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A vintage Quad thread.

I loved (and still do) the notion that you can open up the case and play around with different resistors etc to make sure you're perfectly matching components such as the Disc inputs, and that Quad not only condoned it, but published details on how to do it !

Mine was the good old camouflage brown 33/303 combination (whoever chose that colour? I suppose it made them stand out)
 
No wonder it took me so long to find one that was 'for sale'! :confused:
If it hadn't been for 'Lord Mortlock' I'd still be looking. :D

Mike Kelshaw
 
I loved (and still do) the notion that you can open up the case and play around with different resistors etc to make sure you're perfectly matching components such as the Disc inputs, and that Quad not only condoned it, but published details on how to do it !

That's what comes from a company where they have a solid grasp of audio engineering. Let and encourage the user to change the things which matter while discouraging fiddling with those which don't.
 
As this is to be my first foray into Quad ownership, I hope it won't be the same kind of soul that Alfas possess!

No. pretty much bulletproof. My 303 lasted 28 years before its big capacitors died. I had them replaced, and we're off for the next 28...
 
No. pretty much bulletproof. My 303 lasted 28 years before its big capacitors died. I had them replaced, and we're off for the next 28...

One 303 I was involved with did sterling service for most of the 70's and well into the 80's in a disco, while slowly getting buried in greasy dust and occasional beer splashes...
 
A weeks or two ago I took the plunge and ordered a set of Dada Electronics High-End Upgrade boards for my trusty 303. I really like this amp and can't imagine ever not running it in a system somewhere, so it kind of makes sense to take it as far as I can without altering the inherent Quad 303-ness that I like so much about it, plus hopefully extend it's life and make it more easily serviceable.

The Dada boards are beautifully made; modern glass-fiber PCBs, high quality components, nice multi-turn trim-pots etc, far nicer than the original 1960s brown boards that tend to fall apart if one tries to de/re-solder any components, even Quad's own service centre managed to lift some tracks when my amp was last serviced. These boards are entirely to the Quad 303 design, not a modification, so technically it's still a 303.

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Fitting them involves desoldering the old boards, soldering nice clip-tags to the Quad wiring loom and heat-shrinking it all nice and neat. The boards then just plug in and are ready for setup.

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The voltage levels need setting: 67v between pin 1 & 9, 33.5v between pin 1 & 5 and finally around 10mv between pin 4 & 6. Unfortunately there was an issue with one driver board (I could get no reading for bias), so I had to wait for another one to be shipped out by Dada. It landed today. One thing well worth noting for folk planning to do this update with a 1960s MkI Quad 303 like mine is that Quad flipped the driver-board input lead (the grey lead running to the front of the boards) in the later board design which the Dada boards copy, so despite my having photographs to work from I managed to get the signal and ground reversed resulting in an absolutely horrendous buzz (they are wrong in the picture above!). As I'm not electronics literate it took me a hour or two and some pixel-peeping at Google images to to figure out what the hell the issue was here, but once the input leads were reversed the buzz went and the amp is back up and running correctly. Respect to Quad for the quality of the main wiring loom - it's beautifully done with the cables exiting perfectly in order one at a time so even if you are colour-blind to some degree (I am) you can still wire the thing up!

I've not yet done the larger capacity PSU & output caps that came in the Dada kit as I want to hear and understand any changes in the boards alone first. My existing (Quad service fitted) caps are only 4-5 years old so still fine with plenty of life. I suspect I'll leave that one a year or two.

I've currently got it upstairs running with the Audio Synthesis PAS-02 passive pre and JR149s fronted by a Cambridge 651C CD player and it is sounding absolutely superb. It's the best system in the house to be honest. Just so open, clear and uncoloured, but warm and friendly too - not over-analytical or forward the way small speaker systems can be. It just works! In hard objective terms I'm pretty convinced the 303 is quieter than it was previously, with my ear up against the 149 I can hear no hiss or hum at all at my usual listening level, though I'll know more on that when I eventually stick it back in the La Scala system (those things find hiss and hum in everything due to being so efficient, and the 303 used to buzz just a little in this context).
 
