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Tyres.

Many thanks for all responses.

-My spare is a spacesaver.

-I'm feeling a slight change in steering characteristics with the 'odd' tyres on the front.. though actual grip etc. seems fine. The tread pattern Dunlop c.f. Lauffen is remarkably similar.

- Maybe get another Lauffen, switch both to rear and put current hardly worn BlueResponse rears on front?

Or see Lauffen as a 'loss' and get four new tyres all around. As I said, the biggest anoyance from the Dunlops is road noise. Any rec's for a quiet tyre?

- It's not a case of cash being tight.. but I don't want to spent unneccessarily.
 
Get another Lauffen - put them on the rear since you want the greater tread depth on the rear and keep the Dunlop they take off in case you get another unrepairable puncture in either of the remaining Dunlops. That’s what I’d do.
 
-I'm feeling a slight change in steering characteristics with the 'odd' tyres on the front.
put them on the rear since you want the greater tread depth on the rear

After my terrible time with slightly oversized tyres on the front (FWD) Skoda this time last year, I realised how sensitive these engine management things can be. Two new Coopertyres (American. I believe) on the front and all was well. Later had two budget Routemaster tyres put on the rear.

I thought it was at least undesirable to put different tyres on the driving axle of a FWD car, and esp a part worn. There has to be differences in tread, performance characteristics etc to slightly unsettle the steering at least.
 
Many thanks for all responses.

-My spare is a spacesaver.

-I'm feeling a slight change in steering characteristics with the 'odd' tyres on the front.. though actual grip etc. seems fine. The tread pattern Dunlop c.f. Lauffen is remarkably similar.

- Maybe get another Lauffen, switch both to rear and put current hardly worn BlueResponse rears on front?

Or see Lauffen as a 'loss' and get four new tyres all around. As I said, the biggest anoyance from the Dunlops is road noise. Any rec's for a quiet tyre?

- It's not a case of cash being tight.. but I don't want to spent unneccessarily.
If road noise is an issue, I would leave the Dunlops on the back.
 
I'm not a boy racer. I like to drive fast on straight roads which allow, but otherwise I'm pretty steady. My main priority is ride comfort and low noise. I'm not interested in winter/summer swaps etc.

Suggestions?

(04 Reg Civic 2.0 L 'S')

Your priority is ride comfort and you drive a Honda Civic 04 reg :rolleyes: I've got a 51 reg Civic but then I am a boy racer :) Ride comfort is one of it's downsides, it's not Ford XR3i hard but it's no Citroen either. I use Kumhos on mine but I couldn't comment on the ride comfort as I don't really notice.

If that 2.0 engine is a VTEC then you might be surprised at how much your car goes for 2nd hand. I'd sell it and get a much younger Toyota which is probably the only make that will match the Honda for reliability. If you don't like driving much then maybe a big Lexus with > 100,000 miles on the clock but go for peanuts...

BTW you don't mention how many miles it's done so have you had the front discs replaced (needed doing at 100K miles)? If not then using Honda replacements is well worth it, the OEM ones I've got suffer from fade. Also watch out for MOT failures with rusty brake disc covers. Unlike everyone else, Honda have these as one piece with the hub so replacement involves new hubs and wheel bearings :eek: all of which are Honda part only. £600 to you squire.
 
Evening! To be accurate. my prioriity is ride comfort from the fitted tyres.. The car.. I'm stuck with.. Yes 2.0 L VTEC It's done a little over 70k and has been very well maintained. New calipers and discs all around in the last couple of years as they do seem to be a weakness. I've had it since 2012 and have changed oil and filter annually, using Castrol Edge.. despite annual mileage maybe around 5k. Anything breaks/wears out.. it gets changed. As time goes. I notice more and more folk admiring it.

After a minor rear end shunt a couple of years back, Insurance wanted to scrap it and offered way less than £1k I told them to 'go away' and demanded repair.

