Caps for NAP140, HiCap, NAC72 recap
- Thread starter booja30
- Start date
Gervais Cote
Predator
Yeah, remember this one..........Not under the can, but inside it. 10uF 50V Rubycon...
Requires a lot of dismantling but feasible if patience is your thing.
@MJS: I posted a pic of the cap I was talking about. Did you mean to say that it’s not worth replacing? Or were you saying there’s nothing on the main PCB under the PCB in the can? Or did I totally misunderstand?
The little one in the can seems doable considering the main board has to be separated from the sled anyway. There’s just a few soldered links at one end of the can connecting the main and daughter boards.
MJS
Technical Tinkerer
I meant there is nothing on the PCB under the can.
Unless the can is faulty I wouldn't touch it. The can is soldered to the PCB as well and that requires a lot of heat to remove. If the links aren't properly desoldered you can rip the pads off the can. Then we always re-aligned it before re-fitting. It is not worth the trouble.
Unless the can is faulty I wouldn't touch it. The can is soldered to the PCB as well and that requires a lot of heat to remove. If the links aren't properly desoldered you can rip the pads off the can. Then we always re-aligned it before re-fitting. It is not worth the trouble.
337alant
Negatively Biased
I'm not familiar with the amps and where the caps are placed in the circuits, but having serviced quite a few Revox R2R which also use a lot of Tantalums in the audio boards and have a specific pacey sound, the norm is to replace them with electrolytics but it can affect the signature particularly the caps in the signal path.
I have fount that replacing the signal path tantalum caps with Nichcon ES bipolar caps actually has a very similar sound, with less distortion, could be worth a try
Alan
I have fount that replacing the signal path tantalum caps with Nichcon ES bipolar caps actually has a very similar sound, with less distortion, could be worth a try
Alan
I stuck with tantalums and whatever else I could see that Naim uses from browsing photos on the Naim forum. If I was keeping it I’d consider using electrolytics instead of tants. The way our place smelled after the one tant in the NAT02 burned up was enough to convince me to avoid them from now on. But I stuck close to the parts Naim use for servicing in order to not disappoint potential buyers.
337alant
Negatively Biased
digestive
pfm Member
Something about this article triggered a worry bead about my own NAP140 recap, that I carried out in 2015 (I think). Opening the amp up I can see I replaced the 10UF 35V tantalums with Kemets (manufacturing date code 2014) on the NAPA boards, but it looks like I left the red 47UF 6V Tants and the two blue 10UF 35V tants on the NAPS 140/1 board – probably meaning to go back at a later date to complete – but, as so often, got caught up in family life and forgot. Could someone confirm that these values are correct?
2x 10uF 35V is what I have in my notes for the PSU board.
For each amp board I have 3x 10uF 35V and 2x 47uF 6.3V.
I think our colors were different because my 10uF 35V were red on the amp boards and blue on the PSU board. My 47uF 6.3V were yellow. Probably depends on what was cheapest/available when they were serviced.
I used all AVX tants for my project because Kemet tants are ridiculously expensive at the moment.