Mynamemynaim
38yrs a Naim owner
I've rebuilt all my ancient bosch NiMh and NiCd battery's with LiOn cells ...big increase in performance and battery life over their (original new) performance!
Not hard to do either...
Circular saw, good value recommendations
- Thread starter cj66
- Start date
I've rebuilt all my ancient bosch NiMh and NiCd battery's with LiOn cells ...big increase in performance and battery life over their (original new) performance!
Not hard to do either...
nmtjb
pfm Member
I love my mains Mafell MT 55 cc with the rails, angle fence etc. for more precise work, and a brushless 18v Makita for quick and dirty bits and pieces.
The Mafell impressed some high-end builders I had doing some work, whose main kit was all Fein and was recommended by a friend in the trade.
The Mafell impressed some high-end builders I had doing some work, whose main kit was all Fein and was recommended by a friend in the trade.
Mynamemynaim
38yrs a Naim owner
Not really much to expand on...
Take the old batteries apart (just 4 screws in the case of bosch)
Strip out the Nimh or Nicad cells
Replace with six lithium cells (in 18v packs) giving 6x3.7v ...22v nominal
The old packs are generally something pathetic like 1.2Ah ....the new cells bump this to around 3Ah to 3.5Ah depending what you use.
I charge these "new" batteries with my multi chemistry chargers (I have several being a model plane flier)
If you have to ask specifics like how to make up 18650 cell packs....you probably shouldn't be considering it
Couple of pictures of recent batteries...but not specifically bosch as i did them a while ago
https://flic.kr/p/2nFKkTk
https://flic.kr/p/2nFKix8
https://flic.kr/p/2nFJ96t
Pete MB&D
Pete Maddex, the one and only!
The Lidl one in back in the uk I believe thy are rolled out in other country at similar times.
https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/diy/parkside-plunge-saw/p54072
Pete
https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/diy/parkside-plunge-saw/p54072
Pete
Bad Parameter
pfm Member
Portable saw or table saw? Have no advice for the later but in 2022 cordless absolutely, don't even think about corded at this point, unless you only intend to use it 2-3 times a year then maybe better corded. Makita and Dewalt feel equally good to use and hold all day, better than others, Dewalt a bit heavier and chunkier so I prefer Makita, I've never had problems with either. Never understood the point of Hilti, it's made in China like everything else, but some of their heavy duty corded stuff is worth the premium.
You do get better work done with quality tools and it's important to parade your manly snazz so I'd stay away from Lidl Parkside and the like and wouldn't go any lower than Ryobi which is rather fine for non 8hr / 5 days a week work. I've actually met some contractors using all Ryobi, I asked about durability they said meh, stuff gets stolen, forgotten, lost, etc, with the Ryobi their company stopped worrying about those costs, granted the Ryobi guys weren't as snazzy as the self furnished Dewalt and Makita guys on site. An electrician once showed up with an "exotic" Hitachi drill that looked as nice as Makita or Dewalt, that was worth 5 minutes of tool conversation.
You did say DIY but if you have clients around go for quality tools, impressions matter. If you'll be around other workers or trades see what's the fashion in your area that way you can share battery packs and chargers in pinch but don't make a habit of it.
Bad Parameter
pfm Member
Oh, and my little experience with bench tools is that it's all about stability, cheap bench tools wobble and never line up the same way twice, never snapping right into place. Any play is really off putting and frustrating, it'll really drag down your day, so if you're buying a table saw maybe look for something pro and solidly built but used or just go for Makita or Dewalt.
wer
pfm Member
The Festo is certainly not the cheapest, but one of the most solid and reliable. With a carbide tipped saw blade you do not really have to worry what you are cutting, you are likely to get a clean cut.
The Captain
~~~~~~~~~~
I agree. I use a dewalt plunge saw, the plungy bit is a good design I find, but basically a circ saw.. & use it against a timber diy straight edge just like my (heavier) circ saw perfectly fine, ie instead of running it along an expensive track. Decent quality, mfr in czech.
