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isobarik basics

C

colinegreen

pfm Member
Hi flat earth!

I am contemplating purchasing a relatively cheap ($400) pair of Isobariks from Ebay.

They appear to be the models, with a single xlr type connector on the back. The stands offered do not have crossovers in them, so I assume they are inside...

I know there is a specific naim crossover for these speakers, and that there is something called "split briks" which involves multiple amps for different drivers, but not the same as "active" (one amp per driver).

Can someone please explain all the options? If the internal crossover is to be bypassed, how is this done? is it possible / easy to open the cabinets up and change the wiring?

Thanks -

Colin
 
IMHO, 'briks are one of the great bargains in hi-fi. Here's a wealth of info on them:
http://www.mickandviv.com/isobarik-faq/index.htm
http://www.mickandviv.com/pfm/pfm1diypages/212.htm

'briks are awesome if properly powered. I think the option you're wondering about is called "split 'briks" where you run one stereo amp on each 'brik. Each 'brik contains 2 crossovers which each support HF, MF, and LF drivers, so one amp channel drives one crossover. Short of going active, this is a great way to go, with excellent imaging.

Good luck.
 
The later ones, accessible X/O's, can be tri-amped, a Linn specialty.

The Naim crossover is an active electronic box called a NAXO 3-6, inserted between preamp and 3 x power amps.

Your Briks have two passive crossovers (one per set of drivers) located in the Isobarik chamber separating the inner and outer bass drivers. Access is by removing the outer driver, which requires a certain technique.

To convert them to active you need to remove the inner bass unit as well (more difficult) and fit additional terminals to the rear panel.

I have done this exercise and replaced the wiring while I was at it.

It's a fairly major job, the Isobarik construction being what it is, but absolutely worth it.
 
Hi all, it`s my first post.
i have a linn sara i was not using as i did not like the sound,even trying to change the tweeter. after looking at many speakers i got an idea of using only the bass,i remove one bass big work indeed and look crefully but i did not want to go any further as i did not have any guide,so i disconnect the tweter and use only the bass with an onkio two way small speaber bi amp,oh! waht a sound,i will proceed using a recent buy of a 4x 100w digital amp,
i have also an dbx activecrossover that will be use soon,
god bless
abes
 
The bass driver is a KEF B109 and they come up on ebay all the time as they were used in quite a lot of speakers. I have seen one pair of Isobariks with Linn Keltiks bass units. Apparently the Linn Isobarik/Keltik designer thought they sounded better. I would expect that these could only be used in Aktiv briks as they would most likely need the bass level adjusted in the Akitv crossover.

CJ
 
keltik drivers go lower and are lighter. they handle more power.

a friend has some in one of his pairs of bariks and they sound great.

i wont be swapping my b139's however.


rod crawford designed the keltik/kaber/keilidh.

it was martin dalgleish that designed the isobarik
 
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