden of “driving” the subwoofer in any way. As a matter of fact, your amplifier doesn’t even know that the sub is connected to it. The 2Wq’s potential is almost unlimited given that it will ratchet up its performance as you improve your power amp. Remember that you always want your subwoofer to sound just like your power amp. No better, no worse. NO DIFFERENT!

After having spent time with the amazing Vandersteen Model 5A loudspeakers with their 400-watt powered, metal cone subwoofers, we were reminded of the sound we had with the awesome Audio Research Reference 600 mono power amps. With the Ref 600s there was a sense of effortlessness, openness and unrestricted dynamic freedom that we have only otherwise heard with live unamplified music. Listening to those monstrously powerful amps made us realize that all other systems sound compressed by comparison. Only when we heard the new Vandersteen Model 5As with their hugely powerful built-in subwoofers, did we again have a strikingly similar sonic experience. The reason is that the Model 5As provide a total of 800 high-quality watts, to which you have to remember to add the power of the amp we were using, the ARC VT-100, at 200 watts. This means we were listening to about 1000 total watts of amplifier power – not far from the 1200 total watts provided by the Ref 600s. With the Vandersteen subwoofer crossover and amplifier, you are able to get those hundreds of subwoofer watts to blend seamlessly and even take on the character of the ARC VT-100. It’s amazing! What’s even better is that the price of the system with the Model 5As and the VT-100 is under half the cost of the Ref 600s alone! Since this discovery, we have achieved the same kind of unbelievable dynamics and seamless blending with ProAc loudspeakers and twin Vandersteen 2Wq 300 watt powered subs. So, if you want the sound of Ref 600s but cannot afford them, buy a pair of Model 5As or your favorite pair of ProAcs plus a couple of 2Wq subwoofers and mate them with a VT100 and you’ll get surprisingly close. You can cut the cost even further by running a pair of Vandersteen 2Wq 300-watt subwoofers with your existing speakers. Or mate a pair of 2Wqs with your favorite ProAc. In any case, it is the magic of SUBWOOFERS that allows this to happen. It is for all of the above reasons that there is only one subwoofer in existence capable of integrating seamlessly into a high-end music system, allowing you to reap all of the benefits of having a subwoofer, with none of the drawbacks. And the Vandersteen 2Wq is the one. And just in case you think I am a biased source, our correspondent Blaine Peck (who, for all you know is also a biased source) recently wrote the following, with no discussion between us about the topic prior to his sending us his comments. Whether reproducing the plucked string of an acoustic bass or the sound of an analog synthesizer, the Vandersteen 2Wq subwoofer is a seamless extension of any system. Nothing else need be added! With its internal 300-watt power amplifier, it is the perfect compliment to any sound system. Designed to take on the characteristics of your main stereo amplifier, the amp in the 2Wq will not sound foreign in your system. Also, through an extension of the Vandersteen design philosophy, a unique gradually sloping crossover system is implemented so you simply do not know where your main speakers stop and the 2Wq begins.

Now that your main speaker/amplifier combination need not concern themselves with those power demanding low frequencies, they are freed up to work in a more comfortable range. Yes, now what is coming from your main speakers will sound better than ever.

The 2Wq is not just another subwoofer. It consists of three 8″ floor-facing drivers, each with a massive motor. So why not a more typical single 12″ or 15″ design? Well frankly, the mass of a larger driver will not allow it to respond as quickly as the Vandersteen 8″ drivers to today’s demanding recordings. The 2Wq’s 8″ drivers are designed to handle the content but be “fleet of foot” at the same time. Concerned about where to put them? You need not worry. With the control of both its respective level and the “q” (how loose or tight the low end is) you have the flexibility to place them in a location that fits your living environment and not sacrifice performance. The simple beauty of this product will soon become an addition to your room.

So whether on orchestral music, hard rock or something in between, the Vandersteen 2Wq will exceed your expectations...."


Is this really true?

« Once your main speakers are freed from the burden of making deep bass, they will sound cleaner, faster and clearer, especially in the midrange and midbass. . . . And since the power required to make the deep bass is provided by the subwoofer’s built-in amplifier, your main power amp will be free from that burden and begin to sound like a much more powerful amplifier. «

As far as the point he makes about crossover, I can well imagine it’s true because of my experience comparing two crossovers from Gradient subwoofers. But what I don’t understand is why crossover technology should be such a problem here, after all every speaker with more than one driver includes crossovers so I suppose the technology is well understood.
 
