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Dynaudio now using wood screws for their 10'000 EUR speakers?!

vln

vln

Shuns mooks. And MQA.
Just came across this:

Dynaudio_Focus_50_speakers_review_matej_isak_mono_and_stereo_2023_high_end_audiophile_luxury_audio_music_00004.jpg


Source: https://www.monoandstereo.com/?p=29309

As you can see, this is a wood screw they (Dynaudio) is using to fasten the bass drivers on their 10'000 EUR Focus 50 speakers - or am I seeing this wrong?

I would have expected that for a speaker at this price point (and frankly even below) you'd be using metal screws and metal threads...
 
It will depend on what the baffle is made of and how thick it is. In the correct application a wood screw can be a pretty effective way to attach something to something else.

And they may have found that it sounds better.
 
I'm happy to announce a new range of Audiophile Reference Statement wood screws starting with our budget option at £95 per screw.

Night And Day, Inky Blackness etc guaranteed!

Screwfix is just down the road so you can be confident there will be no pesky supply issues.

"Got a screw lose? You'll love the sound of this!"
 
Lenehan speakers in Australia use copper screws in some of their speakers. I’m not sure if they sound better but they definitely look better.
 
Mr Pig said:
It will depend on what the baffle is made of and how thick it is. In the correct application a wood screw can be a pretty effective way to attach something to something else.

And they may have found that it sounds better.
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I am assuming it's the usual MDF.
I am also assuming that for the Confidence speakers, they most definitely are not using wood screws (at least I am clinging on to that hope).
 
£5 says that image is replaced within a week…

Or Dynaudio will say that adding an insert creates a possibility of the insert working loose (This has happened to me!)

maybe a wooodscrew is best in the material used for the baffle? It looks like a good quality fixing - not a lidl job.
 
Screws distribute the load through the material. Wood increases its grip on the screw over time. I don't know if that's also true for composite materials, but it seems to me that there's nothing wrong with a good screw, technically.

I understand that bolt/embedded nut type fixings can loosen over time due to compression of the wood or board. My own speakers have nut and bolt driver fixings and there is no question that over the years the bolt tension decreases and they benefit form occasional tightening. Spreading that load through the material might be a better long term option if you're not repeatedly removing the screws.

What are the advantages of a nut and bolt fixing if you don't need to remove the drivers often?
 
I'm just questioning the tacit assumption here that here that wood screws are not going to be a very good fastener in this application, because it's not necessarily true.

If you use a machine screw it has to screw into something other than the wood. One common solution is an insert which screws into the wood and has threads for the machine screw on the inside. All this does is move the wood thread from the screw to the insert and, as the inserts are often shorter than a suitable wood screw would be, these guys are notorious for coming lose. And they're harder to fix if they do.
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A better option is some kind of threaded washer that fits behind the panel and these are often used. More of a nuisance to fit but can be done up much tighter.

t_nut.png


But machine screws are only better if a wood screw cannot be tightened to the torque you want. People assume that tighter and more rigid is better but that's not the case. In Hi-Fi, things can often sound worse if they are too tight. For example cartridge bolts, fasteners on a turntable and yes, driver fixing bolts on speakers. The specified torque for Rega arm mounting bolts is 2Nm!
 
Also, we're assuming the screw is going into wood/MDF of the baffle. It may be going into, say, a nylon insert or similar.
 
Mr Pig said:
But machine screws are only better if a wood screw cannot be tightened to the torque you want. People assume that tighter and more rigid is better but that's not the case. In Hi-Fi, things can often sound worse if they are too tight. For example cartridge bolts, fasteners on a turntable and yes, driver fixing bolts on speakers. The specified torque for Rega arm mounting bolts is 2Nm!
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Yes - not to mention the fact that if you screw too tightly into wood or composite the gripped material around the thread easily goes plastic, so tighter can actually be looser, especially long-term. There's nothing wrong with a skilfully-torqued screw.

P.S. perhaps Dynaudio employees are required to read Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance before assembling Dynaudio speakers. It wouldn't do much harm.
 
Machine bolts with a finer thread pitch exert far more tensile force in relation to the torque applied in tightening them. I never use them on tweeters. I have also unwittingly bent cast driver chasses with over-zealous tightening. Wood screws are problematic only if they are repeatedly removed and/or the wood thread loses integrity (strips).
 
Del monaco said:
Does it really make a difference?
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So much difference. I think we should discuss fine, medium and coarse thread pitches, shaft ratios, alloys and coatings, Philips v Pozidriv v Torx v hex, cavity diameters, ideal board types, hand v powered screwdriver v torque wrench, and every other possible variation and permutation of screwing before getting back to work.
 
sonddek said:
So much difference. I think we should discuss fine, medium and coarse thread pitches, shaft ratios, alloys and coatings, Philips v Pozidriv v Torx v hex, cavity diameters, ideal board types, hand v powered screwdriver v torque wrench, and every other possible variation and permutation of screwing before getting back to work.
Click to expand...
Lost me at ‘So’
 
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