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Naim SBL

bob atherton said:
I had no idea that it was possible to start a Foam Wars, but I guess that's our passion for the hobby. Apologies for opening up a can of .... ermmm..... foam...!

I just found these but they don't appear to have any cut out 'scoops' at the rear. I would have thought the cut outs at the rear were essential.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=221343981886


Any ideas on what black marker to touch up the edges with? I might just try a non waterproof one so at least I can wipe it off if it's not looking so good.
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The seller on eBay does not list all the time, just keep a look out, they are very good for the money. Don't worry about starting a foam war, it will be woofer wars next week, just get yourself a tin hat!
 
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chord said:
I paid 40 GBP too.
And please belive me: it's a perfect solution; cutouts are OK; internal cutouts are OK; cone distant is the same in mms; foam is 'audiophile standard' quality too; please belive me TomTom use exactly the same materia; not needed any velcro; sticks better than the oldish original; looks excellent.

Before:

grilles_02_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg


After:

grilles_01_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg


And the most important:
Sound is very-very good; no real difference; maybe more musical a little bit.

But I won't disturb you or anybody to spend some extra hundreds in totally vain.
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Nice, but I can see straight away that the beveled edges on those replicas is not the same as on the originals or the TomToms..
 
positive_energy said:
Say no more... This is why its so "cheap":

$(KGrHqVHJFIFC-8UmCImBQ0M+j4OCQ~~60_12.JPG
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I wouldn't say £40 for four pieces of foam was cheap, the scoops do the job which is required for the job. I know what these materials cost, I work in the industry.
Only a fool would pay £180, but hey it's your money, your choice. The bevels on my foams are the same as my originals.
 
positive_energy said:
They look like someone has had a go with a stanley knife! Seriously, they look nothing like the originals.
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Personally I view mine and use them from the other side, I have not seen anyone that puts them on and views them from the reverse, therefore your comment Is irrelevant to me.
 
Please any idea about that small alu pads.
I know well that they are perfect correction for the unwanted/very small discrepancies of internal spikes. But each materials colouring the sound especially in transitions. And alu pads are floating a bit; not fixed in their center at all. Sound is very OK - but this coulping solution is ready for some tweaks.

What do you think?
 
chord said:
Please any idea about that small alu pads.
I know well that they are perfect correction for the unwanted/very small discrepancies of internal spikes. But each materials colouring the sound especially in transitions. And alu pads are floating a bit; not fixed in their center at all. Sound is very OK - but this coulping solution is ready for some tweaks.

What do you think?
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It's possible the aluminum pads affect sound quality as they are coupling interfaces between two resonating cabinets, however, they perform a difficult job extremely well. Anything less flexible and penetrable would require precision machining each replacement piece to extreme tolerances unique for each gap. Do you really want to go to this trouble and expense for what may be minimal or no improvement in sound quality?

Before you answer, remember, "close" is not good enough, perfection is mandatory. Any movement between the bass driver cabinet and the lower bass bin will degrade sound quality.
 
amazement said:
Personally I view mine and use them from the other side, I have not seen anyone that puts them on and views them from the reverse, therefore your comment Is irrelevant to me.
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Yes, but if you are going to compare the differences in price then you need to compare like for like. Anyone can cut a bit of foam like yours have been. In fact I am sure I could do better for even less than you have paid.

But to get something equal to the originals, as TomTom have done, obviously costs more to achieve, and is not so easy as it seems.
 
The whole problem of tolerances between 4 pads /spikes would be a non issue using 3 spikes. It would've meant a ground up design change and probably a different set of
compromises.

Fwiw I think the ally pads are a simple remidy for the problem, just the reduculous prices for gaskets kits. With care the pads can be removed and repositioned for a fresh spike.

If anybody's got detailed pics is Sl2's I think they'd be interesting ?
 
dave said:
It's possible the aluminum pads affect sound quality as they are coupling interfaces between two resonating cabinets, however, they perform a difficult job extremely well. Anything less flexible and penetrable would require precision machining each replacement piece to extreme tolerances unique for each gap. Do you really want to go to this trouble and expense for what may be minimal or no improvement in sound quality?

Before you answer, remember, "close" is not good enough, perfection is mandatory. Any movement between the bass driver cabinet and the lower bass bin will degrade sound quality.
Click to expand...

Please remember usual (not Naim) spiked box-stand coulping with usual four spikes; would you take small alu pads between box and stand's spike to avoid unwanted gaps?
I think no, because sound will be degraded.

And one more thing.
You build SBL perfect way; silicon is airclosing only and spikes keep the mid box. But silicon gel after few hours is quite hard; just try it; not very elastic; silicon pad will keep midbox really because alu is so soft that vibration will drill alupads; you will find holes always on pads; spikes are sitting on the air; silicon keeps the whole story.
So the main tuning would be following: find a materia what airclosing and very-very soft and really flexible after weeks or years.
Do you remember that disgusting toy for children what seems a gel? Something like that.
 
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