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A&r a60 - problem with speakers fuse

Not quite ^. Here is a simplified explanation.
The AP version is the same pre-amp and amp circuit on the main pcb. In itself - it does not then become a power amp.
In the AP there is an additional small pcb mounted by the DIN sockets on the back.
This in effect "splits" out the signal from left and right pre-amp and enables it to be sent via the DIN cable to another device. After the other device has processed it it can return and then be amplified by the amp circuit,

The device could be a graphic equaliser, for example, though I suspect very rarely used for this purpose.

Mostly the signal would have been sent to the inputs of a larger power amp - such as A&R made SA150 or SA200 amps. The A60 is then being used just as a pre-amp ie tone controls and volume.
If not being used for this purpose, A&R had a special shorting DIN plug that just connected the two sides of the pcb - and thus it works as a standard A60.

Alternatively, the signal could go to a special A&R SA60 amp with a crossover card made specially for a very few speakers of that time that were bi-wired. Such as the Arcam One.
The set up then had the A60 drive the treble and bass of one speaker channel and the SA60 drive the treble and bass of the other. I have this set up in my basement and whilst an interesting exercise - its not so wonderful as one might hope. Perhaps that why they did not sell very many of these ?

David's idea is a little complicated but can be done with some electronics experience. Might be fun to do but I expect that there much easier ways of doing this with amps already set up for this.
 
Not quite ^. Here is a simplified explanation.
The AP version is the same pre-amp and amp circuit on the main pcb. In itself - it does not then become a power amp.
In the AP there is an additional small pcb mounted by the DIN sockets on the back.
This in effect "splits" out the signal from left and right pre-amp and enables it to be sent via the DIN cable to another device. After the other device has processed it it can return and then be amplified by the amp circuit,

The device could be a graphic equaliser, for example, though I suspect very rarely used for this purpose.

Mostly the signal would have been sent to the inputs of a larger power amp - such as A&R made SA150 or SA200 amps. The A60 is then being used just as a pre-amp ie tone controls and volume.
If not being used for this purpose, A&R had a special shorting DIN plug that just connected the two sides of the pcb - and thus it works as a standard A60.

Alternatively, the signal could go to a special A&R SA60 amp with a crossover card made specially for a very few speakers of that time that were bi-wired. Such as the Arcam One.
The set up then had the A60 drive the treble and bass of one speaker channel and the SA60 drive the treble and bass of the other. I have this set up in my basement and whilst an interesting exercise - its not so wonderful as one might hope. Perhaps that why they did not sell very many of these ?

David's idea is a little complicated but can be done with some electronics experience. Might be fun to do but I expect that there much easier ways of doing this with amps already set up for this.

Yeah there was brief "enlightenment" when ALSO was set up... Active Loudspeaker Standards Organisation. A&R, ARC, Nytech and a few more no doubt.
 
Thanks Julian, very clear explanation that is very helpful.

After a few research I'm not sure I'll ever take the dsp route. I like to own vintage equipment and I think it's a bit a different philosophy.
 
Yeah there was brief "enlightenment" when ALSO was set up... Active Loudspeaker Standards Organisation. A&R, ARC, Nytech and a few more no doubt.
I have previously wondered what goals the ALSO had but its remaining traces are few.

However in the context of the A&R A60 family there's a quite informative two-page document with diagrams here on the UK HiFi History Society pages.
 
Thanks John - I uploaded those pages for Jim from a pile of Arcam papers that came my way.
There is a reply email from John Dawson via Harmon owned Arcam on this earlier thread about Arcam One speakers.
Has John's recollections about the ALSO set up.
https://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/arcam-one-speakers-instructions-or-owner-manual.220692/
Thanks for that Julian. I can now see some of what ALSO wanted to achieve and the reasons for some features in these A&R products.
 
Hi there,

ok I’m pretty bored at home and had time to consider a few options offered to me. I think I will try to fix the amp myself for two reasons: the first is cost, as posting the amp + parts + repair would probably cost me as much as the amp and I don’t think it’s reasonable, but the second one is the most important,I think if I want to keep buying vintage equipment I need to know how to repair them a minimum. So I’ll give it a try, I will orders the transistors, a soldering iron and a multimeter, the paste for the heat sink (any recommendation?) and we’ll see.

just two questions, what size is the allen key for the control knobs? I need to buy one. Is there anything else I need, tools or small accessories? Also if you have a recommendation for a website in UK where order all parts, I’m interested.

Thanks a lot for your precious help, I try « hard » to understand how these things work. capacitors, transistors, value, that’s all new for me.
 
For heatsink paste I used Arctic Silver as I had it on hand, it's a product popular for use on computer CPU's, any like that should be suitable.
 
For heatsink paste I used Arctic Silver as I had it on hand, it's a product popular for use on computer CPU's, any like that should be suitable.

Yes, it`s supposed to be a useful improvement over the bog standard white stuff - still makes a king mess of your shirt though, if you`re careless.
 
I haven`t looked into it but people that run their processors to within an inch of their lives seem quite keen.
 
