burndy pin layout for XPS2
- Thread starter bobo
- Start date
Andrew L Weekes
Reverse Engineer
I'll elaborate on Basil's comment, if I may, as it might not be obvious what he's getting at.
With toroidals it's important that the bolt cannot touch the top of the enclosure, since this creates a shorted turn.
A completed path by any conductor passing through the center of toroidal transformer, around the outside is a shorted turn. As with any short circuit, this condition will give rise to high circulating currents, and high heat.
The transformer may be damaged beyond repair.
Always make sure the bolt cannot contact the top of the case for this reason - it may not be an issue, it's hard to tell from the angle of the picture.
Andy.
Hi Peter,
great work, and it looks very, very nice as well. Actually you came out ahead of me. Poor me has been too busy skiing and stuff :-( And, as you may remember I decided to re-invent the wheel by making my own regulators. But my 'XPS' project is going strong and I hope too finish it sometime soon.
Your thoughts on leaving out the burndy output socket and connector came up to me as well. Especially if you don't move the installation all too often, a direct connection (with strain relief) is a great alternative.
Then to the zero's connection. I'm afraid I don't get your point of 'remote sensing' of the return. I think the actual star earth point should be inside the CDX!! So the various supplies (simple +0 or symmetrical +0-) 'float' inside the "XPS" case. All the zero's, AND the ground of the case work should seperately be connected to the corresponding pins on the CDX. The place where all the zero's come together is inside the player itself, and -to my knowledge- especially for digital circuits this is much (!) better than tying all the zero's together in the external supply and then connect the one star ground to the other (i.e. CDX star ground).
good luck with the last few solder joints and bolts!
kind regards, Mark
great work, and it looks very, very nice as well. Actually you came out ahead of me. Poor me has been too busy skiing and stuff :-( And, as you may remember I decided to re-invent the wheel by making my own regulators. But my 'XPS' project is going strong and I hope too finish it sometime soon.
Your thoughts on leaving out the burndy output socket and connector came up to me as well. Especially if you don't move the installation all too often, a direct connection (with strain relief) is a great alternative.
Then to the zero's connection. I'm afraid I don't get your point of 'remote sensing' of the return. I think the actual star earth point should be inside the CDX!! So the various supplies (simple +0 or symmetrical +0-) 'float' inside the "XPS" case. All the zero's, AND the ground of the case work should seperately be connected to the corresponding pins on the CDX. The place where all the zero's come together is inside the player itself, and -to my knowledge- especially for digital circuits this is much (!) better than tying all the zero's together in the external supply and then connect the one star ground to the other (i.e. CDX star ground).
good luck with the last few solder joints and bolts!
kind regards, Mark
Been heavily occupied the last few days.
I can assure you there is plenty of clearance between the transformer bolts and the lid, photo does look worrying though.
So, just to clarify Andy, the wiring should be as follows?
Referring to your super-reg manual I will essentially wire as per figure 7, except the main 0 volt wire will go to the filter caps as per figure 8. So I guess another way to put it, it is wired as per figure 8 without the two remote sense wires?
In addition, you propose I could run a 0 volt remote sense from the reg board remote sense point to the filter cap star point?
I have the (black) loop between SRGND & OVsense as per fig 7.
Do I remove this if I run the o volt remote sense wire?
All the reg boards are currently wired with the 3 loop/links as per figure 7, black, yellow and orange.
Referring to Bobo's point about floating 0v's. With my filter cap board there are 3 sets of supplies each with seperate 0 volt points to supply the regs for +10/0/-10 & +22/0/-22 and one supply for both +15 volt supplies.
So if I leave as is i will effectively have floating 0 volt pints for everything except the two +15 volt supply 0 volt points. These will be common in the psu as they share the same raw supply. Have I got this bit wrong?
I can assure you there is plenty of clearance between the transformer bolts and the lid, photo does look worrying though.
So, just to clarify Andy, the wiring should be as follows?
