advertisement


My first ever (speaker) build

C

chris turner

pfm Member
I've been looking at a diy speaker project for a year or two but not pulled the plug previously when I was considering a CSS kit, Falcon ls3/5a alternative and then a Jeff Bagby design (spirit wind). I'm not a craftsman, nor do I have any experience of electronics so I've found the prospect a little daunting until now but have finally bitten the bullet and started my first diy audio project

I recently got into valves, for the first time in almost 40 years of hifi, with a Leben amplifier and audio note kit DAC (professionally built, not by me......) and was seriously considering a pair of Devore obaby speakers however, at a little over £6k plus almost another £1000 for stands they'll be out of reach for a few years. I think my existing Linn Kan, whilst lovely, aren't letting the electronics do their thing so the idea of a diy build came up again

Searching the obvious terms on google threw up a SEAS A26 kit but I don't like the looks of these so this led to the discovery of a couple of audio diy sites/blogs and got me thinking a little more about the prospect of building something resembling another, slightly more serious Devore speaker, the O/96 orangoutang. Before I go any further, I'm not kidding myself that I can make something as good as these guys, either aesthetically or sonically but if I can get anywhere close on a budget I'll be more than happy

I've now figured that the SEAS A26RE4 H1411-08 woofer is an off the shelf variant of the custom made version used in the Devore and that the Morel CAT378 is a good basis for the tweeter, so these are ordered and on their way

Dimensionally I've mirrored the Devore so the finished speakers will be 725mm tall (plus stands) 460mm wide and 310mm deep, I'm making the cabinets from 18mm birch ply rather than MDF as I believe this is nearer the original specs and I don't fancy machining MDF without any means to control the amount of dust that this would generate, this was cut to size at my local diy store to save me the impossible task of 1) getting the dims spot on and 2) managing to cut a straight line.......

.....though in the future I'm going to be learning how to dowel and then rout what will hopefully be perfectly round holes in the baffle for these drivers. I'll also figure out how to apply veneers as I'm currently thinking black ash for the back and sides with something a little more striking on the front baffle, though this isn't finalised at the moment

The other thing that this choice of drivers allows me to have is an incredibly simple crossover, this should be helpful for 2 reasons. The first is that I've never soldered before and until I started to research these things further I had no idea about crossover design. The second advantage this simple design gives me is that because I only have to buy 1 capacitor and 2 resistors for each crossover the specifications of these can be a little more upmarket for the given budget. Once the cabinets are built I'll be coming back to this

I was planning on keeping a running total of the cost of the project for my own interest, but would be happy to share with anyone who may be interested in this, as well as sharing pictures of my efforts with the proviso I can't promise they're going to be pretty, for constructive criticism from anyone with more experience pf this kind of thing that may prove helpful in my efforts

I'm just starting this, so here's the first stage, panels all cut for the cabinets and building starting this morning......

3xSxLPB.jpg


hijVXtj.jpg
 
Good luck with the project. I have always wanted to make a diy speaker. The cabinet build has always stopped me. Please keep this thread updated would love to see how the project goes.
 
chris turner said:
I've been looking at a diy speaker project for a year or two but not pulled the plug previously when I was considering a CSS kit, Falcon ls3/5a alternative and then a Jeff Bagby design (spirit wind). I'm not a craftsman, nor do I have any experience of electronics so I've found the prospect a little daunting until now but have finally bitten the bullet and started my first diy audio project

I recently got into valves, for the first time in almost 40 years of hifi, with a Leben amplifier and audio note kit DAC (professionally built, not by me......) and was seriously considering a pair of Devore obaby speakers however, at a little over £6k plus almost another £1000 for stands they'll be out of reach for a few years. I think my existing Linn Kan, whilst lovely, aren't letting the electronics do their thing so the idea of a diy build came up again

Searching the obvious terms on google threw up a SEAS A26 kit but I don't like the looks of these so this led to the discovery of a couple of audio diy sites/blogs and got me thinking a little more about the prospect of building something resembling another, slightly more serious Devore speaker, the O/96 orangoutang. Before I go any further, I'm not kidding myself that I can make something as good as these guys, either aesthetically or sonically but if I can get anywhere close on a budget I'll be more than happy

I've now figured that the SEAS A26RE4 H1411-08 woofer is an off the shelf variant of the custom made version used in the Devore and that the Morel CAT378 is a good basis for the tweeter, so these are ordered and on their way

Dimensionally I've mirrored the Devore so the finished speakers will be 725mm tall (plus stands) 460mm wide and 310mm deep, I'm making the cabinets from 18mm birch ply rather than MDF as I believe this is nearer the original specs and I don't fancy machining MDF without any means to control the amount of dust that this would generate, this was cut to size at my local diy store to save me the impossible task of 1) getting the dims spot on and 2) managing to cut a straight line.......

.....though in the future I'm going to be learning how to dowel and then rout what will hopefully be perfectly round holes in the baffle for these drivers. I'll also figure out how to apply veneers as I'm currently thinking black ash for the back and sides with something a little more striking on the front baffle, though this isn't finalised at the moment

The other thing that this choice of drivers allows me to have is an incredibly simple crossover, this should be helpful for 2 reasons. The first is that I've never soldered before and until I started to research these things further I had no idea about crossover design. The second advantage this simple design gives me is that because I only have to buy 1 capacitor and 2 resistors for each crossover the specifications of these can be a little more upmarket for the given budget. Once the cabinets are built I'll be coming back to this

I was planning on keeping a running total of the cost of the project for my own interest, but would be happy to share with anyone who may be interested in this, as well as sharing pictures of my efforts with the proviso I can't promise they're going to be pretty, for constructive criticism from anyone with more experience pf this kind of thing that may prove helpful in my efforts

I'm just starting this, so here's the first stage, panels all cut for the cabinets and building starting this morning......

