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Help - joining rubber drive belts

I am puzzled why you do not want to try making a polyester belt.

Not sure there would be enough stretch in polyester thread for my application as there is not much "give" in the motor suspension (2mm tops) and I don't want to increase the "side" load on the platter. If I can increase the elasticity in the mout I might give it a go, but that might be difficult.

Only done about 4 hrs since the belt repair due to a fault with the switch. Now replaced so will get some use over w/end when I'll also be breaking-in some new front-end caps on my 323 based phono amp.

Thanks again everyone for your contributions.
AP
 
I think you are correct in assuming that there is not much stretch in a polyester belt, but mine seems to have stretched somewhat in use. However, the stiffness of the belt seems to be the cause of the improvement in performance, though if you motor is not sufficiently isolated more vibration may be transmitted by a stiffer belt.

If you want more stretch then why not try fewer turns? The polyester thread I used is strong enough to be used with only one turn. I used four turns to make it stiffer and less likely to stretch.
 
My last repair only lasted about 6 hrs use.:(
Adopted the "eguth method" which has so far given 10 hrs and counting.:)
Best,
AP
 
You seem to have made progress.

If you find that the belt fractures in less than a year and you are not using 'Zap a Gap' superglue (obtainable from Axminster Power Tools) it is worth a try.

Do let us know if and when you get a fracture and what adhesive you used.
 
You seem to have made progress.

If you find that the belt fractures in less than a year and you are not using 'Zap a Gap' superglue (obtainable from Axminster Power Tools) it is worth a try.

Do let us know if and when you get a fracture and what adhesive you used.

I used locktite precision (bought from B&Q) and will continue to monitor things.

Hope to put some hrs in over Easter w/end.

Thanks and best,
AP
 
I used Locktite years ago, but I can't remember whether it was called 'precision' or not; in any case they may have changed the formula since then.

Do let us know if it does the job or not.

The difference between most superglues I have tried and Zap a Gap is that Zap fills in gaps- presumably even microscopic ones- and it seems to be much stronger than the rest.
 
square-cut, simple end to end with any superglue has worked on all my rubber TT belts. Never had a joint failure.
 
A home-joined old LP12 belt is driving my Origin Live motored Townsend Rock as I post, and sounding mighty fine.
 


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