I'm going to try building a pair of these MUN17-3W (troelsgravesen.dk)
Wish me luck...
Spend to date:
Speaker Plans : £90
Wish me luck...
Spend to date:
Speaker Plans : £90
Speakers: MUN17-3W
- Thread starter fraser.
- Start date
Yea good luck, I built a pair of one of his designs a while back he knows a thing or 2 as I still use them every day.
I think someone over on DIYaudio built a pair ,think it was Alex, worth asking him for his experience with them.
Those are great drivers so it should sound outstanding.
I think someone over on DIYaudio built a pair ,think it was Alex, worth asking him for his experience with them.
Those are great drivers so it should sound outstanding.
Thanks gents. I've seen a few threads and photos from Alex and they do look outstanding... If he pops in here I'd be happy to learn from his experience. The only alien thing about these speakers to me will be the electronics / crossover side of it. Once I get into the build I'll need to make a decision on whether to go with the passive design for mids and highs, or try a fully active design. The passive crossovers look a costly proposition, particularly if going for high quality components.
These drivers aren't cheap are they... I've bought the woofers first as they seem hardest to come by but the others will have to wait! Falcon have 10% off orders until the end of the month so I've opted for them.
Spend to date:
Speaker Plans : £90
Woofers: £1,147.90
Total: £1,237.90
These drivers aren't cheap are they... I've bought the woofers first as they seem hardest to come by but the others will have to wait! Falcon have 10% off orders until the end of the month so I've opted for them.
Spend to date:
Speaker Plans : £90
Woofers: £1,147.90
Total: £1,237.90
I built a version of the Elam flex 3 way with a different bass unit powered by a Hypex plate amp.
I had some 10" scanspeak bass units so used the Hypex for filter and power it also allows some room
correction as well.Mid and treble just Troels passive crossovers.
Interesting - how did you find the hypex side of things? I had another look at the options today and am now a bit confused... It looks the plate amps are split between 1/2/3 way and then differentiated by power. But I'm not sure which output I actually need... Unsure how difficult it would be to integrated an active crossover across the kids and highs... and unsure if powering a passive crossover with a hypex module makes any sense.
Hoopsontoast
pfm Member
I've a pair of Hypex Fusion FA123 plate amps, really useful to have both DSP and Amps in one compact package. Basically the ones with a 1## at the start of the model number use the 75w/125w module, the 2## have 125w/250w module and 5## have 250w/500w module. The last number is the amount of amps, so ##1 is a Mono Amplifier for say a Subwoofer, ##2 is for 2-way speakers or ##3 for 3-way speakers.
The advantage with the 3-way version and ging full-active is you can do all the crossovers & tweaking with DSP and change on the fly, as well as in room correction if required. The downside is there is so much fiddle room is you might always be tweaking.
Looks a great project though!
The software's a bit clunky but works, I would only use the single amp version for bass it works great here and you can do
Some room correction if you have a problem.I have a irritating 53hz mode that I could not solve until I put a notch filter
In with the Hypex.The class D amps are good for doing the bass lifting but suck the life out of the music when used full range so I would keep the passive filters for mid\treble.Connect the Hypex via the speaker output on your amp.
Another important point is it you have not done your own speaker designs before then getting the all important mid
Treble crossover point correct via a Hypex 3 way is not easy.you will find it difficult to get near to someone like Troels that has done literally hundreds of designs.
The bass end crossover is much less of an issue and you can get reasonable results quite easily.
I would just follow Troels design as he has presented it you won't be disappointed especially with those drivers.
Treble crossover point correct via a Hypex 3 way is not easy.you will find it difficult to get near to someone like Troels that has done literally hundreds of designs.
The bass end crossover is much less of an issue and you can get reasonable results quite easily.
I would just follow Troels design as he has presented it you won't be disappointed especially with those drivers.
Thanks for that - very useful. I think I'll ask troels his view on replicating the passive crossover with a fully active design and using one of the bigger hypex options (503?) to run the whole thing. I imagine his answer will be just follow the design!
I think I read somewhere he viewed it as one of the 'best' speakers he had done at to that point so the crossover can't be doing too much damage...
I think I read somewhere he viewed it as one of the 'best' speakers he had done at to that point so the crossover can't be doing too much damage...
One of the cars was beginning to fail in its old age, so I took the plunge today and flogged it to a local garage. With the proceeds... more drivers!
The scottish government are currently splashing more money around on anything 'green' and offering interest free loans for used EV cars, so i've taken advantage of this for the replacement. According to my man maths if I charge the car solely at work for the next 300 years and it never breaks down it will just about offset the cost of this build
Spend to date:
Speaker Plans : £90
Woofers: £1,147.90
Mids: £381.71
Tweeters: £984.35
Total: £2,603.96
The tweeters were a bit of an eye opener... I'm hoping the grill is strong enough to withstand the weekly fingering by my youngest.
I've been thinking a little more about the build itself and think I might try something elaborate with the baffle... perhaps using slate or granite. Has anyone had experience with doing this or using something similar? I do have some valchromat lying un-used as a more conventional option.
The scottish government are currently splashing more money around on anything 'green' and offering interest free loans for used EV cars, so i've taken advantage of this for the replacement. According to my man maths if I charge the car solely at work for the next 300 years and it never breaks down it will just about offset the cost of this build
Spend to date:
Speaker Plans : £90
Woofers: £1,147.90
Mids: £381.71
Tweeters: £984.35
Total: £2,603.96
The tweeters were a bit of an eye opener... I'm hoping the grill is strong enough to withstand the weekly fingering by my youngest.
I've been thinking a little more about the build itself and think I might try something elaborate with the baffle... perhaps using slate or granite. Has anyone had experience with doing this or using something similar? I do have some valchromat lying un-used as a more conventional option.
jtgofish
pfm Member
I have been very tempted to build the Fusion 3WC which is quite similar and has replaced the MUN 17.
These are not cheap projects and require a fair bit of faith.These are using very high end components but really good speakers are often more than the sum of their parts.
You are getting a Wilson type of speaker for somewhere between 20% and 10% of the cost however.
These are not cheap projects and require a fair bit of faith.These are using very high end components but really good speakers are often more than the sum of their parts.
You are getting a Wilson type of speaker for somewhere between 20% and 10% of the cost however.
It's interesting isn't it. To me one of the main attractions of this design, and other similar designs, is that the performance floor should be high solely on the basis of the driver quality. Conversely, I've owned some very enjoyable speakers previously but they've generally been 'cheap' or at least affordable used purchases.
I quite often see comments on this and other forums about the developments in drive units in the past 30 years or so, and am very keen to see if this translates into better sound.
I quite often see comments on this and other forums about the developments in drive units in the past 30 years or so, and am very keen to see if this translates into better sound.