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Best 'grout' for concrete paving slabs.

Mullardman

Moderately extreme...
I've almost finished re- laying my ' patio'. It's been a slow job, interrupted by failing knees etc., but just 5 2x2 slabs to go now. So, I'm looking to use something to fill the gaps.
In the past I've tried kiln dried sand, dry mix sand and cement, and wet mortar. None ideal.
Loads of stuff online, in Screwfix etc, but wildly divergent reviews.
Any recommendations?
 
I am not sure how close your pavers are, but when we (OK, it was the contractor) put down tumbled concrete brick-sized pavers for a patio we used polymeric sand that is brushed in and sets with the application of water. It then doesn't wash out over time. Probably not good for widely spaced pavers.
 
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Last year I renovated my sandstone patio. Used a hammer drill to remove all the old mortar grout, brushed it out and then vacuumed it! I used this:
https://www.nexuspavingsystems.co.uk/products/fusion
really easy to use. However, I didn’t just push it it and leave it. I did small areas at a time ie one tub, and used a pointing tool and tuck finger pointer to finish. Lots of videos on line. I chose this one after recommendations from a friend who lays patios for a living.
After its first Northumberland winter it’s looking as good as new.
 
Usually I use a weak mix of dry sand and cement, 5 to 1. It's OK but not great. I suspect better is a lime mortar. Takes weeks to go off but that's not a problem on a patio. As to durability, if it's good enough for Macchu Piccu it's good enough to see me out.
 
For an easy to install and completely professional long lasting job use Joint-It. Used this on a patio I laid 5 years ago and looks as good today as it did then.

 
Sika Fastfix Allweather is excellent. I’ve used it for a brick patio and it survives the annual pressure wash easily.
 
As I said, take a little longer getting it deep into the joint, light spray of water and use the pointing finger tool to finish off. Make sure you wear gloves. Cheap disposable ones are fine. It even passed the wife test and she is a hard task master.
 
we used polymeric sand that is brushed in and sets with the application of water. It then doesn't wash out over time.
Best answer so far.

(and if anyone reading this insists on regular pressure-washing for some reason - such as insufficient falls designed-in, to drain the surface - expect to replace whatever you used , far too often.)

Or - and better, use an open-jointed, interlocking block that is designed to drain sustainably, requiring NO grout - generic UK term is 'formpave' (many alternatives available). It's laid over a basic/standard 'Type 1 fill' bed with a non-woven geotextile beneath the block; and the clever thing is, that textile develops a bacterial mat that will break down things like minor oil pollutants - perfect for domestic driveways up to very large car parks. Drainage by infiltration = the right answer.
 
Hi Martin,
Guilty with the old pressure washer. However, after a Northumberland winter the algae does build up. Even with the correct fall it’s wet up here and often never dries. Perfect algae conditions. I use a spray of a commercial algeacide (diluted from neat, works out so cheap) and then use the dreaded power wash. My gout had lasted over 20 years. The new bush in stuff is very resistant and transformed my patio.
 
Patio grouting update. Last weekend I helped my dad grout his patio, we used the Sika polymer sand product, it's great. He had woefully underestimated the amount, we had one pack that covered about 20 sqm. So after we had laid that we got another 2 packs, thanks to some gappy bits courtesy of the power washer both were consumed in the next 30 sqm. Back again to Wickes, used half of another tub. So we did need about 1 tub at £35 per 20 sqm, total cost for the 60 sqm £135. It's not cheap. STill, it's done now. I'm about to do mine. More of the same? No, sand and cement, costs buttons, lasts 4-5 years.
 
This year I used a dry mix of Floor Tile cement (swimming pool) grade mixed with some play sand. I watered it in and this has set very hard and I hope it will last for a few years. Quite a cheap option compared to some.
 
This year I used a dry mix of Floor Tile cement (swimming pool) grade mixed with some play sand. I watered it in and this has set very hard and I hope it will last for a few years. Quite a cheap option compared to some.
I imagine that ti le cement is an epoxy modified mortar, so very strong. It's often used on tiled factory floors and if used properly it's hugely strong. Eye watering costs though, mostly preparing the substrate for heavy traffic.
 


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