DSLR 35mm Film Scanning

[Hoopsontoast]

I'm looking to put together a basic DSLR scanning kit, initially using my Pentax K-01 (as its spare in the cupboard) with a 50mm Macro Lens as I've been frustrated with the time it takes with the Plustek 8100, as well as the slow sofware and output in general. I have the K-1 I can use but might be a pain to mount/dismount, or just use for high res/pixel shift scans of certain frames over the K-01 if required.

From research and elsewhere, I have found a couple of all-in-one options:

35mm Basic DSLR Film Scanner Kit

35mm Basic DSLR Film Scanner Kit Please read all the info on this page before purchasing this kit. 35mm is our bestselling film format thanks to its ease and wide range of available films. Whether it’s a day at the beach, a photo walk around your neighborhood or photographing a holiday event...

filmphotographystore.com

easy35 | Valoi

www.valoi.co

On the software side, I have Lightroom but its only 4.4 so not compatiable with Negative Lab Pro and I don't really want to plunge for a new subscription of Lightroom Cloud/Classic. I've seen Affinity Photo recommended on the other thread but the negative conversion would be a manual process each time rather than a plugin.

Anybody got experience of other non-Lightroom/NLP software for 35mm processing?

 

[Mr Perceptive]

There are a multitude of products out there to hold negatives at varying price points. My experinece is that I've had better results using a camera than a my Epson Scanner for 35mm, but the Epson performs well on 120 film. I have no experinec of the Valoi kit, but given that it includes a basic copy stand and a light it looks reasonable value for money. A spirit level is useful for checking that teh camera is mounted square.

What I would say is that for a camera solution to be effective, you need to manual focus, and be able to see a magnified view of a section of the negative, so focussing can be precise - the negative also needs to be held flat (and 35mm loves to curl!)

Dust management is also key.

I'm a Lightroom/NLP user so can't comment on other solutions. NLP is very good though, but takes some playing with the settings to get consistent scans that you are happy with.

 

[Gromit]

I'm a Lightroom/NLP user so can't comment on other solutions. NLP is very good though, but takes some playing with the settings to get consistent scans that you are happy with.

+1 on NLP, it's a fine piece of software and very adaptable.

 

[Hoopsontoast]

As I say, I've seen good things about NLP but I don't really want to have to pay for a new subscription with Lightroom on top of the purchase price for NLP.

 

[MartinC]

Totally agree that dedicated film scanners are tediously slow, I have a Nikonscan 9000 and gave up on scanning 35mm with it. Nikon sell an inexpensive kit that attaches to a macro lens, which eliminates the need for a sturdy stand as the film carrier is attached to the lens.

I think you may be able to find third party versions that would attach to your lens. I use a white sheet and a flash on the camera and it works well as the light source. I found that as long as you have sufficient ambient light or use a supplemental daylight balanced source the autofocus on the macro lens works fine.

 

[cctaylor]

Totally agree that dedicated film scanners are tediously slow, I have a Nikonscan 9000 and gave up on scanning 35mm with it. Nikon sell an inexpensive kit that attaches to a macro lens, which eliminates the need for a sturdy stand as the film carrier is attached to the lens.

I think you may be able to find third party versions that would attach to your lens. I use a white sheet and a flash on the camera and it works well as the light source. I found that as long as you have sufficient ambient light or use a supplemental daylight balanced source the autofocus on the macro lens works fine.

I've managed to use the same setup with my Panasonic G9 and Olympus 30mm Macro lens. Obviously needed a different adapter to fit the lens thread and a short spacer ring. Only done a few slides so far but auto focus was pretty good.

I use a cheap copy stand and a LED panel as my light source to give consistent lighting. I have the Lumix app on my laptop and use the app to trigger the shutter.

 

[idomybest]

If you want fast digital files of 35mm you can use an old enlarger - (I use a LPL 6700 and invert the head 180 degrees - please note I may have been lucky and this would not be possible with some other enlargers) and a mirrorless camera, make an adaptor tube to fit the camera to the enlarging lens and the enlarging head and you are all set. Set the camera to manual, focus the image with the enlarger rack and pinion and click away using the enlargers neg carriers to quickly move to the next frame....once the focus is set it doesn't change much - I use a loop for critical focus on the camera screen.
Takes a fraction of a second and produces raw files that you can digitally develop to your requirements. (You can also use the enlarger for enlarging should you get the urge!)

I have quoted myself from a thread a few years ago, the thread may be useful to you.

If you want fast digital files of 35mm you can use an old enlarger - (I use a LPL 6700 and invert the head 180 degrees - please note I may have been lucky and this would not be possible with some other enlargers) and a mirrorless camera (also my d3200 as well now), make an adaptor tube to fit the camera to the enlarging lens and the enlarging head and you are all set. Set the camera to manual, focus the image with the enlarger rack and pinion and click away using the enlargers neg carriers to quickly move to the next frame....once the focus is set it doesn't change much - I use a loop for critical focus on the camera screen.
Takes a fraction of a second and produces raw files that you can digitally develop to your requirements. (You can also use the enlarger for enlarging should you get the urge!)