Light Meter
- Thread starter garyi
- Start date
vuk
\o/ choose anarchy
igary.
my theory is that you've murdered mick parry and are slowly introducing into the world objects you've stolen from the estate.
vuk.
p.s. how the thing works should be self evident. if you still can't figure it out, you will need to show me a bigger (more detailed) picture. one nortant thing, you measure the light hitting the subject, so the opposite to what yo'de do with a reflected light meter (in camera).
my theory is that you've murdered mick parry and are slowly introducing into the world objects you've stolen from the estate.
vuk.
p.s. how the thing works should be self evident. if you still can't figure it out, you will need to show me a bigger (more detailed) picture. one nortant thing, you measure the light hitting the subject, so the opposite to what yo'de do with a reflected light meter (in camera).
RichardH
Bodging pleb
Very similar to the light meter I grew up with. IIRC, the slide round case is translucent white plastic, and when slid round to cover the sensor, you can point it at the light source to get the incident light reading (i.e. as vuk says, the light hitting the subject). With the sensor fully exposed, you can get reflected light readings.
There is a dial on the side to set the film speed, then point the meter in the right direction, and read off a set of possible aperture/speed combinations. Long time since I used one, so can't quite recall the detailed method.
There is a dial on the side to set the film speed, then point the meter in the right direction, and read off a set of possible aperture/speed combinations. Long time since I used one, so can't quite recall the detailed method.
SeanyP
pfm Member
Here's a quick guide:
1) Set the ASA settings to match those on your camera.
2) With the translucent cover over the sensor you can take a reading of the light hitting the subject (useful for still life/portraits). To do this, hold the meter near the subject and point the sensor towards the lens of the camera.
3) With the sensor exposed you can take a reading of the whole scene (useful for general photography/landscapes etc where you can't get near the subject). Point the sensor in the same direction as the camera is pointing, and make sure that the vertical angle of the meter is similar to that of the camera otherwise you'll meter too much or too little sky.
4) Remember that a light meter is calibrated to a single mid tone (18% grey) which means that anything you point it at will end up as a mid tone. If you want to make any aspect of the image lighter or darker you'll need to compensate. Example: If you meter a snowy scene and take a picture at the recommended meter settings the result will look mushy & grey. You need to over expose the picture to get it looking crisp and white. Reverse this if you want to get the dark bits looking right.
5) Buy a book called 'The Practical Zone System' (Focal Press). It's a revelation
1) Set the ASA settings to match those on your camera.
2) With the translucent cover over the sensor you can take a reading of the light hitting the subject (useful for still life/portraits). To do this, hold the meter near the subject and point the sensor towards the lens of the camera.
3) With the sensor exposed you can take a reading of the whole scene (useful for general photography/landscapes etc where you can't get near the subject). Point the sensor in the same direction as the camera is pointing, and make sure that the vertical angle of the meter is similar to that of the camera otherwise you'll meter too much or too little sky.
4) Remember that a light meter is calibrated to a single mid tone (18% grey) which means that anything you point it at will end up as a mid tone. If you want to make any aspect of the image lighter or darker you'll need to compensate. Example: If you meter a snowy scene and take a picture at the recommended meter settings the result will look mushy & grey. You need to over expose the picture to get it looking crisp and white. Reverse this if you want to get the dark bits looking right.
5) Buy a book called 'The Practical Zone System' (Focal Press). It's a revelation
messengerman
pfm Member
I once watched a pro photographer dick about for ages with a giant hand held light meter. But when he finally started taking the shots I noticed his camera was set on aperture priority. He obviously just used it for a bit of theatre and to big himself up.
messengerman
pfm Member
widely accepted
Derek Wright
pfm Member
Derek Wright
pfm Member
Whether you use an off camera meter or an inbuilt meter is surely not to critical as long as whatever you do you do in a consistant manner.
If you chose to always point the camera at a grey card to get the light reading and then adjusted the setting by an offset that you know to give you the result you want then you have an incident light measuring process.
Some people use a grass lawn/field (if available ) as the equivalent to an 18% grey card.
If you chose to always point the camera at a grey card to get the light reading and then adjusted the setting by an offset that you know to give you the result you want then you have an incident light measuring process.
Some people use a grass lawn/field (if available ) as the equivalent to an 18% grey card.
SeanyP
pfm Member
Derek - another alternative to metering grass is to take a quick reading with the back of your hand. Caucasian skin tends to be approximately mid grey.
Michael - I wouldn't dream of spending hours dicking around with a light meter. I just take a reading before I start taking pictures then adjust for the prevailing light conditions. Unless there's a radical change (+/- 3 stops of light) or you're suddenly confronted with a high contrast scene, then experience can give you good results every time. I don't think that the meters built into modern cameras are particularly better. Yes, they can give you a 'good histogram' in most cases, but they don't know what the photographer is trying to achieve in each picture. And after all, they're still calibrated to 18% grey, just like the £1 car boot special pictured above.
