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Sharpening knives

I have a great ex army carving knife about 18" long with ebony scales which holds a razor edge, but which needed regrinding. I thought I'd try the peening jig that came with my scythe before sending the knife off. This was a massive success with no metal removed at all. The jig just nips the metal and flattens the angle you are trying to sharpen.

https://scythecymru.co.uk/product/peening-jig/
 
Not everyone has a denglestock but it works in a similar way to a smooth steel.

Pete
 
I do my own Knives,Chisels and Plane Blades and also other peoples including a friend who is a carpenter of many years standing who is unable to achieve the same result as I can. I normally start with setting the first bevel using a standard electric grinder with a Norton green grit wheel for anything that is tungsten carbide and Norton silicon carbide grit wheel for Steel. Both obtained legitimately when I worked at Rolls Royce, as the wheels originally supplied with electric grinding machines are generally rubbish. Then a slow speed "wide" wet wheel to obtain the Hollow ground area.
This is then followed by Course, Medium and "Worn out" Fine diamond slips to form the cutting edge and then a hard Arkansas bench stone to start the polished edge and finally to finish the polished edge stropped with a leather strop loaded with Brasso metal Polish.
The final test to make sure the correct level of "sharpness" has been obtained, is to use them to shave off some of the hairs on my arm if they fail to do so, it's start again. So unusually I have one very hairy arm and the other generally is a bald forearm.:) it takes time but I haven't so far had any complaints.
oldie
 
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