Hi there,

ok I’m pretty bored at home and had time to consider a few options offered to me. I think I will try to fix the amp myself for two reasons: the first is cost, as posting the amp + parts + repair would probably cost me as much as the amp and I don’t think it’s reasonable, but the second one is the most important,I think if I want to keep buying vintage equipment I need to know how to repair them a minimum. So I’ll give it a try, I will orders the transistors, a soldering iron and a multimeter, the paste for the heat sink (any recommendation?) and we’ll see.

just two questions, what size is the allen key for the control knobs? I need to buy one. Is there anything else I need, tools or small accessories? Also if you have a recommendation for a website in UK where order all parts, I’m interested.

Thanks a lot for your precious help, I try « hard » to understand how these things work. capacitors, transistors, value, that’s all new for me.

The Allen key size is 1.5mm. No other special tools needed. Good luck.
 
Thank you. I'm ordering everything right now Julian.

Just one question, for the q18/19 and 118/119, which one is ztx653 and 753? I can't see anything on them.
 
Thank you. I'm ordering everything right now Julian.

Just one question, for the q18/19 and 118/119, which one is ztx653 and 753? I can't see anything on them.
Hi there it's the order they are written
Q18 is Ztx653 and Q19 is Ztx753 and then repeat for the other channel.
 
Hi guys,

Today I changed the 4 transistors and q18/19 q118/119w

it took me a few hours, it wasn’t easy for me at all. My soldering skills are pretty bad and it's rather ugly.

however the problem still occurs , fs201/202 blows instantly one the amp is turn on.

well I’ll keep that on side for now, I’m pretty discouraged today.

when I order my parts, let’s say bc547, what’s the difference in between 547b, bta, btf, btu...? How do I know I ordered the right part?
 
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Q18/19 are the driver transistors for the TIP3055 power transistors (Q20/21) - although both driver and output transistors are connected to FS201/2 it far more likely that the output transistors are the culprits for a short circuit. Q18/19 are small and would most likely be the candidates for being obliterated if they went short circuit.

Here are some simple tests you can try (with the DMM you bought)

First
1. Remove FS201/2
2. Check between FS201 (pos DMM lead) and 0v - should be high resistance or open circuit
3. Check between 0v(pos DMM lead) and FS202 - should be high resistance or open circuit
4. Check between FS201 and FS202 - should be high resistance or open circuit (not really needed)

A short or low resistance indicates bad news.

Second

Check Q20/21 for failure - try this in-situ at first if it doesn't work then they will have to be removed.

This page describes the process quite well - the numbers below are for TIP3055

Using your picture the Q20/21 pins are (looking from the front from left to right) B(ase) C(ollector) E(mitter)
Switch to resistance (or diode setting if it has it)

Positive lead on B, neg on E - the reading approx 3MOhms (or 0.56v in diode setting)
Positive lead on B, neg on C - the reading approx 3MOhms (or 0.56v in diode setting)
Positive lead on C, neg on E - the reading approx open circuit (or 0v in diode setting)
Positive lead on E, neg on B - the reading approx open circuit (or 0v in diode setting)

Don't forget you have to set the bias voltage via RV2 after changing anything in the driver circuitry.

As regards the types (BC547 etc) stick to what was fitted if you can - the variations are listed in the relevant datasheets, in general they should all do the job.

Perhaps there may be variations in the order of the pins - that is not a good thing as in that case they are not directly interchangeable!
 
I followed your instructions carefully. Thanks a lot it is helpful.

C to B and C to E gives me 1 on q20 and q120 when I use the diode mode. It seems wrong. I changed them yesterday, I don’t really understand.

that’s very new to me, I feel pretty lost with the measures.

however q19/18 and 119/118 were the wrong way. Now the fuses don’t blow anymore when the amp is on. My bad! I didn’t plug the speakers yet as I guess I need to measure rv2 as stated above and am not quite sure how to do it. I read the manual but still unsure. I’m doing some research now
 
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I followed your instructions carefully. Thanks a lot it is helpful.

C to B and C to E gives me 1 on q20 and q120 when I use the diode mode. It seems wrong. I changed them yesterday, I don’t really understand.

that’s very new to me, I feel pretty lost with the measures.

however q19/18 and 119/118 were the wrong way. Now the fuses don’t blow anymore when the amp is on. My bad! I didn’t plug the speakers yet as I guess I need to measure rv2 as stated above and am not quite sure how to do it. I read the manual but still unsure. I’m doing some research now

Sounds like they're blown SC. Expect 0.48 - 0.58V ish for power transistors and 0.62 - 0.74V ish for small signal transistors. 99 times out of 100 they'll measure short or open if blown, usually short, so don't worry if they read a tiny bit outside the sort of figures I gave. I don't know your meter but suspect it's showing 1mV or 10mV... ie dead short near as damn it.
 
Well I got a cheap multimeter in my soldering iron kit, I'm not too sure how to read it as I never used one before and it doesn't say mV on the screen, but I tried in diode mode.

All I know is that the fuses don't blow anymore. It doesn't mean I fixed it though, I didn't try. I try to figure out how to adjust the bias
 


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