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Feet (not Spikes) for Speaker Stands

This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
first impressions are that granite and marble are too stiff to provide any useful damping, but as I, too, have found with mdf (which has very little damping either) that the carpet/underlay does seem to confer some damping. Of course, it must also be stated that 'isolating' with spikes can have another negative effect, and that is if vibrations cannot be channeled down into the support, it will continue to be a problem, and likely the vibrations in the box walls will build over time to a larger amplitude!

I think its it's actually the combination of the mass of the granite/ marble placed on the
carpet and underlay that provides the 'damping'
 
FWIW another thing I’m now pretty much convinced about is that fairly thick self-adhesive felt furniture feet are a far better speaker/stand interface than either spikes/cones or Blu-Tac. Just stick them to the top of the stand and they work a treat sounding somewhere between the better traits of the two. They obviously don’t scratch or stain the cabinet bases either, but neither do they ‘stick’ the speakers so I’d still use Blu-Tac if kids or pets were a risk factor. I keep meaning to try sorbothene or whatever but felt is so good to my ears I don’t bother. I’d actually try them on the stand bases if I had exposed floorboards.
 
FWIW another thing I’m now pretty much convinced about is that fairly thick self-adhesive felt furniture feet are a far better speaker/stand interface than either spikes/cones or Blu-Tac. Just stick them to the top of the stand and they work a treat sounding somewhere between the better traits of the two. They obviously don’t scratch or stain the cabinet bases either, but neither do they ‘stick’ the speakers so I’d still use Blu-Tac if kids or pets were a risk factor. I keep meaning to try sorbothene or whatever but felt is so good to my ears I don’t bother. I’d actually try them on the stand bases if I had exposed floorboards.
I've had good results with them on the bottom of floor standing speakers and homemade outriggers onto solid floors...
 
Well done, glad someone else recommended soundcare superspikes - I have them under both racks and all speakers. I have nice wooden floorboards and I hate having spikes damage these.. these feet just slide around with a firm shove. Perfect.

I have also used these cheaper very simple feet to great effect - well under your budget and I had these under a set of Target R1s and they sounded great and didn’t move a mm...

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=292194096930

Similar but even cheaper option.. haven’t seen or used these, so can’t comment on quality. The Malvern Hills Audio ones above are great..

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=303565818471
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
I think its it's actually the combination of the mass of the granite/ marble placed on the
carpet and underlay that provides the 'damping'

mass doesn't damp, but carpet may confer a little, my opinion is similar. I think the spikes digging into the mdf is also beneficial, rather than sitting on top, with minimum contact area.
 
As with everything, eBay is your friend, here are some with an 8mm thread: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=184492584753

Check your stand thread size as some might be M6.

Thanks, that's the sort of thing. Nice and cheap too, as it's not marketed as a "hi-fi solution". Thread size is indeed a slight concern as the speaker stands in question are from Skylan in Canada, and I'm not sure if the thread they use is standard in the UK.
I would message them first and ask how they sound. Please post the reply.
 
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I use Soundcare superspikes under my speakers on bare floorboards. The play in the captive spike/housing allows for fine adjustment on uneven flooring. No wobble here.
Another vote for Soundcare superspikes. I use them under my speaker stands, subwoofers and equipment racks on a hardwood floor. They are excellent and easy to level up. They have no impact on sound as far as I'm concerned.
 
I’m very far from convinced spikes onto a hardwood floor is a good idea. Things like the ‘Superspikes’ are just the equivalent of a ‘spike and cup’ thing, logically just the same as standing spikes on coins on the floor, so still direct couple/transmit.

I guess a lot depends on the specific floor in question. For a couple of years I lived in an appropriately pretentious and minimalist modern loft apartment conversion thingy in Liverpool city centre. The living space was quite big and the floor the typical laminate hardwood stuff. Despite allegedly having some sound-deadening properties it was a very resonant material and the spike/cup things I tried unquestionably energised it. It was at that stage I abandoned all resonant metal tables (Mana etc) as they just obviously sounded awful but it took longer to start to form any theories as to what was happening and what I liked/didn’t like subjectively.

If I had to return to a un-carpeted hard-wood floor my first test would be spikes (and cups, coins or whatever to protect the floor) vs the rubber industrial feet I linked to in post #1 vs. those feet with a good thick felt pad stuck to them. I’m not a gambler, but my bet is things would move more to my taste at each of those three stages.

As I see it you are attempting to achieve two things:

a) Providing the speaker a stable platform at audio frequencies (this may not be what some describe as “rigid”).

b) Avoiding turning the floor or anything else in the vicinity into a structure that resonates at audio frequencies.

I just don’t see spikes as a good way of achieving that. They can maybe be useful for the first part in some scenarios (i.e. piercing thick carpet), but can be hopeless for the second as they pass all energy straight into the very likely resonant floor.
 
