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Help identifying LP12 screws etc.

Seanm

Seanm

pfm Member
I've managed to get hold of all the major parts of an LP12 and next week I'll have some time to put them together. But from experience I know that having carved out the time and laid everything out I'll find I'm missing some crucial bolt or other.

Thought I'd see if I could get some help identifying the things that came with the deck, first of all:

52672904039_046c5faed0_c.jpg


What are they for? What else do I need? P-clips! The motor came with the 2 mounting screws, and the Alto subchassis and armboard are already bolted together. Plinth and top plate are already attached and I have some spare chassis bolts in case the ones already attached are bent. I have a Lingo 1 - not quite sure how that attaches.

Any advice welcome.
 
Might be worth downloading the LP12 setup guides from the Cymbiosis website. Lots of photos so you should be able to ID most bits. Looks like you are missing a few. I can see nuts for the suspension and top plate. Possibly wood screws for baseboard.
 
Paul Hindle said:
Might be worth downloading the LP12 setup guides from the Cymbiosis website. Lots of photos so you should be able to ID most bits. Looks like you are missing a few. I can see nuts for the suspension and top plate. Possibly wood screws for baseboard.
Click to expand...
Cheers, just discovered the exploded diagram on their site, should do the trick.
 
So hard to tell from pictures, plus it is ages (decades) since I took an LP12 apart. That caveat aside what you have there makes little sense to my eyes.

The only wood screws I’m aware of in an LP12 are six that hold the baseboard and rubber feet on, and three really tiny ones that hold the armboard to the subchassis. I can’t remember any others. As such the numbers you have don’t make any sense to me. I suspect the longer type would be for the rubber feet, the shorter for the other baseboard locations, and none for the subchassis (these are smaller as I remember them).

The three lock-nuts at the very bottom may be from the suspension if they are M5, though if they were you’d likely have a lot more parts e.g. springs, grommets, washers etc.

The three allen bolts may be to hold a old (pre-Cirkus/Cirkus) bearing to the subchassis. Possibly to fix a Linn arm to an armboard.

I don’t recognise anything else.
 
The 10 shorter screws are for fastening a newer baseboard, two in each corner and two in the middle using the rectangular washer. The other two shorter screws hold the strain relief for the A/C cable to the plinth. There would be 4 longer screws that fasten the cross brace to the block on the plinth.
 
Might add up but it's not right!

None of those screws are for armboards they're all way too long.

The rectangular washers go with screws in the middle of the two long sides to hold the basebaord on. The four corners of most older baseboards are held by the feet and four longer screws, of which you only seem to have 3 (and no feet on display).

Newer baseboards and trampolins need 10 screws which looks like what you have in the shorter ones.

Four screws for the cross brace not shown plus two long bolts and various washers ?

Those 3 allen bolts and grip washers are to hold a Linn arm collar on

The screws that hold on the hinges should be countersunk so I don' think you have those.

The two sets of nuts are for the long bolts that mount the subchassis (no long bolts on show).

Springs, washers and grommets also required.

No motor bolts, adjustment screws, lead hemisphers or washers on show which are needed to mount and adjust the older ac motors.

There are also two woodscrews which secure the top plate to the plinth not shown.

If you have the top plate with a stud on it then you also need the nylock nut to go on that.
 
colasblue said:
The screws that hold on the hinges should be countersunk so I don' think you have those.
Click to expand...

No, they're like the ones he has. I can't remember the size but I have a bag of them upstairs.

I think he has baseboard screws, foot screws (-1) Linn arm collar bolts and crown washers, baseboard washers and six nuts for the spring hanger bolts. The flanged ones are for fixing the bolts to the top-pate.
 
Just a point of order, the chassis bolts (long suspension ones) don’t bend. The tool to level them bends the steel top plate.
Also don’t put the woodscrews in the wrong place, you’ll end up stripping the threads in the wood.

If you need a setup jig you can borrow mine.
 
The top line of shorter screws (3.5x13) are used in various places on a LP12. 2 of them secure the top plate to the plinth from above, 4 of them secure the cross brace inside to the plinth. 2 of them secure a wiring clamp to the cross brace and 2 of them would secure the middle edges of the baseboard. For the optional aluminium or Trampolin baseboards they also use 10 of these screws along with those oblong washers (centre of the front and rear edges) you have pictured. 8 of these also secure the hinge plates (no not countersunk).

The longer screws (3.5x19) secure the power cable wiring via a cable clamp at the back of the plinth. 4 of the them would secure the feet to the plinth and clamp the baseboard in the corners and you sometimes see them used to secure the baseboard in the centre edges front and rear.

Next you have some M5 flange nuts. 2 of which secure the two main top plate studs front and rear to the wiring strap wiring strap. You need 2 of some M5 penny washers under there. If you have a top plate with the extra stud in the motor corner you would use one of these with the same washer in that corner at very low torque (just enough to stop the washer rotating if you try to twist it).

Next you have three serrated washers and three m6 bolts that secure the tonearm base to the armboard (on a Linn arm) from underneath the armboard.

Finally you have three M5 turret nuts that secure your springs down on the three spring hangers with one of those M5 penny washers.

All the bolts should not be over tightened, the days of ‘Linn tight’ are long gone. Nip them up plus a quarter of a turn is enough for most things. For the screws, especially feet and base board, just nip them up otherwise they’ll strip the fragile thread in the wood.

Download Peter Swains guides from the Cymbiosis we site if you do not already have them.

Good Luck!
 
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Thanks everyone, this is all really helpful. I think I'll be able to source all the fixings.
 
Make sure you buy a new set of springs and washers, especially buy the new type washers as they are flatter & wider. If you really fancy, it makes good sense to buy half a dozen springs so you can choose the most bouncy/springy ones & put the stiffest one next to the arm collar so it does not compress so much.
 
Well I think I have everything ordered, thanks again for all the help. Bloody hell it's a lot of fixings. Just trying to think how many are involved in putting the Orbe together and unless I'm missing something it's 3 bolts and spacers for the armboard and a cable tie. Not that one should compare :).

One last question (on this round): my used Lingo 1 came with spacers and screws attached:

52675564933_241fd970c7_c.jpg


That's all I need, right? It's just it's a different method from the one suggested by the exploded diagram, which involves spacers like this:

https://lp12bits.com/collections/fixings/products/circuit-board-spaces-new-ref-001198
 
Seanm said:
Well I think I have everything ordered, thanks again for all the help. Bloody hell it's a lot of fixings. Just trying to think how many are involved in putting the Orbe together and unless I'm missing something it's 3 bolts and spacers for the armboard and a cable tie. Not that one should compare :).

One last question (on this round): my used Lingo 1 came with spacers and screws attached:

52675564933_241fd970c7_c.jpg


That's all I need, right? It's just it's a different method from the one suggested by the exploded diagram, which involves spacers like this:

https://lp12bits.com/collections/fixings/products/circuit-board-spaces-new-ref-001198
Click to expand...

Remember each bolt, nut, screw & washer is numbered like an Ikea kit. Don't get this wrong. You might have to take it apart again :p
 
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