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Building a LP12 from scratch

keithsnaim

Gone Fishing
Well it's took me a long time to begin this build so any tips, advice etc would be gratefully received. I was given a LP12 plinth by a good friend many years ago. It has been stored in a box for a few years now in my loft.
I took it out of the box 2 weeks ago to have a look at it with a view to restore it. It was in a sorry state to say the least. Apparently it is a Greaves plinth, fluted afromosia. I'm not sure of it's age because the plate is missing off of the back. Luckily the joints are all in good condition so i set about stripping the old finish off it. After many hours of work with different grades of wire wool and white spirit I now have a plinth that is looking much better. 3 coats of Danish oil later and it looks like new.
I am now in the position source the parts needed to complete the project. I know there are many versions to consider but would appreciate any input from fellow fishies. I was thinking about the circus bearing version and would like the option of 45rpm too. I'm not sure what version of cross brace I require either.
In the box with the plinth was a armboard that looks like it's unused, a motor and a pair of hinges. Not sure what condition the motor is in too. I would like to take the LP12 to a good spec but not spend a couple of grand on it if you know what I mean.
Many thanks.
 
I've a spare stainless subplatter from Edmund in a box somewhere, bought for a similar build that never got off the ground
 
I’m not sure what the current market is like, but by far the best way to build a nice LP12 back when I had one (late-‘90s) was to buy several, keep the bits you wanted, and to move the rest on. I ended up with an absolutely beautiful LP12/Zeta and DIY Armageddon for pretty much nothing once everything was factored in. Admittedly this is the timeframe where one could find really nice boxed LP12 /Ittok combos for £350 or less! I certainly got paid to own an LP12! Quite a lot once all the buying and selling was factored-in.

Even now they are back in fashion I bet buying complete ones is way cheaper in the long-run than buying parts. I often used to split them as they were worth far more in parts than complete. Obviously this approach takes capital, but it makes sense financially.

PS Here’s my old LP12 at the friend’s I sold it to. He’s had it about 21-22 years now, far, far longer than I owned it. It wears a Lingo now:

52065928609_b50c77ba99_b.jpg


PPS It wasn’t dusty when I sold it!
 
I’m not sure what the current market is like, but by far the best way to build a nice LP12 back when I had one (late-‘90s) was to buy several, keep the bits you wanted, and to move the rest on. I ended up with an absolutely beautiful LP12/Zeta and DIY Armageddon for pretty much nothing once everything was factored in. Admittedly this is the timeframe where one could find really nice boxed LP12 /Ittok combos for £350 or less! I certainly got paid to own an LP12! Quite a lot once all the buying and selling was factored-in.

Even now they are back in fashion I bet buying complete ones is way cheaper in the long-run than buying parts. I often used to split them as they were worth far more in parts than complete. Obviously this approach takes capital, but it makes sense financially.

PS Here’s my old LP12 at the friend’s I sold it to. He’s had it about 21-22 years now, far, far longer than I owned it. It wears a Lingo now:

52065928609_b50c77ba99_b.jpg


PPS It wasn’t dusty when I sold it!
Thanks for your thoughts Tony, I've been looking at the various options on the auction sites and it seems that it would cost too much to get hold of 2 or 3 Lp12's to take the parts required. Plus I'm not keen about the bidding war that may develop. I like the idea of building at a steady pace when funds allow.
 
@keithsnaim

I built a 'geddon Clone for my bro some years ago, 625VA beast of an isolation transformer, properly hi-pot rated, that I have no use for myself (bro moved to different things, returned the lump to me); not.. the prettiest, in a bare Ally box - but fully functional, safely wired; and I get up to That Yorkshire now and then - so drop-off is eminently possible, depending on 'where.'

Yours, free: if of interest / drop me a PM; I'm tired of stubbing my toes on it : )
 
To get it going I'd recommend a pre-cirkus subchassis and bearing, ideally the black outer with black or white liner.

The "skinflint" option. (which I'd be tempted to go with to get going)


It has the less good spot welded subchassis but a half decent bearing and inner. Definitely not as good as the next option though


The slightly better option


Bonded subchassis with black liner bearing (the one immediately prior to cirkus) and it has a laminated armboard, but that's only any use if you have a Linn arm.

or if you want the "full monty" prior to the Karousel (ie a Cirkus bearing)


I personally never felt that was any better than the two immediately previous versions one of which is the middle of the three in my list.

You pays yer money .....