I use Soundcare superspikes under my speakers on bare floorboards. The play in the captive spike/housing allows for fine adjustment on uneven flooring. No wobble here.
I use Soundcare Superspikes too under speakers and racks.
Visually very acceptable and with the felt floor interface they come with, sliding things a couple inches is quite easy (the other day it was the rack with more than 50kg of amps on it)
 
You will need to check size of thread. Canada is nominally metric but is intimately linked to the US of A, the last bastion of inch size nuts and bolts. Measure a bolt and nip down to your local hardware store
 
I just don’t see spikes as a good way of achieving that. They can maybe be useful for the first part in some scenarios (i.e. piercing thick carpet), but can be hopeless for the second as they pass all energy straight into the very likely resonant floor.
They work well on concreate or very substantial older real timber subfloors, but a lot of newer ones are appalling. I'm not sure it's even necessarily the materials, but the lack of skill and or care in construction. An ex of mine had a 90s "Barrett Premier" build. The grooved chipboard subflooring wasn't lapping the joists properly, wasn't glued properly and generally looked like someone who was OK with a saw but had no idea what they were doing had been given the boards and no instructions...
 
Well done, glad someone else recommended soundcare superspikes - I have them under both racks and all speakers. I have nice wooden floorboards and I hate having spikes damage these.. these feet just slide around with a firm shove. Perfect.

I have also used these cheaper very simple feet to great effect - well under your budget and I had these under a set of Target R1s and they sounded great and didn’t move a mm...

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=292194096930

Similar but even cheaper option.. haven’t seen or used these, so can’t comment on quality. The Malvern Hills Audio ones above are great..

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=303565818471
Hmm, I have stuff like that saved from old office furniture, I'll have to try them!
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
mass doesn't damp, but carpet may confer a little, my opinion is similar. I think the spikes digging into the mdf is also beneficial, rather than sitting on top, with minimum contact area.

Sorry, maybe I didn't explain the method accurately, the combined mass of the loudspeaker, stand and marble or granite plinth placed on top of the carpet and thick underlay laid over a concrete floor forms a constrained layer which is a good damping technique, the carpet/underlay forming the constrained section and the mass of the combined loudspeaker, stand and stone plinth providing enough pressure to constrain the layers below against the hard concrete screeded surface of the floor, the speaker or stand spikes biting into the surface of the plinth, this forms a well isolated and damped plinth which looks good IMO and in practice makes accurate positioning of the loudspeakers much easier as you can slide the plinth in small increments, definitely easier than walking a speaker on spikes.
Coincidentally I'm not the only person who recommends this method, the chief designer of Sonus Faber speakers also recommends this method, my TT, a NA Dais also uses high mass on semi compliant feet.
This is a method I've used for nearly 30 years (long before I'd ever heard of SF or CLD) it just seemed quite logical and I find it works well in practice, hth.
 
Sorry, maybe I didn't explain the method accurately, the combined mass of the loudspeaker, stand and marble or granite plinth placed on top of the carpet and thick underlay laid over a concrete floor forms a constrained layer which is a good damping technique, the carpet/underlay forming the constrained section and the mass of the combined loudspeaker, stand and stone plinth providing enough pressure to constrain the layers below against the hard concrete screeded surface of the floor, the speaker or stand spikes biting into the surface of the plinth, this forms a well isolated and damped plinth which looks good IMO and in practice makes accurate positioning of the loudspeakers much easier as you can slide the plinth in small increments, definitely easier than walking a speaker on spikes.
Coincidentally I'm not the only person who recommends this method, the chief designer of Sonus Faber speakers also recommends this method, my TT, a NA Dais also uses high mass on semi compliant feet.
This is a method I've used for nearly 30 years (long before I'd ever heard of SF or CLD) it just seemed quite logical and I find it works well in practice, hth.

what you describe is not constrained layer damping. This is a very specific structure comprising very thin layers (the layer to be damped) and the constraining layer, sandwiching a viscoelastic (ve)layer, which also must be very thin. All layers must bend, which effects the damping, so that shear forces are set up in the ve layer. Your structure is just a structure, which may comprise some form of damping, although not cld.
 
My emerging theory over the past decade or so is to avoid anything that is rigid to the point it can ring in any way. This goes for many things, e.g. bolting an arm to an armboard, a driver to a baffle, pretty much anything. I no longer have any low-mass speaker stands to play about with, but my feeling with high-mass ones is not to over-tighten the bolts, do them up to the point they neither rattle nor ring. Basically always avoid turning your hi-fi into percussion instruments. With my speaker stands for the LA3/5As or JR149s the spikes just push through the carpet under their own weight (heavy stands) and are then levelled, I don’t use a spanner, just finger-tight is fine. The stands themselves are tightened by ear, i.e. no rattles or resonances.

The idea of trying to transmit as much energy from the speakers into the floor (typical ‘80s attitude) is hugely flawed IMO as a floor itself is a resonant structure, and an unpredictable one at that. Far better to try and lose energy wherever you can do so without generating resonance. A 5kg speaker on a 20kg stand is not going to be moving about much anyway at audio frequencies, it is just too high a mass for a little driver moving at say 50Hz to 20kHz to set in motion, so I’m pretty convinced what you want to do is to stop it either having an audio frequency resonance of its own or moving a hollow and potentially resonant floor. If I was in a non-carpeted room (a disaster sonically IMHO, so I never would be) I’d certainly try experimenting with compliant interfaces. No way in hell would I pay Townsend or equivalent prices, but I suspect there is something to that logic that is worthy of exploring. There will certainly be industrial equivalents.
I did finite element analysis of this very problem and posted the results here, some time ago. I believe they did not support your hypothesis.

The problem with steel spike/wood or spike/concrete interface is impedance mismatch. For s better energy transfer into wood, a layer of material that has stiffness modulus in between of the two materials is needed. I use graphite/epoxy pads, with very good results.
 


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