Stylus cleaning

[Eyebroughty]

I’ve used the AT vibrating cleaner and its fluid since the early ‘80s. It works superbly well. Don’t go near the Linn sandpaper, that was only ever a scam to sell new styli sooner than otherwise IMHO!

I think Dynavector give out a green sand paper with their cartridges, but I could be wrong.

I use the AT vibrating cleaner, excellent device.

 

[wylton]

I think Dynavector give out a green sand paper with their cartridges...

They do indeed.

 

[Yank]

I have several examples of the brush on the right. Haven't bought the chemicals in decades, but I use the stiff brush before every album side.

 

[poco a poco]

Yes, that is a knock-off of the brush supplied by Ortofon* with many of their cartridges for decades; also sold by many others including Pro-Ject under the IKEA-like name Clean-It. It is composed of bristles, however, they are so fine and packed so tightly that they appear as a pad. These are the best cheap manual brush short of the one that came with Stylast. I also have a couple of Discwasher SC-2 brushes; advantages include a much larger 'pad' of bristles and a handy convex mirror on the flip side. The actual moulded brush handle retracts into a rectangular walnut sleeve, the size of which makes it quite easy to handle.

I have the SC-2 that I have had for years as well as a couple of Ortofon's and the Last. I still have some SC-2 fluid left as well, but usually use it without. I have never followed those instructions though as to me it seems much more risky to have a 'floating' tonearm under the influence of my shaky hand and a stiff bristled brush. I use it with the arm clamped and very carefully pull from rear to front.

 

[poco a poco]

I have several examples of the brush on the right. Haven't bought the chemicals in decades, but I use the stiff brush before every album side.

I still have some fluid, it seems to Last for years. I did use it regularly for a very long time as it seemed to work and give some sound improvement, but In the end I am pretty certain that it was this fluid migrating up the cantilever that help to gum up the inside of my Koetsu Rosewood an I have not used it since. I also just use the brush.

 

[deebster]

Yes, that is a knock-off of the brush supplied by Ortofon* with many of their cartridges for decades

Ah, cheers, so that's how I got one

Had an AT vibrator thing but gave it to mate years ago, then he gave me the Audiolab 8000a I'd been looking after for him for years. Who's gonna be first to say I lost out?

 

[Craig B]

I have the SC-2 that I have had for years as well as a couple of Ortofon's and the Last. I still have some SC-2 fluid left as well, but usually use it without. I have never followed those instructions though as to me it seems much more risky to have a 'floating' tonearm under the influence of my shaky hand and a stiff bristled brush. I use it with the arm clamped and very carefully pull from rear to front.

Your shaky hand is the exact reason why the tonearm should not be locked. It needs to be able to 'get away' if you accidentally jar it hard enough. Also, it isn't really 'floating' if resting upon either of the cueing platform or arm rest at full downforce.

With classic SME, for example, it is best to make sure to have the arm out of the captive 'C' shaped arm rest with the cueing lift in the up position.

 

[JustJohn]

I use the brush on a routine basis, and that putty stuff on special occasions.

 

[Craig B]

Christmas?

Easter?

Ah! Bar Mitzvah!

But will the putty really banish the creature from the black groove?

Or, your battered and fried, Southern styli...

 

[Dowser]

Loupe, tweezers, stiff brush, bit of cleaning fluid & aggression...carefully applied Brought back a worn Asaka I bought for £40 with intention of retipping, but then I looked at it with a loupe and realized it was covered in baked on gunk.

 

[poco a poco]

Your shaky hand is the exact reason why the tonearm should not be locked. It needs to be able to 'get away' if you accidentally jar it hard enough. Also, it isn't really 'floating' if resting upon either of the cueing platform or arm rest at full downforce.

With classic SME, for example, it is best to make sure to have the arm out of the captive 'C' shaped arm rest with the cueing lift in the up position.

Perhaps I was exaggerating a bit with shaky hands. One of the my arms is an SME V with C arm rest, but if it is out of the arm rest, but on the cueing platform in the raised position then it is not just the tracking force bearing on the stylus, but the friction and and resistance of the platform as well. Maybe that is the intention of the instructions, but not the wording. Still I have been doing it this way for years with many cartridges and different brushes without a problem. I think whatever method you use accidents can happen, it's just a matter of taking maximum care and always only going from exactly rear to front when pulling the brush.

 

[Nick Urfe]

Why did AT stop making the 637 vibrating cleaner so many years ago? I understood they found long-term problems from using it. Otherwise wouldn't they still be making it?

