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Completed my NS-1000M crossovers

YNWOAN

100% Analogue
With the completion of the crossover upgrade I've finally finished my Yamaha speaker rebuild. I'm so pleased with the results I thought I would share a couple of pictures with you all:



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The actual circuit and component values are the same as the standard crossover but the three legs have been separated and care has been taken to optimise component selection and alignment. The six resistors replace the mid and treble adjustment pots - the whole thing is hardwired and each sits on its own granite base.
 
They look really classy. Love the Jantzen coils and resistors. If only NS1000Ms (in good condition) are as easily found in these parts ...
 
They look really classy. Love the Jantzen coils and resistors. If only NS1000Ms (in good condition) are as easily found in these parts ...

Thanks :). Yep, as you say, the coils and resistors (10W MOX) are all from Jantzen (highly recomended, as are their UK distributor Audio Components). The drive units were A1 but the cabinets were quite dented and scratched when I got them.

The capacitors are all polypropylene and a mixture of ClarityCap ESA and Mundorf Supreme, Monacor for the bass.The bass section can easily be electrically separated and there is a potential further project of an active crossover (and drive) for the bass section.
 
Nice work!!!

FlatP's shoeboxes?

Thanks :).

Yep, the cases are from my great friend Andrew (Flatpopely) - excellent they are too*. I have the sleeves too but there is evidence that inductors are affected by the proximity of metal (even non magnetic) and since they look so pretty I made transparent acrylic sleeves (reverse etched with the Yamaha logo of course :)).

* Get them whilst you can - when they are gone they are gone forever.
 
Beautiful work, not that I'd expect anything less. What virtual L-pad settings did you end up with? I understand most in the know run NS1000s a notch or two back on the top and mid.
 
Beautiful work, not that I'd expect anything less.

Thanks Tone - one has standards to maintain you know ;).

What virtual L-pad settings did you end up with?

I ended up with them nearly flat - the mid is very fractionally backed off but by significantly less than 1db.

I understand most in the know run NS1000s a notch or two back on the top and mid.

Yeah, I have also read that some do that. To be honest, I struggle to see how this is preferred as to me it creates a very recessed and muted sound. It also does slightly odd things to the stereo image and dilutes focus. When I removed them I did measure the pots and although nicely made things they are not matched particularly closely. Also, as they are adjusted they do not present a consistent 8ohm load. I did vacillate quite a lot as to whether to remove the adjustment pots from the front of the speaker but after six months of living with it I have no reservations.
 
Thank you - I must admit the project has come out well :). The only thing left to look at is driving the bass actively. I've built the system in such a way that the bass section of the crossover can easily be bypassed. A good friend of mine has done a lot of work converting Tannoys to active operation and I will rope him in to help - he has sufficient gear needed to lash something together for experimentation purposes.
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We are going to do a similar job to Andrew's Saras next - I've largely designed the external crossover layout already :).
 
Thanks Mark :). The whole refurbishment has primarily been about improving the performance and I am pleased by the sonic results - it's been over 15 months from beginning to end, but it's been worth it.
 
They've made my day: nice work!

The usual drill with NS1000 pots is to set the top -2dB, then -1dB. Then take the mid back -1dB, then try the tweeter + 1dB, then reset them to factory spec, realise that Yamaha had it about right after all, and that your room has an issue they've highlighted. Then fix that. Then wonder how best to bypass those useless pots . . .
 
Thanks guys, very much appreciated :).

Those 401 crossovers look pretty good to me - I'm surprised by the positioning of the two smaller inductors though - thought they would be further apart?
 
Those 401 crossovers look pretty good to me - I'm surprised by the positioning of the two smaller inductors though - thought they would be further apart?

Those little air-cored inductors are low in value so any stray coupling between them will be very limited, but I agree, definitely not optimal. There are worse compromises than that in the 401s but somehow they sound anything but compromised so I'm leaving well alone!

Mr Tibbs
 


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