If listening to anything digital just use the EQ available! Don’t worry about it, things like Roon especially change the output before the DAC, so you’re not effecting the sound quality at all..
I have a set of analogue 30band Rane Eqs which I used to use in car audio comps (so converted to 12v) and they were a godsend, and being analogue (and also combined with a matching active crossover) they sounded bloody awesome.
Here you go - x-over adjustment on the fly…
A couple of tricks were to never eq anything higher than flat, and use an RTA to eq both sides to exactly the same response. Then the speakers disappeared and you were left with a horizontal soundstage wider than the car.
Rug Doc, what's the car and are there more pic's? I'm an old car audio freak.
I disagree. If you use it for broad adjustments (not as broad as an amplifier tone control but relatively low Q compared to precise targeting of low frequency modes), digital parametric EQ can work very well for middle and high frequency shaping. My current speakers, for example, have too much output between 500Hz-2kHz for my tastes and I use a parametric EQ filter to bring output in this area down by a couple of dBs. I've also used it in the past to smooth out a gentle bump between 4.5kHz-7kHz and again it worked very well. The key is to apply smoothing to the FR measurements before you make MF and HF adjustments so that you are only adjusting broad trends.And don't do any in room measured EQ above, let's say 200 Hz, it's counter productive.
@RJohan yes sure, it’s changed many times over the years..
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/old-school-porsche-914-install.148283/
I disagree. If you use it for broad adjustments (not as broad as an amplifier tone control but relatively low Q compared to precise targeting of low frequency modes), digital parametric EQ can work very well for middle and high frequency shaping. My current speakers, for example, have too much output between 500Hz-2kHz for my tastes and I use a parametric EQ filter to bring output in this area down by a couple of dBs. I've also used it in the past to smooth out a gentle bump between 4.5kHz-7kHz and again it worked very well. The key is to apply smoothing to the FR measurements before you make MF and HF adjustments so that you are only adjusting broad trends.
Yes, from my 1/12 octave smoothed in-room measurements. Here's an example of a previous EQ I applied to my speakers before I moved them to a different position (red curve = raw response, blue curve = EQd response). I use my in-room measurements as a guide to help me identify the centre frequency, Q and dB of the filter required but I let my ears be the final judge of what sounds best.From in room measurements? I have done some small tweaks on my KEF R100's after reading published diagrams of anechoic/gated measurements.
Coool! Roughly something I have had plans (I'm to lazy to do it) for my Boxster. 'Slaughter' a pair of small modern day KEF 3 ways, put the mid/high in the kick panels and the bass in the foot compartment. You have then proved it would all work!
Good spot @Arkless Electronics. Almost every other speaker I have ever owned came with warning that they a fussy with their placement and need room. I have never found it to be particularly true so ignored the warnings with the Spendors. My bad.
I have very little wiggle room for positioning adjustments hence the reason I’m exploring EQ as an option.
I do think that the speakers are just not very suitable for my room unfortunately.
Having said that, it seems like dsp might be a good option for me. I’m looking into microphones to see if I can find something that will work in my basic set up (CCA > amp > speakers)