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New LP12 hinges - insert metal sheet now?

Zombie

Zombie

pfm Member
Crawled to the cross and bought a new set of hinges for the lid. Can't stop being amazed that Linn sells +10 grand turntables with these.
Anyway, is there any point in inserting metal sheet in them now or wait until they begin to give in?
 
I think the new ones are less likely to breakthrough. The genuine replacements on mine are still intact after more than 15 years.
 
I’d do it from new - unless they have changed the plastic body since i last looked, it will start to weaken/deform from when first assembled.

it used to really annoy me, poor design giving polymers a bad name 😂
 
Like James I replaced mine many years ago and they have been fine, better than the originals . Roger of Tigerpaw was thinking about making some but it got very expensive and Tigerpaw are no more . Of course the LP12 50 metal ones may yet be released as an upgrade but lord knows how much they would sell for .
LP 12 hinges are a bloody disgrace - glad I got that off my chest .
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
Good idea, have you got any pics?
Click to expand...
croak said:
Not my idea.

http://forums.linn.co.uk/bb/archive/index.php/thread-5731-3.html

"skiffle0
2010-02-08, 20:30
(2010-02-06 16:43)vicdiaz Wrote: [ -> ]Pics of reinforced hinges would be good idea!

I have changed my plan.

Instead of sticking a plate to the outside (too messy), I cut thin zinc sheet in to 16mm(width) x 17mm (depth) rectangles (one for each hinge).

The sheet can then be inserted in to the inside of the spring casing. I hope that this will spread the force acting on the polymer casing.

I have thought of marketing it as the "klunk". advantages seem to be a lack of transient "thwack", as the lid hits the plinth, and inky black silences between lid movements.
Only problem is, that someone will possibly market a "klunk klone" at a tenth of the price, and dispute my measurements!#

best wishes, Guy."

yjunypaz.jpg


ynetere5.jpg


mudadune.jpg
Click to expand...
Fame at last :)
 
Difficult to get it under the spring "arm" that's inside. If it's still on the side of the sheet there's no effect
 
I drill mine and tap an m3 thread down the side of the bulge into the front plastic bit if that makes sense.
 
The hinges are one of the few Linn parts that are inexpensive. Probably because they're just standard hinges they buy in so they couldn't get away with it. Complaining that they don't last thirty years is churlish. Just buy a new pair when they go.
 
Mr Pig said:
The hinges are one of the few Linn parts that are inexpensive. Probably because they're just standard hinges they buy in so they couldn't get away with it. Complaining that they don't last thirty years is churlish. Just buy a new pair when they go.
Click to expand...
I simply release the prong of the metal spring and use the lid just as a dust cover.
The unsprung hinges are used to locate the lid back on and can be lifted and held to brush stylus etc if necessary.
I always play mine with the lid off so it’s not really an issue.
 
That drilling tip was bvilliant. Will try it on old hinges first. Or maybe even make a slot on the side and slide in a metal sheet.
 
My originals failed - spring burst through plastic shell, bought new and casing started bulging within a week which led me to come up with metal shim modification.
Large force of strong spring, applied over small tip of spring resulting in failure of polymer case (similar to stiletto heels on cork/wood floors), flattening end of spring would help

I don't like it when a company allows a product to be left with a known fault for years just for the sake of a continued revenue source.
It may be “only” £15/hinge but it doesn’t engender a feeling of quality engineering.
 
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