Id not scrimp on a cheapo one. Just get a dewalt or makita, & buy once.
Pete MB&D
Pete Maddex, the one and only!
The good thing about the tracks is that you can just slap them in place and cut, no clamps needed, so it speeds up the cutting process.
The Parkside/Triton/etc are fine, but in the long run the extra quality and ease of use of the expensive ones wins.
Pete
The Captain
~~~~~~~~~~
I'm sure indeed so Pete. But festool/ makita/ dewalt tracks add a £chunk to the saw cost, & as I found, are not absolutely neccessary. I make guitar cabinets & use my plunger often & find it's actually probably quicker to make a cut by popping on a straight edge to a marked line, tap in two pins, go.. than the faff of clamping on an expensive track ( & the clamp pair needed.. yet more expense).
As the OP wanted a budget option, I was just giving my thoughts. I don't suppose anyone else uses a plungesaw as I do without the dedicated track.. but it works tickety-boo.
oceanobsession
pfm Member
dewaltz with track base , very good saw , phil.
Freud are widely regarded as making the best circ saw blades.
Look for a saw which takes 165mm dia, 20mm bore.
They are very common dimensions. Easier to find a better blade than a 30mm bore.
Then stick a Freud blade in - 165mm dia look for a higher tooth count -40t plus.
Look for a thin (kerf width) as possible too. Removes less wood and gives a cleaner cut.
I've done this with a budget corded Evolution circ saw. To great effect.
Also, look up Peter Millard on YouTube, he has reviewed all the budget track saws. (They equally benefit from a Freud blade).
In some respects one would benefit from a circ saw and track saw.
As a circ saw is more flexible - battery is probably preferable - look for a brushless model.
Track saw are ok corded as the amount you cut is directed by the track/rail.
To buy a brushless battery circ saw and brushless battery track saw though will cost a lot.
Look for a saw which takes 165mm dia, 20mm bore.
They are very common dimensions. Easier to find a better blade than a 30mm bore.
Then stick a Freud blade in - 165mm dia look for a higher tooth count -40t plus.
Look for a thin (kerf width) as possible too. Removes less wood and gives a cleaner cut.
I've done this with a budget corded Evolution circ saw. To great effect.
Also, look up Peter Millard on YouTube, he has reviewed all the budget track saws. (They equally benefit from a Freud blade).
In some respects one would benefit from a circ saw and track saw.
As a circ saw is more flexible - battery is probably preferable - look for a brushless model.
Track saw are ok corded as the amount you cut is directed by the track/rail.
To buy a brushless battery circ saw and brushless battery track saw though will cost a lot.
AmadeusMozart
R.I.P.
Check in store with the sideways play on the blade. Also make sure to check on which side the blade sits - son in law recently bought a battery operated saw and later discovered that it is more suitable for a left handed person. Don't buy a too big a skillsaw, just large enough for the job.
There is a nifty cordless small Makita with an approximately 8.5cm blade for panel work (cuts a maximum of 2.5 cm) that I've been eying up. Ideal for overhead work. There is even an 85mm version targetted for glass cutting - I suspect the 85mm saw blade will go in there just fine and then you don't worry about the plasterboard ruining the saw.
If you put the battery away 80% charged in the fridge then they'll live the longest, even if you use it infrequently. Tests have shown a battery last the longest if you start charging them when they are at 20% and stop charging at 80%.
I doubt I'll ever go back to corded.
There is a nifty cordless small Makita with an approximately 8.5cm blade for panel work (cuts a maximum of 2.5 cm) that I've been eying up. Ideal for overhead work. There is even an 85mm version targetted for glass cutting - I suspect the 85mm saw blade will go in there just fine and then you don't worry about the plasterboard ruining the saw.
If you put the battery away 80% charged in the fridge then they'll live the longest, even if you use it infrequently. Tests have shown a battery last the longest if you start charging them when they are at 20% and stop charging at 80%.
I doubt I'll ever go back to corded.