3xSxLPB.jpg


hijVXtj.jpg
Click to expand...
Seeing as the Seas A26 can get away with a super simple crossover, I think you may well get away with this. Still, it would be interesting to see measurements, on and off-axis.

Good luck!
 
In your first photo there is a bottle of Gorilla glue, unless I'm mistaken. I tried using this once and I remember that, at least in my hands, it behaved oddly. Expanding and or contracting, IIRC. I may be mistaken, but wonder if a standard PVA(?) adhesive, with a few thin nails to hold parts together as they dry, might not be better? I also used a large set-square, maybe 12 inches by 16, to make sure it was all at 90 degrees. But, as I say, I may be wrong.
 
PaulMB said:
In your first photo there is a bottle of Gorilla glue, unless I'm mistaken. I tried using this once and I remember that, at least in my hands, it behaved oddly. Expanding and or contracting, IIRC. I may be mistaken, but wonder if a standard PVA(?) adhesive, with a few thin nails to hold parts together as they dry, might not be better? I also used a large set-square, maybe 12 inches by 16, to make sure it was all at 90 degrees. But, as I say, I may be wrong.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, at the moment I'll take any input available

I spent the afternoon laying the boards out for the best orientation and alignment, its not perfect but close enough to make me think that I can tweak to fit, I've got PVA and may use in reference to the gorilla glue so thanks again
 
PaulMB said:
In your first photo there is a bottle of Gorilla glue, unless I'm mistaken. I tried using this once and I remember that, at least in my hands, it behaved oddly. Expanding and or contracting, IIRC. I may be mistaken, but wonder if a standard PVA(?) adhesive, with a few thin nails to hold parts together as they dry, might not be better? I also used a large set-square, maybe 12 inches by 16, to make sure it was all at 90 degrees. But, as I say, I may be wrong.
Click to expand...
I found the "gap filling" qualities of Gorilla glue actually a pain compared to some Evo-Stik PVA glue.

My vote is for standard PVA, with or without nails, and clamps.
 
I think there's a Gorilla Glue branded wood glue (non-expanding) these days, as well as the original (expanding) one. Maybe that's what you have?
 
Bookmarked :)

There's something genuinely exciting about those very first stages of a build! My fiance would disagree mind.
 
fraser. said:
Bookmarked :)

There's something genuinely exciting about those very first stages of a build! My fiance would disagree mind.
Click to expand...
I've found the research and anticipation of the project to be enjoyable so maybe you're right and I'm heading for the more challenging times of the build itself, only time will tell, but my other half will happily point out any stumbles along the way :eek:)
 
Nice project! For gluing up something that big, a set of band clamps might be money well spent. I’ve made some small ply shelving units and always wanted more clamps than I had. Can you borrow a plate joiner? Handy for getting everything together as a dry fit and makes it rock sold when glued together.
 
irb said:
I think there's a Gorilla Glue branded wood glue (non-expanding) these days, as well as the original (expanding) one. Maybe that's what you have?
Click to expand...
Ah, is there now....

The one I used was the type were one surface, including MDF, had to be wet and the other surface covered in glue.

And it was a bugger to get off my hands...
 
chiily said:
Ah, is there now....

The one I used was the type were one surface, including MDF, had to be wet and the other surface covered in glue.

And it was a bugger to get off my hands...
Click to expand...
That would be the original polyurethane Gorilla glue. Horrid stuff to use, but super-strong bonds.
 
chris turner said:
Thanks for that, at the moment I'll take any input available
Click to expand...
First of all, can I applaud your enthusiasm and cracking into your first DIY build. I personally started that journey of mine over 20 years ago when I wanted a pair of top-shelf loudspeakers on beer budget. I used online crossover calculators to derive the filter network. They didn't turn out too badly, but they weren't great either.

Second, it sounds to me like you're attempting a design of your own. That's probably the best way to learn about DIY loudspeakers. If that is your inclination, I highly recommend you borrow or buy a copy of Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook; particularly if you want to know how to optimise a DIY design and understand how the various T/S parameters work together.

Third, you might get addicted and this may not be your only DIY loudspeaker. You will be encouraged by your first results, but I can almost assure you that you'll want better. If that turns out to be the case, don't expect DIY loudspeakers to save you money. Instead, it will be a fantastic learning experience that you will find expensive, challenging but enjoyable and rewarding in equal measure.

Take your time, think things through, exercise great care with power-tools such as a router, and don't be afraid to ask for advice if you're stuck on what to do. Good luck!
 
There are a couple of variants of the Devore Oseries clones on diyaudio if you haven't seen them and Seas' own version with the bit T35 tweeter:


I think it's a great start point for a DIY, relatively simple cabinet, very simple crossover and easy to tweak to experiment and see how changes affect things. I would suggest a 4 wire speaker terminal plate and look to trial the crossover component outside the box until you settle on a design.
 
James said:
That would be the original polyurethane Gorilla glue. Horrid stuff to use, but super-strong bonds.
Click to expand...
That's the stuff James. I used it to glue the hardwood baffles into MDF backing and the hardwood still split down its board joint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top