Tyres are not “Jaguar fit “, they are “ Jaguar approved” , they don’t “fit” differently. New Jags are fitted with Michelins, unless (at the dealer) a customer asks for a different brand fitted. Continental, Pirelli and Avon are also “approved” and one or two others which I cannot remember, been a number of years since I stopped working ( Michelin). Folk can fit any tyre brand to a Jag, (providing they match Jag wheel sizing ) they simply will not perform as well as the approved versions, nor last as long.The Jaguar XE had a puncture yesterday afternoon. I am driving it on its "space saver" spare. The tyres have always been Dunlop Sport MAXX RT "Jaguar fit" and available without any difficulty.
However, I cannot find any "Jaguar fit" versions online this morning. In a local branch of a national tyre fitter I was told that next availability is the end of January.
The person quoted special homolgation testing when I asked about whether the "Jaguar fit" version was meaningfully different to the standard version. However he could not go into detail and suggested a possible source. This has not proved succesful.
I suspect I could get a new tyre at a Jaguar dealer but Is there any information around about compatibility/incompatibility and whether fitting the standard version is OK or not?
How did you manage to get a side wall failure? I've never seen that other than age related cracking or by kerb damage.When I ran an S type the recommended Pirelli p6000's were specially formulated for Jag and weren't the same as the standard ones and I kept buying them until the car was pretty old. Eventually £140 per corner was a bit much in the context of the car's value so I went with part worn Avon ZV5's and didn't really notice any difference except the Avons were a bit prone to side wall failures. Not sure I actually saved much in the long term due to having to replace the failed Avon's on a couple of occasions.
Depending on how far worn the dead tyre was it may be worth replacing the pair, particularly if you can't get the exact same one or the other one is down to less than 5 mm say.
You can always keep the good one taken off as a spare for when the next tyre goes, or sell it as a part worn on Ebay. I've certainly kept and reused tyres in those circumstances.
I came a bit late to this thread, but can offer some tyre industry knowledge.
... In those days there was no customer specific marking, so the only way to know you had the right tyre was to look at the coloured bands around the tread which were unique to each tyre design - easy when new, bit tricky when you try to match a tyre in kiwi fit to what you have been using for two years...
I did notice online that the Jaguar versions of the tyre I want have different ratings for fuel / wet grip / noise compared to the standard version.Yes there can be a vehicle specific version of a tyre, which more recently can have markings to identify it. I had a V90 recently which had the usual size / speed / load ratings, and a "V" after that on the sidewall to say "Volvo"
Tyre factories know what range they make, and who they sell OEM tyres to. When I was working at a factory, there was 4 different versions of one tyre size, going to either Saab, Jaguar, Peugeot or Honda for fitment on new cars. Each had a different internal construction to emphasise some performance aspect or other, but if you had a two year old car and put a Honda tyre on a Jaguar for example, you wouldn't notice much difference. Critical things like grip level (from tread compound) would not be different. In those days there was no customer specific marking, so the only way to know you had the right tyre was to look at the coloured bands around the tread which were unique to each tyre design - easy when new, bit tricky when you try to match a tyre in kiwi fit to what you have been using for two years.
As Locheeboy says, any tyre of the right size/load/speed can be fitted, but if you had a puncture on a nearly new car, you might want to buy from the main dealer to get the same spec.
How did you manage to get a side wall failure? I've never seen that other than age related cracking or by kerb damage.
Apparently Avon ZV5's were a bit notorious for it. A decent pothole is probably all that's needed to cause it. Wouldn't have bought them if I'd known.How did you manage to get a side wall failure? I've never seen that other than age related cracking or by kerb damage.
I imagine not, nor would I. I've only ever seen sidewall damage on a mate's car when he biffed it up a kerb and on MTB tyres when you slice them on a sharp rock. MTB tyres are chunky on the wearing face but the sides are thinner to keep the weight down and flexibility up. Unfortunately this means that a sharp rock can slice the side of your tyre when your backside is shoving down on it.Apparently Avon ZV5's were a bit notorious for it. A decent pothole is probably all that's needed to cause it. Wouldn't have bought them if I'd known.
Nah…the letter “V” on a tyre sidewall signifies the speed rating of that particular tyre type…I came a bit late to this thread, but can offer some tyre industry knowledge.
Yes there can be a vehicle specific version of a tyre, which more recently can have markings to identify it. I had a V90 recently which had the usual size / speed / load ratings, and a "V" after that on the sidewall to say "Volvo"
Tyre factories know what range they make, and who they sell OEM tyres to. When I was working at a factory, there was 4 different versions of one tyre size, going to either Saab, Jaguar, Peugeot or Honda for fitment on new cars. Each had a different internal construction to emphasise some performance aspect or other, but if you had a two year old car and put a Honda tyre on a Jaguar for example, you wouldn't notice much difference. Critical things like grip level (from tread compound) would not be different. In those days there was no customer specific marking, so the only way to know you had the right tyre was to look at the coloured bands around the tread which were unique to each tyre design - easy when new, bit tricky when you try to match a tyre in kiwi fit to what you have been using for two years.
As Locheeboy says, any tyre of the right size/load/speed can be fitted, but if you had a puncture on a nearly new car, you might want to buy from the main dealer to get the same spec.
dem manufacturer specific coding is marked in a different location to the size/speed rating/loading.Nah…the letter “V” on a tyre sidewall signifies the speed rating of that particular tyre type…
Exactly so. Those OEM markings are different from speed ratings.dem manufacturer specific coding is marked in a different location to the size/speed rating/loading.
My 992 specific tyres are marked "NA" high on the tyre wall next to the tyre manufacturer and tyre model.
N = Manufactured for Porsche
A = Manufactured for a 992
Audi | A0, A01 |
Audi Quattro | R01, RO2, R03 |
BMW | * |
BMW/ Mercedes | *MO |
BMW/ Mercedes Runflat | *MOE |
Jaguar | J |
Land Rover | LR |
Maserati | MGT |
Mercedes Benz | MO, M01 |
Mercedes Benz Runflat | MOE |
Porsche | NO, N1, N2 |
Tesla | TO |
Barry, were you driving like John Thaw on the way to a suspected bank robbery with ashtray contents going everywhere on the corners?Crossply Dunlop RS5s were original fitment on Jaguar MkIIs, and fitted to mine in 1971. Jeez, they were utter crap and they wore out in next to no time as well which was actually a good thing as I had no choice but to spring for some decent radials (Continentals).
Porsche N-marked tyres | Your crucial contact with the road - Porsche AG
The best Porsche-approved tyres for your Porsche wheels? Discover the difference N-marked tyres can make.www.porsche.com
This is heading towards becoming a cable thread. Presumably if Porsche say they work in conjunction with tyre manufs with specific criteria, and test them, then they do. What’s not to like?You can fool some of the people.... get a grip man