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QUDOS - the brilliant new amplifier boards from Avondale

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divedeepdog said:
There’s one on eBay
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=333831905014

Before the Ncc300, Les was building HCR+220 into 180 cases, the ‘Voyager class’ uses the HCR on the front end, unregulated on the other bit.

Unless you’ve skills to build them all, try not to get too hung up, they’re fantastic amps.

*Hcr+200Voyager owner who’s drools over 300;-)
Click to expand...

That one of is in Canada...mine has NCC220 boards but I was considering whether or not to get the HCR200 boards too.
 
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Just wait until the New Year (I know... seems an age doesn't it) - and talk to Les. He will advise on the best route to take - I would be tempted to stick with Avondale modules rather than any Witch Hat equivalent, as should you ever want to sell, a fully Avondaled unit will probably be more attractive than a piecemeal approach.

I would think if you are looking to get someone to install them then Les might be the best option (although I suspect he may have a waiting list) - otherwise if Witch Hat prefer to use their own stuff then perhaps a nearby pink fisher might be able to help?
 
RichardH said:
Just wait until the New Year (I know... seems an age doesn't it) - and talk to Les. He will advise on the best route to take - I would be tempted to stick with Avondale modules rather than any Witch Hat equivalent, as should you ever want to sell, a fully Avondaled unit will probably be more attractive than a piecemeal approach.

I would think if you are looking to get someone to install them then Les might be the best option (although I suspect he may have a waiting list) - otherwise if Witch Hat prefer to use their own stuff then perhaps a nearby pink fisher might be able to help?
Click to expand...

Good advice mon ami :)

I will speak to Les in the new year and see what he says.

I don't think there are any local pfm members who can help as I have asked for help before with no reply.

Have a good day. :)
 
hello i have a problem with my ncc200
I start the system correctly, the bias is set to 38mA
voltage between tp3 and tp4 correct
After connecting the speakers, the 100ohm resistors next to the mj15003 transistor burn after a few seconds.
what could be the reason?
ps. I don't know how to insert a picture
 
Hello community,
My HCR200 + Qudos are still a project under construction and adjustments (for too long) ... Although I love DIY, I recognize that I don't have the technical skills to do so. Anyway!
That's why I ask for help. I've used Les in the past but now he's very busy ...
Today in the assembly of a Temperature Switch Thermostat Thermal at 40c that controls the cooling, I lost one of the amplifiers. After assembled, he called and played music but gave a small "bump" in the columns. I disassembled and saw nothing burned and all the calls were ok! Even because I didn't change anything there!
The HCR200 is ok! But Qudos gives a signal pass between positive, negative and O / P.

What can it be? Any idea?
 
Arkless Electronics said:
.....Basil!!
Click to expand...

Not very helpful there at all....best to delete this one if you can.

@Golfinho Sorry I'm not very good at this stuff but when you say:

After assembled, he called and played music but gave a small "bump" in the columns
So there's now no output to the speakers at all?

The HCR200 is ok! But Qudos gives a signal pass between positive, negative and O / P.
So you have no signal or voltage rails? have you traced them through?

If the only change you've made is the thermal sensor then that would be my first place to look.

Sorry not much help, hopefully someone with better knowledge of the NCC220s will be along soon and will probably know where to probe first.
 
rafal.kar said:
hello i have a problem with my ncc200
I start the system correctly, the bias is set to 38mA
voltage between tp3 and tp4 correct
After connecting the speakers, the 100ohm resistors next to the mj15003 transistor burn after a few seconds.
what could be the reason?
ps. I don't know how to insert a picture
Click to expand...

HI
Have you tested the 1N4148 & 1N4004 diodes and are they the correct orientation
Have you tested your Driver and output transistors
Without speakers attached what is the DC offset ?
Alan
 
@JimmyB

Sim, confirmo, não tenho saída para os alto-falantes.
Sim, tenho coeficientes corretas no HCR200, mas não consigo medir (por precaução) no Qudos porque ele está em curto "+" / "-" e "O / P".
O sensor térmico serve apenas para controlar o ventoinha de resfriamento de 40c, mas que removi quando estava "tentando" descobrir o que aconteceu.
Coloquei um vídeo no drive para entender melhor o que falo

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GuLpg0MpWsfNl9_7y9QLIhGQ8-oBNZhU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XufzP724i6ZeNbkGh07H_2i3A9JJOM8P/view?usp=sharing
 
+1 time,

Take advantage of the @337alant comment, I was looking at the diagram and making measurements and comparisons with the other Qudos board, I noticed that the MJE15031 and MJ15004 looked ok. I will try to take a 1N4004 diode and check if it is shorted.
 
Glad Alan came along with words of wisdom! Hope you get along well with this, let us know how it goes.

All the best,

James
 
Unfortunately, I couldn't identify the problem ...
Anyone out there with knowledge and availability who wants to take a look at an attempted repair?
Grateful!
 
Hi guys
I have been browsing this thread for a long time and decided to build the QUDOS NCC220 myself.
Everything is clear to me, but I have a few questions about the value of the capacitors, different values are in the diagrams and different on the PCBs that I saw in PFM.
C2, C4, C12 by design is 100nF, finished boards are 220nF
but for the capacitor C9, C10 according to the design is 100nF and on the finished boards it is different values of 4.7nF and 15nF
Which values are ultimately the best, does this affect the sound?
if you can, explain to me which way to choose :) :) :)
 
rafal.kar said:
Hi guys
I have been browsing this thread for a long time and decided to build the QUDOS NCC220 myself.
Everything is clear to me, but I have a few questions about the value of the capacitors, different values are in the diagrams and different on the PCBs that I saw in PFM.
C2, C4, C12 by design is 100nF, finished boards are 220nF
but for the capacitor C9, C10 according to the design is 100nF and on the finished boards it is different values of 4.7nF and 15nF
Which values are ultimately the best, does this affect the sound?
if you can, explain to me which way to choose :) :) :)
Click to expand...

C2 and C4 are simply high frequency bypass caps for the 100uF bulk rail de-coupling caps. 100nF is kind of a "standard" value for these but 220nF will be fine and I notice my boards have these too. These simply filter HF noise of the supply rails so won't make much difference.
Interestingly I can't actually find C12 in the schematic but it seems to sit across the 68uF cap that sits across TR5. Again its a HF bypass cap for the 68uF - standard practice to fit a low value bypass cap across a large value bulk cap to improve HF performance of the cap - again the value won't make much difference.
On the latest Qudos boards C9 and C10 aren't fitted and neither are the 27R resistors that form that filter network. The base resistors are 10R rather than 15R on the latest versions. The older NCC200 (not Qudos) had much higher resistor values here and the caps were 470pF, I don't know where you saw 4.7nF and 15nF?
 
muchtoofast said:
Just bought the NC220s, great bloke is Les. :) Thought I'd try them with a hackernap transformer from Cantebury Windings and minicap 6s in the middle. Sold a 202/200/Hicap to do it. I've got a Uniti Atom as a source... anyone else think I'm nuts at this point? :)
Click to expand...

No, not nuts at all. A very good move I would say. For me Avondale makes better music than Naim every time :)
 
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