Clean a stylus with methyl vinyl polysiloxane?

[onlyconnect]

I am reviewing a "Vinyl record clean kit" which includes a "Needle cleaner". This is a gel apparently formed of methyl vinyl polysiloxane. The instructions say:

"Put needle tip into gel for a while in a right angle then lift up needle and cleaned."

I have hitherto used one of those vibrating cleaners from AT. Used to use isopropyl alcohol but went off it because of risk of ungluing the tip from the cantilever!

Not sure how effective the gel can be but thought I would check here before risking use on actual stylus!

 

[gavreid]

It'll be used as a sticky gunk to lift the grunge away. It could be quite effective but maybe residue left on the stylus will be an issue if it dries hard

 

[Alex S]

That’s usually a two pack used for dental and ear impressions. I have lots of it for mould making on picture frames and the like. I don’t think I’d want it near my stylus because of residues. May as well use a blob of silicone out of a gun.

 

[Pure_Carbon]

Onzow Zero Dust here.
Some aren't fans , but I like it.
Cleans all the visible gunk , and can be washed when needed.

 

[Mike Reed]

Just don't like the way the cantilever is trapped before release of the stylus, pulling it in the opposite direction of travel from that designed. It will only remove loose debris as it's not an active cleaner so if hard gunk is there, it stays. T.b.h., if you've cleaned your records properly with an RCM you should hardly need any stylus maintenance; a camel-haired brush or vibrating pad, maybe; that's it, or even judicious dabs of a weak IPA mix on properly secured styli (not just glued).

If anybody here knows the internal location of the magnets, coils damping and canti. connections for most moving coils, please enlighten me, as I really don't thing using the gel stuff is remotely beneficial to their inner workings In fact, if you yanked arm out of the gel rather than gently hear it 'pop', I reckon you could do damage. Forget what my gel is called but it's a well-known make.

 

[Yank]

I would hate to lift the arm and find a cantilever still stuck in the goo.

 

[onlyconnect]

Just don't like the way the cantilever is trapped before release of the stylus, pulling it in the opposite direction of travel from that designed. It will only remove loose debris as it's not an active cleaner so if hard gunk is there, it stays. T.b.h., if you've cleaned your records properly with an RCM you should hardly need any stylus maintenance; a camel-haired brush or vibrating pad, maybe; that's it, or even judicious dabs of a weak IPA mix on properly secured styli (not just glued).

If anybody here knows the internal location of the magnets, coils damping and canti. connections for most moving coils, please enlighten me, as I really don't thing using the gel stuff is remotely beneficial to their inner workings In fact, if you yanked arm out of the gel rather than gently hear it 'pop', I reckon you could do damage. Forget what my gel is called but it's a well-known make.

Good points.

 

[onlyconnect]

Interesting that Audio Technica offers something similar:

AT617a

The AT617a cartridge stylus cleaner is a specially formulated polyurethane gel that gently removes dirt particles from the stylus tip when the stylus is lowered onto it. The gel’s surface is ...

www.audio-technica.com

 

[Mike Reed]

Interesting that Audio Technica offers something similar:

Interesting indeed; they of the legendary AT 637 electronic cleaner. Maybe it doesn't matter a hoot which way the canti. is pulled, and I'd be happy if that were so. However, if, like me, you've tried these things (mine was a Vinyl Passion), slowly raised your £4K cartridge from the goo, heard the pop after seeing the stylus resisting quick egress, you'd be a little apprehensive, I feel.

MM canti's are usually ally, and do not have the same internal suspension etc. as MCs, so maybe fine on those, but AT make a fair few MCs at the lower cost level. Not sure what to think.

 

[John]

I’ve been using this product for the last 25 years on my Linn MC cartridges. Place the stylus on it for a few seconds every 3 or 4 record sides.

Bergeon 6033 Rodico The Original Green Putty Watch Cleaner

For cleaning of precision parts and small gears. Removes surplus oils, loose dirt, grease and fingerprints.

www.esslinger.com

 

[foxwelljsly]

I’ve been using this product for the last 25 years on my Linn MC cartridges. Place the stylus on it for a few seconds every 3 or 4 record sides.

Bergeon 6033 Rodico The Original Green Putty Watch Cleaner

For cleaning of precision parts and small gears. Removes surplus oils, loose dirt, grease and fingerprints.

www.esslinger.com

Yep, a combination of this, a good brush and AT 607 cleaning fluid has kept my styli clean for years.

 

[Mike Reed]

AT 607 cleaning fluid

Any idea of its ingredients? Weak IPA, which I've used on occasion (with brush) is not strong enough to damage fixings yet does clean up styli.

Place the stylus on it for a few seconds every 3 or 4 record sides.

D'you use an RCM, I wonder. Every 3 or 4 sides seems excessive to me.

 

[John]

3 or 4 record sides is what was recommended by Expert Stylus who provided me with the Rodico initially and it seems sensible to me. Mr. Hodgson knows his stuff when it comes to diamond styli.

 

[Nigel]

How long does a piece like that last?
Why not just use it as you showed in the earlier example?

 

[chartz]

I’ve always used acetone when I have a really dirty tip. Then magic eraser.

 

[Alex S]

Acetone will travel up the cantilever very quickly and is very good at melting glue, but may not reach if you use very little. I certainly wouldn’t have it anywhere near an expensive cart.

 

[Big Tabs]

Any idea of its ingredients? Weak IPA, which I've used on occasion (with brush) is not strong enough to damage fixings yet does clean up styli.

D'you use an RCM, I wonder. Every 3 or 4 sides seems excessive to me.

I use just deionised water if any of my styli need a deep clean. The brush is only very slightly moist though, and I use a loupe/very strong lighting during the process. Never had a stylus fall apart as a result, and I have used the same technique for years (mm styli only out of interest)

 

[GrooveTickler]

Use a dry stylus brush. Avoid fluids of any kind. Admittedly, I see the worst, probably the effects of overuse. Fluids corrode aluminum cantilevers and cause them to lose the diamond once the corrosion is bad enough. They migrate up the cantilever and in the worst cases can destroy the insulation layer on coils and attach the soft carbon steel music wire suspension spring that is central to most MC designs and cause it to corrode and break. Usually when this happens, there is ample evidence of over saturation.

Gels, also perhaps from overuse, cause a buildup that is very stubborn. I end up having to remove the hardened, crusted buildup with a razor blade.

You literally cannot overuse a dry stylus brush. You should use a good quality stylus brush dry after every side. Just give a good swipe back to front before dropping the needle when you begin a new side. This assumes you keep your records clean and dry.

I use dry Mr Clean MagicEraser because it works like a brush but it a little bit more able to remove every trace of debris and microscopic fibers, but this is because I photograph styli every day for my work and they must be spotless—more clean than necessary to play well.

NEVER USE ACETONE or harsh solvents. Most diamonds are held in place with either epoxy or cyanoacrylate. Acetone melts both of these compounds. You are asking to lose your diamond and quickly. If you haven’t lost it yet, perhaps it’s because you use very little. That will actually soften the epoxy or cyanoacrylate, which may reharden again once the acetone evaporates. But even then, you risk causing the diamond to move out of proper position.

 

[John]

How long does a piece like that last?
Why not just use it as you showed in the earlier example?

I probably change to a new piece every 6 months to a year. I still have my original chunk, it will probably last me another 10 years! You just need to cut off a small bit to mold your piece. You obviously want to avoid touching it. I keep in a sealed sandwich bag.

 

[hermit]

I use the DS Audio ST-50 stylus cleaner at the start of every session and then a quick brush with a goat hair brush after each side. After 6 sides it's back to the ST-50.