Referring to your super-reg manual I will essentially wire as per figure 7, except the main 0 volt wire will go to the filter caps as per figure 8. So I guess another way to put it, it is wired as per figure 8 without the two remote sense wires?
In addition, you propose I could run a 0 volt remote sense from the reg board remote sense point to the filter cap star point?
I have the (black) loop between SRGND & OVsense as per fig 7.
Do I remove this if I run the o volt remote sense wire?
All the reg boards are currently wired with the 3 loop/links as per figure 7, black, yellow and orange.
Referring to Bobo's point about floating 0v's. With my filter cap board there are 3 sets of supplies each with seperate 0 volt points to supply the regs for +10/0/-10 & +22/0/-22 and one supply for both +15 volt supplies.
So if I leave as is i will effectively have floating 0 volt pints for everything except the two +15 volt supply 0 volt points. These will be common in the psu as they share the same raw supply. Have I got this bit wrong?
Hi pmm,
no you got this correct. The way you arranged your supply, you will have a common 0 for both 15 volt supplies. That is OK I guess, as the biggest difference will be in having seperate 0's for the sensitive analogue supplies (i.e. not directly tied to the 'dirty' motor and digital 0). This is the case in how you will connect things if I understand correctly.
Cheers and good luck!
Mark
no you got this correct. The way you arranged your supply, you will have a common 0 for both 15 volt supplies. That is OK I guess, as the biggest difference will be in having seperate 0's for the sensitive analogue supplies (i.e. not directly tied to the 'dirty' motor and digital 0). This is the case in how you will connect things if I understand correctly.
Cheers and good luck!
Mark
Hi guy's
Just wanting to be sure about this.
Attached is what I figure wiring arrangement for the dual rail supplys should be.
The star point will be a bit tricky but I purposfuly put several pcb pins there. I may consider drilling a hole so I can use bolt and eyelets as Andy suggested.
There will be three star points though, one for +22/0/-22, one for +10/0/-10 and one for the two 15 volt rails.
Thanks
Just wanting to be sure about this.
Attached is what I figure wiring arrangement for the dual rail supplys should be.
The star point will be a bit tricky but I purposfuly put several pcb pins there. I may consider drilling a hole so I can use bolt and eyelets as Andy suggested.
There will be three star points though, one for +22/0/-22, one for +10/0/-10 and one for the two 15 volt rails.
Thanks
Andrew L Weekes
Reverse Engineer
You only need one of the green wires highlighted in the attached image, per regulator.
If you look at the regulator PCB traces, you'll see both these points are connected together, so wiring both back to the star point would create a loop.
Other than that the wiring looks great, just ensure that the Red and Blue (+ve and -ve raw feeds) run close to the green wires from each respective regulator.
Andy.
P.S. If you try a bolt and eyelets, don't use steel, try and get brass / copper materials, or stainless for the nuts.
If you look at the regulator PCB traces, you'll see both these points are connected together, so wiring both back to the star point would create a loop.
Other than that the wiring looks great, just ensure that the Red and Blue (+ve and -ve raw feeds) run close to the green wires from each respective regulator.
Andy.
P.S. If you try a bolt and eyelets, don't use steel, try and get brass / copper materials, or stainless for the nuts.
Bit of a du-ohh! about the green wires, really obvious now you pointed it out.
I had been thinking of brass nuts & bolts for the star connection, we use a lot of brass fittings at work for marine environment electrical connections, I'm sure I can find something small on the parts shelf.
Peter
I had been thinking of brass nuts & bolts for the star connection, we use a lot of brass fittings at work for marine environment electrical connections, I'm sure I can find something small on the parts shelf.
Peter
Hi ATC56,
send me a PM to [email protected] for the burndy diagrams.
It is a while since i posted here and can't seem to post attachements like I did once. Don't have the time to figure it out right now but can send you a couple of small pdf's easily.
send me a PM to [email protected] for the burndy diagrams.
It is a while since i posted here and can't seem to post attachements like I did once. Don't have the time to figure it out right now but can send you a couple of small pdf's easily.