An Amptastic Mini-1 T-Amp, which is doing a fine job in that context. If it wasn't for the subs in the TV system I'd swap the amps over permanently as I love what the 303 does into the 149s (it is apparently not wise to connect active subs to the speaker outs of T-Amps).
 
Anyone got any views about PSU / output capacitor orientation? Early 303s like mine had the four big caps oriented with the connectors facing downwards. These early amps had a tendency to spew messy electrolytic gunk across the driver board below after many yeas of use, so Quad later revised the design with a longer wiring harness so the caps pointed upwards.

Is this still a potential issue with typical modern capacitors? I notice the vast majority of amps these days just mount the caps connections downward, often soldered directly into the circuit board (e.g. Quad 306, pretty much all Japanese amps etc). I'm just thinking ahead to when I stick the higher capacity 4700 caps Dada supplied in - would you go to the hassle / faff of extending the harness or just bung 'em in facing downwards? They are Vishay caps, so I assume nice ones. I notice Quad didn't bother flipping the black 2200 caps they put in when I had it serviced back in 2009.

PS FWIW my 303 doesn't seem to get hot at all even when driving the inefficient little JR149s, the main heatsinks just feel room temperature and there was hardly any heat generated by the driver boards when I let it run for a few hours before tweaking the board settings.
 
Quad do a wiring extension kit which I fitted to mine. The reasoning goes, if Rob thinks it's worth doing then it will be done. My very old caps hadn't leaked, but it must have happened occasionally. Possibly best defence is caps with higher temperature rating. I would guess these would have some sort of decent design of seal on the caps.
 
I really don't think with a modern design capacitor from a well respected manufacturer like Vishay, that orientation is a factor in terms of reliability at all. Just mount them whichever way up is most convenient for the wiring. Fit and forget ;)
 
Good caps these days tend to have a much longer expected life. That rating is at their temperature rating, which for some is 105C! They will of course last a lot lot longer running at say 40C.

The caps of course have lower impedance and can handle much more current - hence an easy upgrade in a lot of cases.

See if you can find the pdf spec to get an idea but I'd imagine there is little to be concerned about for a long time. You might even find something about the originals somewhere.

I just did the main caps in my CD100 today actually, after 30 years the originals still measured fine (well in terms of uf - perhaps not impedance) but I didn't want to leave them longer.
 
I really don't think with a modern design capacitor from a well respected manufacturer like Vishay, that orientation is a factor in terms of reliability at all. Just mount them whichever way up is most convenient for the wiring. Fit and forget ;)

Vishay is one of the biggest manufacturers and has bought out many other companies in the last ten years... I can't see that they deserve any special "cachet" over manufacturers.. just saying..
 
Curiosity got the better of me and I've flung the bigger 4700uf speaker coupling caps in. I left the PSU caps be as that looked way more fiddly what with having to combine the wires from the two paralleled 2200 caps to the new single 4700, and the Vishays have tiny pins. I looked at it long and hard and came to the conclusion there was a chance I'd screw it up! I can solder simple things very neatly but I'm no electronics professional. The two 2200 PSU caps shouldn't need doing for a long while anyway as they've only been in there 4-5 years. I can't imagine there's that much difference going from 4400uf to 4700 so I can't see it being a huge upgrade. I stuck the output caps in face down, I can't see voiding being an issue as that's the way caps are mounted in most things these days and I don't drive the thing hard enough to heat it up at all. These caps never get beyond ambient room temperature.

I've not had a chance to listen to it yet as it's too late. Hopefully what folk say about improving the bass response is true...
 
When I doubled the output capacitor capacitance, had the impression that bass was better with some speakers.

However, if using a single pair of ESL 57's, apparently the best is to leave output capacitor at standard values.

I expect that you have already seen this, but if not:

http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/57and303/interact.html

It's quite likely that I've linked to this before, but can't remember.
 


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