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Dahlquist DQ10

Well have been down a rabbit hole of research and putting my peak esr meter to test....IMG_5009 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

Crossovers removed,cheeks getting some sanding love and danish oil...

IMG_4869 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

The cabinet tops have the original holes prior to mirror imaging and general fade so both speakers will get filled and primed and sprayed....
IMG_4718 by Vintage Audio, on FlickrIMG_4988 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

Side cheeks came up lovely.....
IMG_4987 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

IMG_4990 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

IMG_4999 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

Armour back on, and new all matching screws...


IMG_4994 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

IMG_5012 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr



Ended up using fancy capacitors from hifi collective,certainly not top run but an expensive learning curve £120 .
Think i may well explore changing out the sand cast resistors and potentially the 80uf capacitors that control the midbass,i cheaped out and used a electrolytic as per factory £2.78 each vs £32.99 each for the film upgrade which i will have to remotely mount due to the size ...
Awaiting proper woofer foams from usa so presently using them with the aftermarket woofers in and not the advent originals in.
Sounds a lot better with the fandangle caps....
 
Quad74 said:
Sounds a lot better with the fandangle caps....
Click to expand...

I'm glad you went ahead and changed to some modern caps and more importantly are enjoying them. When embarking on something like this there are always some who caution against it claiming it may make things worse, no guarantee of success , could alter the sound etc. I have always had great results modding XO's. It's not a case of knowing better than the designer, although sometimes it is! It is simply keeping to the same values and allowing the better quality components to get out of the way with less editorialising, which brings me to encouraging you to swap the electrolytic out for a film cap.

Looks like a nice clean up and it appears that you have removed the, to me, unnecessary fuse. Good. Replacing the resistors makes sense and if you do, consider the Mills 12W for all positions. The higher wattage rating will reduce any thermal compression. There are other resistors that would also be an upgrade over the cheapy sand jobs.
 
Thanks for the feedback,and will take on board your advice:)
The fuses all remain as per factory etc.
Not sure it the clarity caps need to burn in sure they are sounding less brighter as the hours/days go on...
Next steps are to re-foam the original woofer and remove the aftermarket one,still sounds delightful presently.
Plan B may well involve resistors and changing the electrolytics but at £60 plus im unsure of the pound per sound value in doing it.
Its knowing where to draw the line with it,was tempted to up grade wiring but decided against it.
 
The impact of upgrade depends on where the 80uF. If it is in say a Zobel network to flatten an impedance peak, expect very small changes. If it is the main high-pass cap in the way to the mid-bass, it might be very worth doing. There is a middle way - lower quality film caps may be a lot better than an electrolytic, even if not as good as the best parts. Farnell 3106551 is a metallised polypropylene, has 4 pins (for mechanical strength, as it is a big lump) and costs about £13. Obviously I have no idea what it sounds like, but would be surprised if it was less than very good. Electrical specs are certainly impressive - good for 600A of peak current!
 
Foams landed from the good old usa.....
Used the test tone app at 50hz method to centre the voice coils...
Finally got to hear the origional advent drivers and i am delighted,the aftermarket soundlab with be gathering dust....
Going to upgrade crossovers again at a later date as these are certainly something special...
IMG_5084 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

IMG_5086 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr

IMG_5088 by Vintage Audio, on Flickr
 
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