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Changing a Rega P9 Wood Frame

B

Bobby23

pfm Member
I want to change out my P9's wood surround for a color change but also it seems like one of the plastic inserts is coming apart (its a 2 peice, I think). Is there any instruction on it.

It seems straight forward but you never know. Has anybody done this before? My main concern is the screws into the MDF plinth. I know that the frame on this table was changed once before. As well as I took out one screw in and out about 3 times in order to fix/reset the plastic frame insert. Is the plinth's MDF strong enough for the screws to go in and out repeatedly like this?

Thanks guys for any input,
Bobby
 
If the screw holes get worn you can pack them out with a bit of cocktail stick or similar, or use a bigger screw as necessary. The base MDF will stand up to it without trouble, MDF is resistant to most things other than a good soaking in water.
 
MDF just turns into dust if you screw in and out of it too much- I thought the P9 Plinth was HDF though?
 
sq225917 said:
MDF just turns into dust if you screw in and out of it too much- I thought the P9 Plinth was HDF though?
Click to expand...

This is what panics me about the plinth. I'm not positive on the MDF or HDF. What is HDF? High Density Fiberboard, isn't that even worse?

The website says "phenolic resin laminates". Again, I have no idea what that is.

Im really paniced now to touch it with all the "turn to dust" talk.
 
Maybe I'm a little say "simple" but I still don't understand the physics as to how the wood frame/surround is secured to the plinth.

It seems like the frame is actually not fixed to the plinth at all but rather simply just sitting around those 4 plastic inserts around the table and only those plastic inserts are fixed by screws to the plinth.

Does this make sense?

Thanks guys,
Bobby
 
If you look carefully at each of the two "bobbins" at each securing point on the "frame" surround you should see that they each have a tapered face.

It is my understanding from personal experience with the Planar 25 (the P9's surround is mounted in a similar fashion) that the tapered faces of each bobbin act as a "wedge" when the securing screws are gently tightened up.. This allows the surround to be correctly positioned so as to give the same gap all around the main plinth and to ensure the top surface of the frame is level with the main plinth.

Effectively the outer surround is clamped by the wedging action of the bobbins in the mounting holes of the surround.


John R
 
sq225917 said:
keithL, if only, what they mean is Formica-MDF sandwich
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That's not the way I read it but I could be wrong. It says there is a skeletal base that is made up of light weight board, then this skeletal base is encased in a board made up of lamimates of phenolic resin. To me that reads slightly different than simply MDF sandwiched in between Formica. Again, I really have no knowledge of this other than what I read on the Rega website.
 
Analogue innovation said:
... The tapered faces of each bobbin act as a "wedge" when the securing screws are gently tightened up.. This allows the surround to be correctly positioned so as to give the same gap all around the main plinth and to ensure the top surface of the frame is level with the main plinth.

Effectively the outer surround is clamped by the wedging action of the bobbins in the mounting holes of the surround
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, the screw and bobbin will fit right through the hole of the frame (not wedge). Therefore making the the OP's original assumption correct. Am I wrong?
 
I have the benefit of having split a P5 plinth open, i expect the P9 to be no different, it certainly uses the same Formica, it may use a little more pocketing.

The plinth is made from thickish, cnc machined mdf/hdf, pockets are milled out between tonearm base and motor inset to reduce paths for vibration transmission, and then it's skinned with Formica or an unbranded phenolic/melamine sheet.
 
Jazzyguy said:
If I remember correctly, the screw and bobbin will fit right through the hole of the frame (not wedge). Therefore making the the OP's original assumption correct. Am I wrong?
Click to expand...

Yes they will fit right through the hole, but if the two slanted faces of the bobbins are matched and the screw tightened into the main plinth the bobbins are forced in opposite directions effectively wedging them into opposing sides of the hole.

John R.
 
sq225917 said:
The plinth is made from thickish, cnc machined mdf/hdf, pockets are milled out between tonearm base and motor inset to reduce paths for vibration transmission, and then it's skinned with Formica or an unbranded phenolic/melamine sheet.
Click to expand...

Nice! Its good to have someone who opened one up. So if you had to dumb it down a little ;-) From what you see, do you think a screw can go in and out a few times without trouble? Can it handle it?

Thanks,
Bobby
 
Bobby23 said:
Nice! Its good to have someone who opened one up. So if you had to dumb it down a little ;-) From what you see, do you think a screw can go in and out a few times without trouble? Can it handle it?

Thanks,
Bobby
Click to expand...

Take the wood surround off and tap around the plinth with a screwdriver handle.
You'll soon hear where it is hollowed out.

The screws should be nipped-up just enough to hold the surround in place without obvious movement or rattle. It doesn't need to be, and shouldn't be screwed on tightly.

If you replace the surround dozens of times you should perhaps have some concern.

In theory the TT works better with no surround (it is decorative and supports the dust cover) and you can use it that way. Looks kind of dinky, though I couldn't hear any benefit in practice.
 
Agree with above, as long as you don't over tighten you'll be fine. You can always put a drop of epoxy in there to give it something to bite into.
 
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