A very fine car. Not high on gadgets, but what it has works.. and it will fly if asked.

At 71.. and weakening a bit.. this really could well be my last car.
 
And stop being a pie key with the scrap metal ;)

The term you are searching for is 'pikey'.

What's wrong with scrap metal? It is the noblest and probably the oldest form of recycling!! We cannot afford to dump metals which have cost us huge amounts of carbon to extract. We have them in relatively pure form and need to re-use them for the cost of melting and maybe a bit of refining.

Way back in the 1960s a local commercial vehicle garage used to dump all of their scrap on the wrong side of their fence. I went along every Saturday morning and gathered up alloy pistons, copper gaskets etc., and weighed them in at the local yard. 6d per pound for 'ally'.a bit more.. maybe 1s.6d for copper. I was saving the planet and boosting my pocket money. What's not to like?

The latest lot was copper pipe from my house and my brother's.. a few old taps etc.. a bag of spent brass cartridges ( .303 ) and a car battery. Why would any sane person put this in the bin..? And why take it to the 'Council Tip'..when you can do a similar journey and get a profit?
 
Please don’t use the word Pikey guys. As someone with some traveller heritage, I hate it, that community does too. It’s always used in a derogatory manner. No offence meant I’m sure, and also none taken, but I’m determined to ensure that in pfm we’re better than that.
 
Please don’t use the word Pikey guys. As someone with some traveller heritage, I hate it, that community does too. It’s always used in a derogatory manner. No offence meant I’m sure, and also none taken, but I’m determined to ensure that in pfm we’re better than that.

I agree, it is a nasty racist and offensive term that has no place on this forum.....
 
Last time I needed some new tyres, I decided to seek the advice and guidance of the pfm massive. Unfortunately, I put my query on the audio forum by mistake. So, having carefully compared the specs of several front-runners, I made my choice and arranged a blind test.

Happily for me, I ended up not needing new tyres at all, because the replacement car the insurance payout gave me had plenty of life in the existing tyres. :)
 
For me, tyres should be as silent as possible. That’s my only selection crirerion.
I settled for Michelin long ago. They are the quietest around.
 
On a front wheel drive car? Why?

The RAC I think it was pointed out that in emergency situation if the braking on the front is too much better than the rear, then you are more likely to spin the car.
Despite front wheel drive, best grip tyres should be on the rear.
 
On a front wheel drive car? Why?

I know you will find many many people arguing to contrary, but from a purely engineering and safety perspective the best tyres should be on the rear.

The reason is simply this .... let's say you're turning into a bend and you push the car beyond the limits of tyre adhesion (due to too much speed, less grippy road surface due to moisture or even ice or whatever). As the car starts to lose grip it is the fronts that will give up first causing, all other things being equal, understeer where the car tries to go straight on . 99% of drivers when they feel a car losing grip will stand on the brakes (it's not what you should do in all circumstances, but it's a natural reaction), this transfers weight to the front of the vehicle and extra force means extra grip and the car will experience less understeer and turn back into the bend.

Now repeat that with the better tyres on the front. In this case the rears will lose grip first and the car will start to experience oversteer (where the rear tries to come round), standing on the brakes will transfer weight to the front i.e. to the more grippy tyres and take weight off the rear where the tyres are already losing grip and this will result in an uncontrolled spin as the front grips harder and rear loses grip altogether.

This has nothing to do with the driven wheels, it's just pure physics. It also doesn't apply to those who know how to handle cars that are understeering, oversteering through use of the steering and throttle, but it does apply to 99% of drivers on the road who will simply panic and hit the brakes in those sort of situations.
 
I’m a stickler for tyres. If I’m buying a car, I won’t even consider one which doesn’t have matching decent make tyres. In my view it tells me a lot about how the car has been maintained generally. Aside from the obvious premium brands, others I’ve had which are very good are General (Grabbers are superb) and Cooper. Please don’t buy ditchfinders, for the sake of everyone else on the road.
 


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