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Class A service

Hi Scottie,
Did you manage to sort your Sizmik sub? I have a similar issue with Sizmik 12.45 not powering up. I was about to contact Class A but based on the above sounds like they will not be able to help?
Were Cheshire Audio able to help? If so Ill give them a call.
 
Hi Penfold. I contacted Cheshire Audio, but unfortunately they don't offer a repair service for the Sizmik. They did contact me and pointed me in the direction of the Class D plate amps, that would do the job and that they offer. It would mean cutting the back out of the Sizmik and making a new box to steal the amp from the speaker, a bit like the way the Linn plate amps are fixed, as standard. I have also been advised that you could add an external sub-woofer amp, if you drilled a coupe of holes in the facia of the existing plate amp, and extend the two wires from the driver through the holes you make. Haven't had a chance to look yet, or to thank Neil at Cheshire Audio for his response. I did have a quick look online and noticed that you can pick the amps that Neil recommended, up for less than they are presently selling them at. Let me know what you decide to do, please. The fitting of a new plate amp sounds as if it's going to take some work! Good luck!

Here is a link to the relevant section on their website :-
https://www.wilmslowaudio.co.uk/subwoofer-amps-126-c.asp
 
Hi Scottie, Thanks for the prompt response.
Its a shame that component changes are not more straightforward. When I was kid and the TV went fuzzy my Dad (Electronics engineer) would whip the back off the set, twiddle about, switch a relay, clean a contact and then 10 minutes later, back on. It seems we've lost the ability to repair like we used to. I'm sure its no longer that simple but we have become a throw away society in my opinion.
I was running two Sizmik 12.45 in a stereo arrangement so I'm not sure changing the amplifier to just the broken one is the solution, but something I will consider and look into. The gain would need to be the same I assume with the working sub and the main system amplification?
Several years ago I disassembled the subs and had them finished high gloss black by the people who do Linn's high gloss finish. As opposed to cutting into the cabinet I may just run the one working in mono, and then maybe sell them on with one being a potential donor cabinet? In the fullness of time I'm going to upgrade to REL's so its the balance of investment in a non-serviceable product v's replacement. Which I always knew would be the situation at some point unfortunately! It does make me laugh though because Sizmik's are relatively inexpensive because of the service issue, however, if you want something new which preforms equally as good, then alternatives don't come cheap!
 
My Sizmik amp died some time ago. It was the third amp pack, the first two replaced under warranty. No2 actually blew up, big bang, lots of smoke, the whole thing, but the driver survived! The last time it went I had a look myself - nothing obvious, and not the usual suspects I've seen on various forums, so looked for professional help, and found no one that was keen to look at it. I had a Behringer DEQ2496 'in stock' from early experiments with room correction, so I bought Sub Zero class D 'professional' amp, an use these to drive the Sizmik. The DEQ2496 allows correction, rather than frequency and slope, so more nuanced control and it sounds way better than it ever did, for a modest investment. I still rate the Sizmik as one of the best subs I've tried, just the electronics were not Linn's finest moment.
 
Hi Penfold. Shame I've not your father's expertise! I'll hang on for now. I've been after a pair of Katans as rears, in maple, as I've my Ninkas and the dead Sizmik in maple, just like the look. It didn't cross my mind to have them sprayed! Good call. It's a shame, as my Sizmik performed well with my old Classik. Good luck with the REL's.
 
Hi Jem. Just watched a YouTube video on the Behringer DEQ2496, sorry to say that's all way above my head. Which Sub Zero amp did you buy and could I just use it on it's own, or is there no control on that amp? Pardon my ignorance, but I'm a complete novice. It's a great shame as my Linn Classik Movie Di's shot, as well as my Sizmik. Linn seem to have just washed their hands of these products and you can't find anyone to service or repair these older Linn products. The Voltage Regulator in my Sizmik's amp has burnt out by the look of it. It looks in a similar condition to the one in that picture that was posted by rontoosie, in that thread you participated in back in Feb 2019, where you ran your Sizmik amp out of the box, to prevent this from happening. I'm assuming you can't get the VB408 regulator and do a straight replacement! Once again, excuse my ignorance.
 
Hello All,

I've just found another thread which again identifies the voltage regulator as the potential reason for failure. Sounds like a very common fault. A number alternative replacements are suggested.

Maybe I'm deluded if I think the faulty component can be swapped for one of the above replacements but its the approach I'm going to explore before considering alternative amplification etc.
Does anyone know exactly where on the PCB the regulator is located?
 
