Because no one wants to be anonymous?
Because being part of a cult requires sacrifice?
Rega P8 vs RP8
- Thread starter gerlando
- Start date
Because no one wants to be anonymous?
Because being part of a cult requires sacrifice?
MikeMA
pfm Member
Paint on a tonearm alters the physical characteristics so must make some sort of difference to the way it behaves. Whether this is audible or matters very much is another issue. Michell strip all the paint of their TecnoArms, which are just tarted up Regas, shot blast them, drill holes in them, and replace the counterweight with their fancy underslung version. They look rather nice and don't sound too bad, though I've never had an odrinary Rega to compare it with so I can't say it's better or worse. Any how I sold mine and bought an SME instead.
I certainly know they were aware of it. I remember reading an interview with Roy Gandy where he mentioned that removing the paint was the only modification that he approved of. Back then the castings were not so clean and and painting the arm was the only cost-effective way to get a cosmetically acceptable finish. He said that this is the main reason the RB1000 sounded better, lack of paint.
John
Rack’em Up!
I know the Linn Keel and Greenstreet subchassis’ are anodized. Other subchassis are painted, I’m sure there’s a difference depending on the finish.
paul darwin
pfm Member
DimitryZ, unfortunately I am not in a position to tell folks what to do with their gear and whether it is better or not, that is for them to decide. All I would say is that there is a chance that they could invalidate their lifetime warranty if they damage the arm and it needs remedial work as a consequence, best, PD
DimitryZ
pfm Member
DimitryZ
pfm Member
Marketing. It's a whole science, you know.
DimitryZ
pfm Member
Some believe there is a clear sound difference depending on the color of the paint. For example, black improves the low frequencies, while silver has a more transparent treble.
DimitryZ
pfm Member
Drilling holes in the arm tube seems like a pretty dumb idea. Makes things worse in every way. But it does create a visually different product that can be sold at markup.
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
Really? I've never even noticed that it was different!
I think it's painted silver.
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
Oh. That's very different. Never mind.
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
The old one has a more comfortable contour.
I only hold the tip so I've never noticed.
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
The side of my index finger goes up into the crook of the finger lift. The old ones had a smooth, gentle curve; the new ones have a sharper, narrower space.
DimitryZ
pfm Member
Here is a finger lift comparison of an early naughts RB1000 and a modern RB880.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BCIPIJHeIDVf78oZ76M7xqpKbgQUSNUB/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BAcAKexyO74FQXEmdEZhJHjDxSAQEuRP/view?usp=drivesdk.
Stripping the paint off tonearms to improve sound quality. This is something new to me, surely an exercise I wouldn't embark on although I understand it's all personal as Paul Darwin has mentioned. It's a whole lot easier to upgrade the whole turntable than doing modifications that are irreversible. Personally, I wouldn't consider any used gear that has been modified with non-original parts as I prefer all stock and standard. Even some of Naim modifications (Superlink upgrade) which convert the 282 to 252 spec, well, sort of, are reversible.
A long time ago, I did receive a suggestion from my Rega dealer to resolve the issue I had with the Rega P5 when I owned it. The plastic subplatter was somehow in contact with the platter when the thing was in motion, thus causing a minor friction sound when the two were rubbing against each other. The dealer suggested that I use a pen knife to scrape the excess bit of plastic protrusion from the subplatter to resolve the problem. Hah! I did follow his suggestion and it did resolve the issue.
I'm not sure if the current budget Rega decks still use plastic subplatters. I thought of upgrading to one of the metal subplatters at one point of time but that didn't happen, and the P5 is now gone.
A long time ago, I did receive a suggestion from my Rega dealer to resolve the issue I had with the Rega P5 when I owned it. The plastic subplatter was somehow in contact with the platter when the thing was in motion, thus causing a minor friction sound when the two were rubbing against each other. The dealer suggested that I use a pen knife to scrape the excess bit of plastic protrusion from the subplatter to resolve the problem. Hah! I did follow his suggestion and it did resolve the issue.
I'm not sure if the current budget Rega decks still use plastic subplatters. I thought of upgrading to one of the metal subplatters at one point of time but that didn't happen, and the P5 is now gone.
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
Both of yours are the newer style. Look at the P25 upthread for a picture of what the original ones were like.
If you're trying to suggest I'm talking out of my hat, I suggest you look in the mirror. I have an original RB300 and an RB808 within a foot of each other and can make a direct comparison too:
DimitryZ
pfm Member
I am not trying to suggest anything.Both of yours are the newer style. Look at the P25 upthread for a picture of what the original ones were like.
If you're trying to suggest I'm talking out of my hat, I suggest you look in the mirror. I have an original RB300 and an RB808 within a foot of each other and can make a direct comparison too:
Thank you for an explanation and visual evidence.