You'll need an outer, and basically they're priced according to condition but will all sound the same. I'd be tempted to get the cheapest scummiest one provided it didn't have really bad damage and T-Cut the dead lacquer off then polish and wax it. I'd want to pay less than £100 since a brand spanker is only £200.

Get new springs and grommets ( and bolts if you need them) because they're inexpensive

If you need a top plate - whatever is out there

You may also need things like belt guide and motor mounting hemispheres

cross brace if you don't have one.

Any one will do if you buy Martin's 'Geddon" clone - and I recommend you do. It won't do 45 without a pully adaptor. How may 45's do you actually have?

Otherwise one with six stand off mounting points for a Valhalla or Lingo type supply

Pattern part pulley adaptor



Real one

+ The arm & cartridge of your choice.


Bear in mind you can always move bits on should you wish to upgrade.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
To get it going I'd recommend a pre-cirkus subchassis and bearing, ideally the black outer with black or white liner.

The "skinflint" option. (which I'd be tempted to go with to get going)


It has the less good spot welded subchassis but a half decent bearing and inner. Definitely not as good as the next option though


The slightly better option


Bonded subchassis with black liner bearing (the one immediately prior to cirkus) and it has a laminated armboard, but that's only any use if you have a Linn arm.

or if you want the "full monty" prior to the Karousel (ie a Cirkus bearing)


I personally never felt that was any better than the two immediately previous versions one of which is the middle of the three in my list.

You pays yer money .....

You'll need an outer, and basically they're priced according to condition but will all sound the same. I'd be tempted to get the cheapest scummiest one provided it didn't have really bad damage and T-Cut the dead lacquer off then polish and wax it. I'd want to pay less than £100 since a brand spanker is only £200.

Get new springs and grommets ( and bolts if you need them) because they're inexpensive

If you need a top plate - whatever is out there

You may also need things like belt guide and motor mounting hemispheres

cross brace if you don't have one.

Any one will do if you buy Martin's 'Geddon" clone - and I recommend you do. It won't do 45 without a pully adaptor. How may 45's do you actually have?

Otherwise one with six stand off mounting points for a Valhalla or Lingo type supply

Pattern part pulley adaptor



Real one

+ The arm & cartridge of your choice.


Bear in mind you can always move bits on should you wish to upgrade.
That's the sort of info I was looking for. I have a large collection of 12" 45rpm discs too, so would require the pulley. I have taken up Martins offer of the Geddon clone to.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Based on what you have and what you need (used prices):

Subchassis and inner platter - 100.
Outer platter - 100
Springs, grommets, nuts bolts, washers - 100
Cross brace - 25
Power cable - 15
Valhalla PS - 100
45RPM adapter - 25
motor mounting hardware - 50
Belt - 25
Lid - 100
Base - 50
feet - 10
Arm/cable - starting at 300
Cartridge (New) 100
Miscellaneous and sundry bits (P clips, screws, etc, etc) - 100

So you're looking at about 1200 minimum and that could easily go to 2000 if you buy from somewhere like LP12 Bits.
Have you looked at complete early spec LP12s you could swap out thew plinth for?
 
Thanks guys for all your thoughts. I am weighing up all the possibilities. I have a good turntable already and this is a itch that I have to scratch.
 
Next job up is to corner brase the plinth. Anyone got the dimensions of these. I've looked at a few threads but can't find any sizes.
 
Don't go there, it's not a recognised retrofit and will actually devalue a non braced plinth significantly.

You can't do it "properly" because to do so requires a suitable channel to be routered into the sides of the plinth all the way round prior to assembly. There's no way to do it after assembly.
 
Hi Keith,

I've been setting up and building LP12s for years, I have the bits here to build one just now, so I can give you more info than you want! ;0) Much easier over the phone though so PM me.

You can't really fit corner braces to the old plinths. The braces fit in a grove which the old plinths don't have. I've seen sellers who glue braces to the surface and advertise the deck as having a braced plinth but it's bollocks. There's not going to be much strength to those braces so it's a waste of time.

I wouldn't worry too much. An un-braced plinth is very old now, at least forty years, and it will have done all the settling it's going to do. If it's still flat and tight now it's very probably going to stay that way.

Buying all the bits individually is a very expensive way to build an LP12. Budget for about a grand or more. There are too many variables to type them all out but if you can give me a call I can talk you through them.
 
To be honest, if you are in a 50HZ power supply area, Valhalla PS might as well use a resistor to reduce voltage. It's completely unnecessary.
 


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