Is this really true?

« Once your main speakers are freed from the burden of making deep bass, they will sound cleaner, faster and clearer, especially in the midrange and midbass. . . . And since the power required to make the deep bass is provided by the subwoofer’s built-in amplifier, your main power amp will be free from that burden and begin to sound like a much more powerful amplifier. «
The article contains a lot of audiophile nonsense and is essentially an advert so I guess it is up to Tony to judge if the relevant content outweighs the spam content. However, the point about properly integrated subwoofers cleaning up the sound of the mains is true. This requires the subwoofer or a box of electronics to send a high passed signal to the mains without the low frequency content handled by the subwoofers. Many home audio subwoofers don't do this but most pro subwoofers do. The result is a cleaner midrange as shown by the measurements here (click "measurement descriptions" here) in the section on intermodulation distortion.
 
Yes, some truth in that review about relieving the speakers and amp of bass duties, therefore freeing up the mids of the speakers etc.

Nonsense about the 8 inch drivers having lower mass and being faster though. This all depends on the driver cone mass vs it’s motor force and amplifier power.
 
So i have a nice audio system that i have been happy with for a while. With a auralic vega as the source/Dac. Mcintosh 302 amplifier. And some focal 948s.

Really nice full sound. Something that took me a while to find. Listening and owning many speakers, from B&W 683/700/802 etc, kef q700, klipsch, paradigm signature/monitor/prestiege, Polk Audio RTI 9/LSI, proac response, martin logan ESL, Dynaudio excite.

It brings me to the new point in the road where i have the chance to upgrade my system if possible. Problem is, that it becomes more difficult to make further gains at higher price levels.

I was thinking about a subwoofer. But i question the need for one with adequate full range speakers that can dig down to 40hz before roll off occurs. With this situation, would a subwoofer filling this small 20hz-40hz gap, really make a big enough difference. At least for 5k worth. Theres also the difficulty of implementation where the list goes on. If you can work to prevent or solve these integration issues. I ask again. Is the 20hz bandwidth enough to make a good enough effect for the investment.

Another possibility could be to upgrade my main speakers (something like focal electra/kanta, monitor audio gold, b&w702, 804d3).

I am planning to invest in some decent acoustic treatment. So that will be a nice change.

Any thoughts is appreciated. Is adamdea around ?. :)
Oh hello Dan
[apologies I havent read the rest of the thread, so this may have all been covered and rejected]
I think the sub is a very good idea. As is the acoustical treatment. I guess it depnds what sort of music you listen to but filling in 20 -40 hz is a good idea. There is real audible information there so why not? That said of course more bass could = more bass problems with room modes, hence the need for acoustical treatment. It is worth bearing in mind thiough that one advantage of using subs can be to take some of the strain of the main speakers (if you use the subs in series with the main speakers with a high pass filter on the sub output. But this seems to be more common with pro subs to connect with active speakers) I don't know how big your room is, but i would have thoght you could get an improvement without having to spend as much as £5k. two subs rather than one. In addition or instread you could consider some digital room correction using minidsp or dspeaker- if nothing else the measurement side of this might help to tell you how low and how flat your current speakers in room response is and would help identify what you need to do next.

Once you get into this area it becomes a bit of a project rather than a simple-install-new-box scenario.
ps I'm a domestic pussy these days and don't bother with subs (at least for music) as they would be banned on aesthetic grounds.
 
I pulled my finger out and finally increased the gain on my subs to obtain a response that gets closer to the "-10dB slope from 20Hz to 20kHz" recommendation. As my listening session progressed last night my ears were beginning to feel fatigued, then I developed a headache and eventually felt nauseous. I don't want to jump to conclusions, but as this has never happened before, it's too much of a coincidence to ignore the fact that I increased the LF level only a matter of hours earlier. Switching my main speakers off to listen to the subs in isolation, they sounded surprisingly loud. Perhaps my body doesn't enjoy full-range sound and I need to dial the level back a bit?!

This is the averaged left/right response of the system with and without subs and EQ at the listening seat:
48108647717_046597b0d1_b.jpg


This is the raw response of the subs at the listening seat before I apply a -3dB notch filter at 44Hz to the entire system:
48108539156_8f7d08d6e3_b.jpg
 
I pulled my finger out and finally increased the gain on my subs to obtain a response that gets closer to the "-10dB slope from 20Hz to 20kHz" recommendation. As my listening session progressed last night my ears were beginning to feel fatigued, then I developed a headache and eventually felt nauseous. I don't want to jump to conclusions, but as this has never happened before, it's too much of a coincidence to ignore the fact that I increased the LF level only a matter of hours earlier. Switching my main speakers off to listen to the subs in isolation, they sounded surprisingly loud. Perhaps my body doesn't enjoy full-range sound and I need to dial the level back a bit?!