 

[Craig B]

I recall being told that audio-technica ceased production of AT637 because the original tooling broke. I also recall hearing a similar excuse from Shure when I inquired about V15 replacement styli.

The industry was well into CD sales by then, so the truth may be closer to the fact that sales of such relatively expensive record accessories were likely well along on the wrong side of the marketing bell curve.

Regardless, I'm thankful that they stuck in there with phono cartridge production (knock on plinth).

A-T did manage a few CD cleaning tools, including an 'electronic' one, the AT6050 'CD Auto Cleanica', looking for all the world like the bastard offspring of AT727 Soundburger and Technics SL-5.

Cute little bugger, innit...

 

[rough edges]

I recall being told that audio-technica ceased production of AT-637 because the original tooling broke. I also recall hearing a similar excuse from Shure when I inquired about V15 replacement styli.

The industry was well into CD sales by then, so the truth may be closer to the fact that sales of such relatively expensive record accessories were likely well along on the wrong side of the marketing bell curve.

Regardless, I'm thankful that they stuck in there with phono cartridge production (knock on plinth).

A-T did manage a few CD cleaning tools, including an 'electronic' one, the AT6050 'CD Auto Cleanica', looking for all the world like the bastard child of a Technics SL-5 and a Sony CD Walkman.

Cute little bugger, innit...

That's quite the name they picked for that contraption. Truly an example of outstanding marketing acumen.

 

[Craig B]

Of all the Japanese majors, Matshushita/Panasonic were the undisputed kings of making up names for their innovations, features, and bits and pieces. I still have a copy of the little black book of Matshushitaisms that was presented to all dealers and their staff such that we would be well versed in explaining what everything meant to the punter.

We used to have great fun making our own up; not that you'd ever run out of real ones, mind. Happy days!

 

[John]

I lower the stylus onto the Rodico putty held with my left hand. Don’t think I would do that with any other turntable besides an LP12 as the suspension has some give which helps prevent accidental damage to the cartridge. Been using this method for close to two decades every 3 to 4 record sides.

 

[poco a poco]

One thing I forgot to add in my posts above about stylus cleaning with a brush is that I always do it with the volume control in its normal advanced position. It then becomes apparent very quickly if you are being too vigorous or starting to deflect the cantilever too much.

 

[myles]

One thing I forgot to add in my posts above about stylus cleaning with a brush is that I always do it with the volume control in its normal advanced position. It then becomes apparent very quickly if you are being too vigorous or starting to deflect the cantilever too much.

Good tip, that.

 

[dektop1]

What do folks use?

I have a brush and a bottle of audio technica stylus cleaning fluid, but they're not great with stubborn gunk and the manual for my new cart explicitly states not to use fluids.

Anyone have any other recommendations?

cheers

...during playback the entire cartridge is finely sprayed with 'material' coming out of the groove - so cleaning the stylus is only part of cartridge maintenance. The cantilever is very much in the firing line and can become extremely dirty and result in severely degraded SQ. It can be cleaned in situ (no need to remove from arm) but you'll need a lens for viewing (a 50mm from a reflex camera will do) and a small penlight torch on the platter for lighting (back lighting is good). Use a medium soft brush on the cantilever stroking towards the stylus. Expect 'hundreds' of strokes if a lot of material has been allowed to accumulate.

 

[Arkless Electronics]

Yes, that is a knock-off of the brush supplied by Ortofon* with many of their cartridges for decades; also sold by many others including Pro-Ject under the IKEA-like name Clean-It. It is composed of bristles, however, they are so fine and packed so tightly that they appear as a pad. These are the best cheap manual brush, short of the one that came with Stylast. I also have a couple of Discwasher SC-2 brushes; advantages include a much larger 'pad' of bristles and a handy convex mirror on the flip side. The actual moulded brush handle retracts into a rectangular walnut sleeve, the size of which makes it quite easy to handle.

Despite all the manual brushes I've collected, I most often use an AT-637 vibrating cleaner dry, employing the same cleaning method as for manual brushes. One thing I've learned is that Elon Musk has nothing on audio-techinica when it comes to getting the most out of batteries!

* Funny thing, Ortofon's offering now appears to be the same knock-off of their own original! The clue is in the detail of the plastic moulding.

Hmm.... I have several brushes that came with Ortofon carts over decades but I've never seen one of those supplied with an Ortofon... It could be in more recent decades of course! I'm talking 70's and 80's mainly but into the mid 90's.