In all honesty, I’ve never looked at a Sizmik but I do know they’re extremely unreliable, the chances of getting it repaired to the original condition are low to nil, and if you did, it’d fail again in time. It’s a shame because when they’re working, they’re great, but I personally wouldn’t touch one... I would run a broken one with an external amp though, plenty of options here...

Another possibility (no promise) if you wanted to send me the amplifier pack, I could investigate to see if it’s possible to isolate the power amp section (effectively cut it out) and use the original crossover circuitry to feed an Icepower/hypex module. It may not be possible because of the active servo circuitry in the original design, or if the power supply is totally screwed.

In any case, a neat and very reliable solution would be an Icepower or Hypex module enclosed in the Sizmik box but controlled by an external crossover or DSP controller. I’m happy to help investigate options.
 
Penfold said:
Hello All,

I've just found another thread which again identifies the voltage regulator as the potential reason for failure. Sounds like a very common fault. A number alternative replacements are suggested.

Maybe I'm deluded if I think the faulty component can be swapped for one of the above replacements but its the approach I'm going to explore before considering alternative amplification etc.
Does anyone know exactly where on the PCB the regulator is located?
Click to expand...
I can have a look into that for you, but the consensus I’ve gathered, is that they’re toast when they fail, and Darran refusing to touch them reinforces that.

Like I say, if you wanted to send/drop the amp module to me, I can investigate and try and work around a solution but I make absolutely no promises.
 
Penfold said:
Hello All,

I've just found another thread which again identifies the voltage regulator as the potential reason for failure. Sounds like a very common fault. A number alternative replacements are suggested.

Maybe I'm deluded if I think the faulty component can be swapped for one of the above replacements but its the approach I'm going to explore before considering alternative amplification etc.
Does anyone know exactly where on the PCB the regulator is located?
Click to expand...

Here's a pic posted by rontoosie in a thread back in Feb 2019. Removed the amp out of the back of my Sizmik and it looks exactly the same as in this pic!
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
In all honesty, I’ve never looked at a Sizmik but I do know they’re extremely unreliable, the chances of getting it repaired to the original condition are low to nil, and if you did, it’d fail again in time. It’s a shame because when they’re working, they’re great, but I personally wouldn’t touch one... I would run a broken one with an external amp though, plenty of options here...

Another possibility (no promise) if you wanted to send me the amplifier pack, I could investigate to see if it’s possible to isolate the power amp section (effectively cut it out) and use the original crossover circuitry to feed an Icepower/hypex module. It may not be possible because of the active servo circuitry in the original design, or if the power supply is totally screwed.

In any case, a neat and very reliable solution would be an Icepower or Hypex module enclosed in the Sizmik box but controlled by an external crossover or DSP controller. I’m happy to help investigate options.
Click to expand...

Hi guys. This all now going way above my head, I apologise. I bought into Linn back in the early 2000s, but I know nothing about DSP, crossover circuitry or anything else of a technical nature. Where about are you located linnfomaniac83?
 
Scottie said:
Hi guys. This all now going way above my head, I apologise. I bought into Linn back in the early 2000s, but I know nothing about DSP, crossover circuitry or anything else of a technical nature. Where about are you located linnfomaniac83?
Click to expand...
I’m in the West Midlands, Shire Oak (just up the road from Brownhills high st).
 
Scottie said:
Hi guys. This all now going way above my head, I apologise. I bought into Linn back in the early 2000s, but I know nothing about DSP, crossover circuitry or anything else of a technical nature. Where about are you located linnfomaniac83?
Click to expand...
How do you insert a pic? Just shows you how technical I am!
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
Literally just down the road then, I’m on the Chester Road!
Click to expand...
OK if I drop the Sizmik's amp into you, sometime? Do you know anything about the Classic Movie Di, which seems to have given up the ghost again? I'm willing to pay. Thank you.
 
Penfold said:
Hello All,

I've just found another thread which again identifies the voltage regulator as the potential reason for failure. Sounds like a very common fault. A number alternative replacements are suggested.

Maybe I'm deluded if I think the faulty component can be swapped for one of the above replacements but its the approach I'm going to explore before considering alternative amplification etc.
Does anyone know exactly where on the PCB the regulator is located?
Click to expand...

Try this link to see the Voltage Regulator that seems to be the problem... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UAiRz6ISG1_78JxrteoLbZ-idpT-g2D4/view?usp=sharing
 
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