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2 sub or not 2 subs

Integration is one of the strengths of the Genelec system, the system performs a global correction, even including phase ,so the sub becomes a fourth driver, and the active room correction takes care of any room bass resonance issues.
Keith.
 
Do the pots have a start and stop position or do the turn endlessly?

Surprisingly, I'm really not fussed about subs. In fact I don't really know why I'm messing with the system :) Either way It's not something I'm gonna rush into.

They start and stop iirc - I only played with mine very briefly. I think they are at one of the endstops (0dB) to start with. Might be wrong - just make a wee mark with something and you'll be fine.
 
They start and stop iirc - I only played with mine very briefly. I think they are at one of the endstops (0dB) to start with. Might be wrong - just make a wee mark with something and you'll be fine.

Might just have a twiddle when the MIRUS is plumbed in!
 
And you've got the input sensitivity controls to play with on the 25s - might be worthwhile setting it to the lowest level (-6dB i think) if you're not using the MIRUS at highish levels. Would just mean there's slightly less attenuation being done digitally inside the MIRUS. Of course, there are those that believe that JRivers own 64bit volume control is the best thing to use, and set everything else to 0dB .. Hours of happy fun awaits you, you are doomed :)
 
Already have the input level turned down. I'm using the INVICTA well away from the 96db threshold Resonessence claim to be where the loss starts from with 16bit. I use it around 40db and above, which is even above the claimed loss for 24 bit audio.
 
Indeed. It's not a joke, more like a future plan :)

just_do_it_you_wimp__by_choochoomcg-d50gy6e.jpg
 
I have two AE subs. Having two gives a more open soundstage. There's some research somewhere that suggests you should really have three or more :) Multiple subs help with resonance issues. I've found it easier with two than with one.

- Richard.
 
I guess I don't really see the point in adding large subs to small ATC actives, when you could have a better engineered solution by simply getting some bigger ATC actives.

FWIW, I bought my C1 more out of curiosity than anything else. It integrates well, and is a definite boon on some material, but I could easily live without it if I had to.
 
I guess I don't really see the point in adding large subs to small ATC actives, when you could have a better engineered solution by simply getting some bigger ATC actives.

FWIW, I bought my C1 more out of curiosity than anything else. It integrates well, and is a definite boon on some material, but I could easily live without it if I had to.

That all sounds close to my view.
Darren
 
Surely sub bass info isn't or can't be handled in say a pair of 100's alone.. why else do folk/studios add subs to 150's even??

fox, what do the 2x 0.15 subs you have wid'ya 100's add to 2 channel audio??
 
We speak in general, CK, but I really think the best thing is to experiment to see what works for your listening space.
 
I'd love to have the whole ATC line up here, could even fit 150's in if needs be... But at 3m distance from the speakers, 100's would be about right. Still, I'd want to try them with subs.. maybe one day ATC will come around with a van full of kit for a days play! The new place I'm designing will have a dedicated 'music/film/gaming' area and will probably need to be 5.1. 25A's would make superb rear speakers ;)
 
Well the ATC 150s to 300s thread has started talking about subs, but I will make the comments here.

My view is that integrating subs, especially without bass management as with ATC, is tricky. I've got it to a state which doesn't hurt normal bass, but the added value is marginal. So it can be done, but with limitations and caveats (and I've achieved my result only with extensive experimentation and measurement with XTZ).

The constant attraction is -3db free standing at 18Hz (according to SCM0.1/12 and 0.1/15 manual)! Me and subs = moth to a flame!

Ideally, I think with bass management and sub between speakers (ideally a sub under/near each speaker) in theory you will be adding a fourth active driver. I've been thinking for some time about some DSP box to implement the crossover between sub and the rest, in the digital domain. Basically mimicking the Genelec system mentioned. Might also need a delay somewhere. The problem is, phase correction will also be required I think. Perhaps a Behringer DEQ box does all this ... any advice (apart from buy Genelec!)?

In summary, I think it can be done, but for ATC owners buying a bigger speaker (up to 150s anyway) is a more sure-fire route than a sub. The actives have a third order roll-off (somewhere between a sealed box and a typical ported speaker) so I expect those big 150s will hit some deep notes with low distortion.
Darren
 


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