Best Banana Plugs?

[foxwelljsly]

I usually use binding posts, but a requirement to switch speakers between two rooms off the one power amp and the fact that the binding posts on one set of speakers are rubbish, means I need some banana plugs.

There seem to be several kinds, does anyone have an opinion as to which are most robust and provide the best contact?

I am currently erring towards some of these.

 

[JimmyB]

Those will do fine although the grub screw can be a bit rubbish sometimes. The Michel ones don't do anything different but I find them easier to use and CPC do a cheaper version here:

https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/...-ulRTFWLy39Ei1gh6YF38RiMNlx8mpbRoCREoQAvD_BwE

https://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/bp-150/plugs-speaker-4mm-gold-red-blk/dp/AV11779

 

[ABCaudio]

We've tried a lot of different plugs in the last few months, nothing actually beats a good quality soldered connection into a decent, low mass plug. We like the 'Z plug' because of the excellent contact it makes. Be sure to get one based on Berrylium copper.

This isn't our supplier, but illustrates the idea: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=302625771305

 

[mikemusic]

Z plugs best
Usually nice and cheap on Ebay

 

[foxwelljsly]

Z plugs best
Usually nice and cheap on Ebay

I've got a big bag of Z-Plugs I bought for a Linn Aktiv System. They do not fit standard 4mm sockets.

 

[ABCaudio]

I'm not sure what plugs you have, but we have built hundreds of cables with Z-plugs. They are tight, deliberately, and are designed for 4mm sockets (originally for test equipment).

Sorry we couldn't be more helpful.

 

[foxwelljsly]

I'm not sure what plugs you have, but we have built hundreds of cables with Z-plugs. They are tight, deliberately, and are designed for 4mm sockets (originally for test equipment).

Sorry we couldn't be more helpful.

No, I'm sorry. I bought mine to use in Linn Power amps, in place of the unobtanium bullet connectors they were designed to be used with - this spreads them so they no longer fit. I've just checked and the new ones I've got are fine. Doh.

 

[hifinutt]

wbt are the best imho . they last for years
https://www.futureshop.co.uk/wbt-06...-XwKD0Kc6XTCF6_U28AFE6X9vRgfuaTBoCy80QAvD_BwE

 

[Chefren]

I'm not sure what plugs you have, but we have built hundreds of cables with Z-plugs. They are tight, deliberately, and are designed for 4mm sockets (originally for test equipment).

Sorry we couldn't be more helpful.

I think the Z-plugs also fit the inverted BFA connectors which then go inside the Z-plug rather that connect from the outside? It's a really clever and simple design as long as one can do the soldering.

 

[Seanm]

Can I ask for some advice on the best way of soldering z-plugs?

 

[Arkless Electronics]

As long as it's tight and makes a good contact a plugs a plug. Soldering is way better than nasty grub screws etc.
A powerful iron makes it rather easier. 50W +. Such an iron is no good for working on PCB's etc.

 

[Marchbanks]

Amazon Basics here. Job done for under a quid each. No grub screw, no soldering.

 

[Martyn Miles]

I always use Neutrik ones.
Not expensive, but do the job perfectly.

Neutrik produce some of the best pro. connectors ( I use them ) and
they don’t endorse silly Hi-Fi notions.

 

[say it as it is]

last lot of non soldered plugs I used were Nakimichi seemed to work fine and cheap as chips

 

[Fire99]

I use Wireworld’s gold 10 gage- once they are in its next to impossible to pull out. A very snug fit and affordable.

 

[Yank]

Pomona:

They make singles too if your equipment isn't compatible with industry standard spacing.

Oddly, while the Pomona was the classic plug, the classic dual banana jack was from H. H. Smith:

Smith's plugs and Pomona's jacks were naff.

 

[chartz]

I use industrial banana plugs, the same I use for measuring and testing stuff. All soldered.
What else would you ever need?
Certainly not those fake gold contraptions all made in China.
Buy real Deltron plugs, not fake golden Chinese ones.

 

[cj66]

Another user of Z-plugs here, they're just a simple, logical design that has a greater contact area with the socket than many other designs without a nutty price tag.

 

[Mr Pig]

Z-Plugs. I buy mine from this guy: LINK

These were originally an RS Components part and came with a stackable plastic body. This seller is cheaper than RS and gives you just the part you need without the body.

I first tried these twenty-odd years ago. I was using Naim plugs, I spotted these plugs in the RS catalog and I realized that the blade was identical to the one seen on the plugs of lots of Hi-End Hi-Fi speaker cables. They put a fancy metal body on the back to hide the humble origins but it was clearly the same blade. So I popped into RS and bought some, used them ever since.

The easiest way I've found to fit them is to crimp the back of the plug into the cable. The metal is thin so you can just use pliers. This holds the plug on while you solder it. Tinning the cable first helps but you don't need to.

There is a little tab sticking out the side of the plug which you can either snap off or just fold against the plug. Then red or black heat shrink to tidy it up.

 

[mountain biker]

I use Z type, if they do become loose its easy to open them out with a small screwdriver.