This is the averaged left/right response of the system with and without subs and EQ at the listening seat:
48108647717_046597b0d1_b.jpg


This is the raw response of the subs at the listening seat before I apply a -3dB notch filter at 44Hz to the entire system:
48108539156_8f7d08d6e3_b.jpg

Are your 2 measurements “no subs” and “subs” level matched?
Looks a bit strange around 75hz and between 400hz and 3khz.
 
Are your 2 measurements “no subs” and “subs” level matched?
Looks a bit strange around 75hz and between 400hz and 3khz.
The "subs" measurements includes an EQ filter to reduce the midrange as it's a bit forward without EQ (I forgot to engage that filter for the "no subs" measurement).

I'm not sure what the reason is for the difference at 75Hz, perhaps the mic moved slightly, perhaps I was standing in a different area of the room, perhaps the door was fractionally ajar, or maybe the subs are cancelling out the response despite being set to roll off at 40Hz?
 
The "subs" measurements includes an EQ filter to reduce the midrange as it's a bit forward without EQ (I forgot to engage that filter for the "no subs" measurement).

I'm not sure what the reason is for the difference at 75Hz, perhaps the mic moved slightly, perhaps I was standing in a different area of the room, perhaps the door was fractionally ajar, or maybe the subs are cancelling out the response despite being set to roll off at 40Hz?

Maybe try and take the subs measurement again without the midrange EQ applied?
It does look like a phase cancellation at 75hz, but hard to know.
 
Oh hello Dan
[apologies I havent read the rest of the thread, so this may have all been covered and rejected]
I think the sub is a very good idea. As is the acoustical treatment. I guess it depnds what sort of music you listen to but filling in 20 -40 hz is a good idea. There is real audible information there so why not? That said of course more bass could = more bass problems with room modes, hence the need for acoustical treatment. It is worth bearing in mind thiough that one advantage of using subs can be to take some of the strain of the main speakers (if you use the subs in series with the main speakers with a high pass filter on the sub output. But this seems to be more common with pro subs to connect with active speakers) I don't know how big your room is, but i would have thoght you could get an improvement without having to spend as much as £5k. two subs rather than one. In addition or instread you could consider some digital room correction using minidsp or dspeaker- if nothing else the measurement side of this might help to tell you how low and how flat your current speakers in room response is and would help identify what you need to do next.

Once you get into this area it becomes a bit of a project rather than a simple-install-new-box scenario.
ps I'm a domestic pussy these days and don't bother with subs (at least for music) as they would be banned on aesthetic grounds.

Hey adam, good to hear from ya. Thanks for your time also.

Yes i questioned the benefits of such a small bandwidth between 20hz-40hz but was reminded that thia is an octave. Which i didnt think of it that way before and as such it would hold the same acoustical value as a higher octave with more bandwidth. But questions remain on the content that would utilize this band.

Using subs as a way to equalize bass response ia obvious to me a superior option compared to acoustic treatment. But this difficulty in doing this is high, with integration complexities. So this is making it hard for me to choose this route. I do not want to sacrifice the simplicity and equipments that i currently use.

All the best to you :)
 
Dan

You asked if their was a one box solution to digitally control the sub and main speakers crossovers. There are options here, that could make sense in your £5000 budget.

You could look at th Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 either as an all in one amp or a pre amp. Retails at £2800 but come up second hand at about £1800 and two BW 2 boundary woofers about £1100 each.

You can cross over the subs at up to 800hz but you may find 400 works better. With all the bass work removed from your main speakers you will get benefits to the SQ with what they are left with. You need to be able to place the subs on a back wall behind or to the side of your main speakers.

If you want to put your main speakers Right up against the back wall , you can, in fact they encourage it. This reduces boundary interference as the reflection is immediately additive which can be controlled by DSP.

No need for strange looking room treatments , just make sure you have some functional furniture and furnishings like rugs , bookcases , soft furnishings etc.

The Lyngdorf DSP software is very easy to setup and works fantastically.

