advertisement


LP12 Refurbishment - do I need a new top plate.

seyles

seyles

Retired Child
I want to give my LP12 a light refurbishment; I have a new(er) cirkus bearing, sub-platter and sub-chassis along to replace the existing white lined bearing etc.

I need some advice re the top plate; should I get a replacement for the existing as it dips on the arm board side by about 3mm as below:

IMG-8072.jpg


I also need some suggestion with regard to refinishing the plinth where the lid bumps have worked away the top (lacquer?) as below:

IMG-8074.jpg


Should it be sanded down or a stripper used?
The rest of the plinth is in good condition and is fluted so sanding and stripping the sides would be a bit of a chore.
Ideally I'd like to just clean up the top edge and then match it back to the sides.

The plinth is supposed to be walnut, which is what I paid Studio 99 to fit in around 1990, but I think it's more likely an afromosia plinth, although it's quite light and matches some teak I have.

Thanks in advance.

Steve
 
The top-plate is supposed to dip on that side. Maybe not quite as much as that but it's fine.

Get some clear danish oil and wipe the plinth with it. Should take care of the wear patches.
 
The sheet metal is too thin. But maybe the sound changed after the replacement. Who knows better or worse.
 
Another problem with a bowed-by-design top plate is the three suspension bolts need to be bent so they are parallel and vertical. Otherwise, good luck with getting a pistonic bounce. There are some after-market top plate that are flat and far stiffer than the steel original.
 
That's the earlier type top plate but not the earliest which was thicker, the later one is pre bent so it has 2 dips across it not one large one and as a consequence the deck is easier to set up.
 
It's is designed to be curved
There is various videos on YouTube about "reforming" an incorrectly curved one
You also have to make sure the bolts are "adjusted " until they are vertical when the curved plate is fitted..to allow the sub chassis to move correctly

If all this seems too much of a faff (it is) then fit an aftermarket aluminium top plate which is flat...it makes the whole set-up process so easy..

The one I used (when I was still an lp12 slave) was the TP Khan

I honestly found this to be the single biggest improvement I made to the old fruit box
 
Thanks for all your replies, I'm not looking at spending a lot to get this looking better, so a Khan at £800 is way out of my price range; at that sort of outlay I'd rather replace the whole thing for a Gyrodec (always licked the looks and to be honest vinyl is very much a secondary source for me).

If I was to get a new top plate, it would be a 2nd hand one, or something like a Vinyl Passion 2mm one for £125.

With regards to the bounce and the spring bolts not being perpendicular, I'm going to give the mushrooms a go as setting up will be much easier.
 
I have a thick stainless steel top plate here I got with a bunch of other stuff I bought. I reckon it's about twice as thick as a standard top plate. Know nothing about it, not going to use it. Anyone who wants it can have it cheap.
 
On the matter of dents/marks on plinth caused by lid, I think @Mr Pig is right about just a touch of oil - sanding/stripping would be a bit of a faff: where would you stop? Or do you intend to do the whole plinth?

i have a black plinth and stuck a very small black “bump on” on each corner, again less work than replacing the bumpers on the lid itself (something which i had done before, but needed replacing again after a few years).
Perhaps, clear “bump ons” would look ok on wood finish?
 
I think I will use the oil as Mr Pig suggested, at most I would just strip the top (masking the sides) and oil the top, working in with fine wire wool.
I'm can't see me trying to sand it down, as you say, where do you stop and it would probably look like a dogs dinner, if it wasn't fluted maybe I'd be braver.
 
This is a revelation to me.

My top plate was bent back in 1992 when I had an LP12.

For decades I had thought it was because Linn dealers were too heavy handed.

They had a reputation for tightening up the nuts with a monkey wrench😳!
 
Just get yourself something easy to set up with a properly thought out hung suspension - maybe a nice finish Systemdek 11X or 11X900 and put an acrylic platter on it.
If you don't play vinyl much then there is not much point on paying too much for a replacement.
 
seyles said:
I think I will use the oil as Mr Pig suggested, at most I would just strip the top (masking the sides) and oil the top, working in with fine wire wool.
I'm can't see me trying to sand it down, as you say, where do you stop and it would probably look like a dogs dinner, if it wasn't fluted maybe I'd be braver.
Click to expand...
You shouldn't have to touch the rest of the plinth. Just give it a wipe with a damp cloth and when dry, a lick with the oil. Should be all it needs.
 
The linn supplied plinths are lacquered/varnished and to bring out the colour of the timber its not clear but usually a golden colour like golden pine.
 
seyles said:
Thanks for all your replies, I'm not looking at spending a lot to get this looking better, so a Khan at £800 is way out of my price range; at that sort of outlay I'd rather replace the whole thing for a Gyrodec (always licked the looks and to be honest vinyl is very much a secondary source for me).
Click to expand...

Maybe that's a good idea (replace with a Gyrodec)? 😮

seyles said:
With regards to the bounce and the spring bolts not being perpendicular, I'm going to give the mushrooms a go as setting up will be much easier.
Click to expand...

I use the 'mushrooms'. 👍

They make life much simpler - as well sounding good!

The downside is ... you may have to put an isolation platform under your mushroomed LP12. Which is easily - and cheaply - done!
 
I had a couple of hours free yesterday, so I took it to bits and put it back together with the Cirkus bearing and the Tacia Mushrooms from RS.
Setting the height was really simple, no bounce or arm dressing to worry about; I used M5 thumb screws that made it even easier.

IMG_8092.jpg


I had a quick listen last night and was quite shocked in the improvement it clarity and imaging; especially vocals, they just sit there between the 'speakers now. I get the bass bloom comments now it seems to have gone.

Changes where Cirkus bearing, sub-platter and sub-chassis, new arm board and the mushrooms, the removed parts where white liner bearing, sub-platter and bonded type sub-chassis, older laminated arm board and 'nirvana' springs and grommets.

Taking it apart, lots of the parts where Linn tight, the old laminated arm board has indents where the arm collar and arm rest was fitted; I put it back together with a bit more mechanical sympathy, tight enough.


IMG_8094.jpg


It's just plonked down on an old TV unit, with a thin magazine under the right hand side to make it level...

It has a trampolin 2, which worked better than no base in the old set up on the same TV unit.

Started looking into cartridges now, vinyl may be making a comeback in my system..!

I didn't do anything to the top plate or the plinth, I will probably take it to bits again and change the mains cable and the tone arm cable, but that may be some time as I want to listen to a few more records.

Thanks for all of your replies.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top