Michael - I wouldn't dream of spending hours dicking around with a light meter. I just take a reading before I start taking pictures then adjust for the prevailing light conditions. Unless there's a radical change (+/- 3 stops of light) or you're suddenly confronted with a high contrast scene, then experience can give you good results every time. I don't think that the meters built into modern cameras are particularly better. Yes, they can give you a 'good histogram' in most cases, but they don't know what the photographer is trying to achieve in each picture. And after all, they're still calibrated to 18% grey, just like the £1 car boot special pictured above.
kasperhauser
pfm Member
That's a beautiful object.
vuk
\o/ choose anarchy
some people here don't seem to understand the difference between an incident light meter and a reflected light meter.
in-camera metering is not only inaccurate but also less convenient for those who know what they are doing.
igary.
1) have the light source hit your meter
2) look at where the needle is pointing to
3) turn that dial so you have the number you got in step #2 showing (right now that number is 12 with an arrow pointing to its left)
4) corresponding shutter speeds (top) and apertures (middle) will be lined up
5) ignore the bottom row
--right now, with a reading of 12 units of light, you can shoot at:
f/8 - 1/500
f/11 - 1/250
f/16 - 1/100 (or 1/125 really)
etc.
eventually, you will simply need to read the intensity of light and figure it out in your head. even better, you will be able to assess light without the meter. in-camera metering never tells you what the light intensity is: it's like a wrist watch that informs you about how many minutes you've got until the next meeting but never tells you at what time it actually is.
vuk.
in-camera metering is not only inaccurate but also less convenient for those who know what they are doing.
igary.
1) have the light source hit your meter
2) look at where the needle is pointing to
3) turn that dial so you have the number you got in step #2 showing (right now that number is 12 with an arrow pointing to its left)
4) corresponding shutter speeds (top) and apertures (middle) will be lined up
5) ignore the bottom row
--right now, with a reading of 12 units of light, you can shoot at:
f/8 - 1/500
f/11 - 1/250
f/16 - 1/100 (or 1/125 really)
etc.
eventually, you will simply need to read the intensity of light and figure it out in your head. even better, you will be able to assess light without the meter. in-camera metering never tells you what the light intensity is: it's like a wrist watch that informs you about how many minutes you've got until the next meeting but never tells you at what time it actually is.
vuk.
vuk
\o/ choose anarchy
given where 12 is on the scale, i assume that the thing is set for ISO100. not sure if you can change it, but even if you can't the math is easy.
EDIT: yes you can change the ISO. that's the silver dial.
one more thing, the device may not be particualrly good, so don't shoot anything important without testing it. i'm also starting to suspect it may be a reflected light meter, in which case you should simple use it as an ornament.
vuk.
EDIT: yes you can change the ISO. that's the silver dial.
one more thing, the device may not be particualrly good, so don't shoot anything important without testing it. i'm also starting to suspect it may be a reflected light meter, in which case you should simple use it as an ornament.
vuk.
garyi
leave blank
Hi Vuk.
I think MOusey suggested but I misunderstood, anyhow I have discovered the dial on the side is infact two dials. The middle one I assume for setting ASA. Is this ISO?
Interestingly there is a small metal plate on the other side which I discovered springs open to reveal a little chart of orange colours marked ABCDEF
Its actually a very nicely made thing, even though I am still utterly confused. I am going to read vuks post again.
I think MOusey suggested but I misunderstood, anyhow I have discovered the dial on the side is infact two dials. The middle one I assume for setting ASA. Is this ISO?
Interestingly there is a small metal plate on the other side which I discovered springs open to reveal a little chart of orange colours marked ABCDEF
Its actually a very nicely made thing, even though I am still utterly confused. I am going to read vuks post again.
Joe P
Memory Alpha incarnate | mod; Shatner number = 2
Gary,
Light meters are simple to use. Just follow Vuk's instructions, but in short, the light that falls on your subject is the light you should be measuring, so here are the essential steps to follow --
* Set the meter's ISO/ASA thingy to whatever your camera is set to.
* Take a meter reading.
* Set the camera to one of the aperture and shutter speed combinations the meter recommends.
* Take a pic.
* Post comments on various fora about your new-found incident light meter technique, and be sure to remind all that anyone who uses an internal meter is a ****er.
Joe
Light meters are simple to use. Just follow Vuk's instructions, but in short, the light that falls on your subject is the light you should be measuring, so here are the essential steps to follow --
* Set the meter's ISO/ASA thingy to whatever your camera is set to.
* Take a meter reading.
* Set the camera to one of the aperture and shutter speed combinations the meter recommends.
* Take a pic.
* Post comments on various fora about your new-found incident light meter technique, and be sure to remind all that anyone who uses an internal meter is a ****er.
Joe