I personally have the newer TDAI3400 which I use with Proac tablette 10 signature monitors and 1 Rel Stentor III as I don't have the layout in my living room for TV, fish tank and HIFI with 2 subs. I'm super pleased with the results and I don't even have my monitors against the wall. My set up is absolutely abysmal from a hifi 101 perspective my monitors are either side of the TV 2ft from back wall, one speaker is just 7 inches from my chimney breast. The other speaker usually has a door open 5 inches to the side of it. My sofas are both right up against walls opposite and to the side of the hifi.

Getting a great wide and deep soundstage and super clear midrange vocals , plus I really enjoy that bottom octave.
 
What would be my simplest route to room measurement as a beginner- is there a decent app and what hardware would I need like mic etc?
 
Thanks, would the minidsp umik mic be a good choice?
I have a Shure lightning iPad mic already but that runs on its own app and therefore I’m unsure that it could work for measurement

That Mic is the ideal style, you can get away with a much cheaper one if you wished.
 
Hey adam, good to hear from ya. Thanks for your time also.

Yes i questioned the benefits of such a small bandwidth between 20hz-40hz but was reminded that thia is an octave. Which i didnt think of it that way before and as such it would hold the same acoustical value as a higher octave with more bandwidth. But questions remain on the content that would utilize this band.

Using subs as a way to equalize bass response ia obvious to me a superior option compared to acoustic treatment. But this difficulty in doing this is high, with integration complexities. So this is making it hard for me to choose this route. I do not want to sacrifice the simplicity and equipments that i currently use.

All the best to you :)
And to you Dan.
Hope you find a solution you like.
 
Dan

You asked if their was a one box solution to digitally control the sub and main speakers crossovers. There are options here, that could make sense in your £5000 budget.

You could look at th Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 either as an all in one amp or a pre amp. Retails at £2800 but come up second hand at about £1800 and two BW 2 boundary woofers about £1100 each.

You can cross over the subs at up to 800hz but you may find 400 works better. With all the bass work removed from your main speakers you will get benefits to the SQ with what they are left with. You need to be able to place the subs on a back wall behind or to the side of your main speakers.

If you want to put your main speakers Right up against the back wall , you can, in fact they encourage it. This reduces boundary interference as the reflection is immediately additive which can be controlled by DSP.

No need for strange looking room treatments , just make sure you have some functional furniture and furnishings like rugs , bookcases , soft furnishings etc.

The Lyngdorf DSP software is very easy to setup and works fantastically.

I personally have the newer TDAI3400 which I use with Proac tablette 10 signature monitors and 1 Rel Stentor III as I don't have the layout in my living room for TV, fish tank and HIFI with 2 subs. I'm super pleased with the results and I don't even have my monitors against the wall. My set up is absolutely abysmal from a hifi 101 perspective my monitors are either side of the TV 2ft from back wall, one speaker is just 7 inches from my chimney breast. The other speaker usually has a door open 5 inches to the side of it. My sofas are both right up against walls opposite and to the side of the hifi.

Getting a great wide and deep soundstage and super clear midrange vocals , plus I really enjoy that bottom octave.

Thanks for that suggestion, i will have a look into this for sure.
 
If you can only get 1 sub, like me then you can only cross over at 80hz max. Which is what I use. I would reccomend the stereo pair of boundary subwoofers if you have the space.
 
if your speakers are full range, definitely not necessary to have a sub.

The idea that a sub can give enough bass to speakers like P3esr is a myth. Bass freq are from about 40hz to 150hz. a sub crossed to the p3esr at 80hz will help but wont change the limitations of the small speakers in the 80 to 150hz.

personally, ill take a speaker that can do -6db at 40hz and -10db at 30hz and stick with that rather then adding a sub, ive never been able to make my subs integrate perfectly as to not be noticeble. My solution was to get bigger speaker.

I'm using now 10 inch 2 ways, ill never go lower then a 8 inch based speakers.
 
if your speakers are full range, definitely not necessary to have a sub.

The idea that a sub can give enough bass to speakers like P3esr is a myth. Bass freq are from about 40hz to 150hz. a sub crossed to the p3esr at 80hz will help but wont change the limitations of the small speakers in the 80 to 150hz.

personally, ill take a speaker that can do -6db at 40hz and -10db at 30hz and stick with that rather then adding a sub, ive never been able to make my subs integrate perfectly as to not be noticeble. My solution was to get bigger speaker.

I'm using now 10 inch 2 ways, ill never go lower then a 8 inch based speakers.

What 2 ways with 10inch driver are you using out of interest?
 


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